80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
06-08-2013, 06:48 AM
Also of note- the new chassis requires use of a new motor guard which has a tongue that slides into a groove in a new design RR pivot. And on both the RF and RR pivots, the pivot balls have been eliminated- no more tearing arms out of the RF pivots.
06-08-2013, 08:28 AM
Are the new front bulkhead and rear motor guard the only required pieces to run the new chassis?
06-08-2013, 09:11 AM
Yes, the front bulkhead comes with the new style plastic RF and RR pivots. Existing aluminum RF pivots will still work just fine. And if you want the added strength of an aluminum RR pivot still, they have also released a new one that works with the new chassis/motor guard setup.
06-08-2013, 09:41 AM
Thanks!
06-08-2013, 09:56 AM
Tech Legend
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If it's not fully together, do the bfast break in.
B-FAST R/C PERFORMANCE
Differential Break-In Procedure
1) Clean all parts and work area
2) Follow owner’s manual for assembly instructions
3) Lightly Coat Diff Balls with B-Fast Pro Diff lube, thoroughly lube Thrust Bearing with
B-Fast Pro Thrust grease. (or equivalent)
4) Snug diff screw just until gear will not turn while outdrives are held.
5) Hold one outdrive from spinning, a hex wrench that fits into the outdrive slot, clamped to your bench or in a vise works good.
6) Use a power drill or Dremel (the cone shaped cotton polishing tip works great) to spin the diff for about 20 seconds (HIGH rpm on drill, LOW on Dremel). Reverse rotation for another 20 seconds.
7) Tighten diff screw about 1/16 of a turn and repeat step 6
8) Repeat step 7 at least two more times.
Follow owner’s manual to set slipper
Slipper should slip BEFORE the diff
Do Not let the Diff Slip at anytime!!
B-FAST R/C PERFORMANCE
Differential Break-In Procedure
1) Clean all parts and work area
2) Follow owner’s manual for assembly instructions
3) Lightly Coat Diff Balls with B-Fast Pro Diff lube, thoroughly lube Thrust Bearing with
B-Fast Pro Thrust grease. (or equivalent)
4) Snug diff screw just until gear will not turn while outdrives are held.
5) Hold one outdrive from spinning, a hex wrench that fits into the outdrive slot, clamped to your bench or in a vise works good.
6) Use a power drill or Dremel (the cone shaped cotton polishing tip works great) to spin the diff for about 20 seconds (HIGH rpm on drill, LOW on Dremel). Reverse rotation for another 20 seconds.
7) Tighten diff screw about 1/16 of a turn and repeat step 6
8) Repeat step 7 at least two more times.
Follow owner’s manual to set slipper
Slipper should slip BEFORE the diff
Do Not let the Diff Slip at anytime!!
First experience with Novak since the Hammer brushed ESC but 15 plus years later same freaking results a non working ESC at this time.
If I can't figure this and out and it goes back to Novak I will be even more furious than I am right now. I will shoe horn my MMP in as at least it always works.
06-08-2013, 01:14 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
Car is all done. Right now I had to get a different esc as my standard Castle MMP don't fit so I went with a Novak Impart even though my better judgment told me not to go with Novak and will you guess as of right now I can't get it setup to work. Servo works great, receiver all working bu can't get the new esc to run the motor with a brand new Novak 7.5 so I tried an 8.5 motor I have that I know works an still get the same error code from this damn Novak. I know I should of grabbed a Tekin RS off our shelf at the hobbyshop I work at but thought I would help and take a product that wouldn't move for us and now I'm paying for it. First experience with Novak since the Hammer brushed ESC but 15 plus years later same freaking results a non working ESC at this time. If I can't figure this and out and it goes back to Novak I will be even more furious than I am right now. I will shoe horn my MMP in as at least it always works.
First experience with Novak since the Hammer brushed ESC but 15 plus years later same freaking results a non working ESC at this time. If I can't figure this and out and it goes back to Novak I will be even more furious than I am right now. I will shoe horn my MMP in as at least it always works.
06-08-2013, 02:43 PM
Yes, the front bulkhead comes with the new style plastic RF and RR pivots. Existing aluminum RF pivots will still work just fine. And if you want the added strength of an aluminum RR pivot still, they have also released a new one that works with the new chassis/motor guard setup.
