shagino

iTrader: (57)

Ooh. That's going to be a stretch. I run 69/33. You'd need like a 37 pinion or something. No idea if it'd even fit. What pinions do you have?

cripplethreat

iTrader: (6)

I've got 25-29.. I guess I could get the 75t durango spur if I must?

shagino

iTrader: (57)

You could but you'd still be a bit under geared. How long is it going to be until you have the triad? Does your track run blinky? You could probably add boost to make up fit it but I don't think that's a good idea.

vr6cj

iTrader: (124)

any of you guys use the alum axles for stock racing? Are they alot lighter?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...um-CVD-Axles-2

platgof

iTrader: (4)

Slapped a 13.5 in this for an indoor track and this thing came alive. I am running the rear shocks and also added a sheet of lead under the battery. I might do the tapered piston mod on it next.

madweazl

iTrader: (12)

Working on the rear end of this car is the biggest pain in the butt. I want to like it but much like the 410, I hate working on it. Car ran pretty good on track with initial setup and the changes I've made should have it pretty much dialed in but it just isnt worth the hassle.

ewashburnaf

iTrader: (14)

agreed!!

dolfns1

I've broken 2 of the stock plate. Lots of options out there. Any recommendations preferred plate. Thanks

shagino

iTrader: (57)

Upgrade to the aluminum. There's a few CF choices out there but it's pretty much bling.

TD makes the cheapest one. RDRP/Tresrey/Exotek all have options.

fivepointnine

iTrader: (15)

just wanted to know if this is "normal" just got my 210 put together, 17.5 D3 and a Novak club spec speedo, anyway I broke in my diff the normal way (part throttle holding a tire both sides, then re-adjusted till no more bark when stabbing the throttle) but my diff seems "heavy" is this normal? I mean it is butter smooth but you have to hold the slipper adjustment shaft to get the tires to spin opposite and it takes a little effort. Its been probably 10 years since I had an offroad buggy so Im a little rusty here lol.

also does anyone else have drivetrain binding at full rear droop? I had to dial out a bit of droop to eliminate it.

RC10Nick

iTrader: (9)

My drivetrain would bind at full droop. Unfortunately I never noticed it until it ruined my diff outdrive. Now I have the gold coated rear shock shafts which are shorter so even at full droop it doesn't bind.

madweazl

iTrader: (12)

If the diff is too tight, loosen it up a bit. And in the future, dont tighten the bark out of it, once it slips, damage has already been done. Start tight and back off until it's where you want it.

CVDs on my car bind at full drop as well. I'm going with internal limiters.

adam lancia

iTrader: (2)

Brushless motors don't have enough drag the way brushed motors do to get the diff to function without holding the slipper shaft...

Jason

iTrader: (8)

I read somewhere about flipping the rear arms and mounting the shocks on the backside of the shock tower. What is being accomplished with doing that? Also, is there a running list somewhere of all the mods people are doing to the car. Thanks

fivepointnine

iTrader: (15)

yeah its sorta what I figured...next challenge is to remember how to set my slipper properly lol.