06-08-2013, 02:46 PM
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
06-08-2013, 02:47 PM
06-08-2013, 03:08 PM
So I have a question. I'm still new to ball diffs. I picked up a used dex210 and the guy said the diff was fresh and after I got it he said he wasn't sure to just run it and find out for myself. Well I swapped everything from rm4 to mm4 and put it all together. I tried to get the diff to break in but after starting up the car I kept tighting the diff till I got to the barely forward rotation. Well finnly got it set with the wheels off and the diff screw was way out to get to that point. Was barely tight enough to not be able to hold the axle with my fingers. And as I was doing all thisnote the slipper was about 2 turns from locked. Well as I pur the tires on to do the rotations it seemed like the slipper was really loose BC I set the car on the floor and it diddent move. So I locked the slipper and same thing. So I tighten up the diff and kept trying and finnaly ended up locking the diff and it was slipping itself. Yes I know this is bad. I'm at a loss what could be the issue?
On a side note I first thought it was the wheels bc when I tightend them up to the hub it about locked up. I thought bad bearings so I pulled them but that was not the case. I flipped the hex to the outside and that freed it up. Is there any shimming that's needed? I'm running the alum hexes and Durango alum hubs. Or the nurs supposed to stay lose
On a side note I first thought it was the wheels bc when I tightend them up to the hub it about locked up. I thought bad bearings so I pulled them but that was not the case. I flipped the hex to the outside and that freed it up. Is there any shimming that's needed? I'm running the alum hexes and Durango alum hubs. Or the nurs supposed to stay lose
06-08-2013, 03:32 PM
Do you guys plan to release perhaps a Ver2 dex210 with the new chassis, front, rear RR & FR, & motor guard? Cause seperalty it's around quite a bit more after spending the money on a kit then having to buy this to strengthen things
06-08-2013, 04:15 PM
Well since I can't use my Alum. bling on the new chassis, can anyone running the RDP +11 chassis chime in?
I'd like to know if the +8 body fits and also if there is much of a performance difference over the +8.
I'd like to know if the +8 body fits and also if there is much of a performance difference over the +8.
06-08-2013, 10:16 PM
New rf-rr mounts
Yes, the front bulkhead comes with the new style plastic RF and RR pivots. Existing aluminum RF pivots will still work just fine. And if you want the added strength of an aluminum RR pivot still, they have also released a new one that works with the new chassis/motor guard setup.
Smitty
06-08-2013, 10:36 PM
Yep, stock hingepins without the pivot balls. May need a shim depending on what kickup is used.
06-08-2013, 11:27 PM
So I have a question. I'm still new to ball diffs. I picked up a used dex210 and the guy said the diff was fresh and after I got it he said he wasn't sure to just run it and find out for myself. Well I swapped everything from rm4 to mm4 and put it all together. I tried to get the diff to break in but after starting up the car I kept tighting the diff till I got to the barely forward rotation. Well finnly got it set with the wheels off and the diff screw was way out to get to that point. Was barely tight enough to not be able to hold the axle with my fingers. And as I was doing all thisnote the slipper was about 2 turns from locked. Well as I pur the tires on to do the rotations it seemed like the slipper was really loose BC I set the car on the floor and it diddent move. So I locked the slipper and same thing. So I tighten up the diff and kept trying and finnaly ended up locking the diff and it was slipping itself. Yes I know this is bad. I'm at a loss what could be the issue?
On a side note I first thought it was the wheels bc when I tightend them up to the hub it about locked up. I thought bad bearings so I pulled them but that was not the case. I flipped the hex to the outside and that freed it up. Is there any shimming that's needed? I'm running the alum hexes and Durango alum hubs. Or the nurs supposed to stay lose
On a side note I first thought it was the wheels bc when I tightend them up to the hub it about locked up. I thought bad bearings so I pulled them but that was not the case. I flipped the hex to the outside and that freed it up. Is there any shimming that's needed? I'm running the alum hexes and Durango alum hubs. Or the nurs supposed to stay lose
Hit me up tomorrow, planning on going out to the track.