Durango DEX210 Thread
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
I'm running indoor smooth dirt med traction
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
My track is pretty smooth dirt.. But big jumps.
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
White series light blue. Or just light blue
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
White series. I'm basically running the Randy Pike LSR Speedway "club" setup.. You can find it and many more on petitrc.
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
Thanks guys ill play around with it some.
Hey guys chassis just came back from hard coating. I believe I PM'd everyone that had a deposit. If I missed you please pm me again. I will start shipping out after remaining balance is paid. Thanks again for your patience. I included some pics. The last two are of my +10 with the +8 body. Just elongated the body post holes a bit.
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
Ran the buggy tonight and oh so much better didn't change the piston just the springs ended up light blue front and losi pink rear gonna try to play around with the oil next.
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
Do you guys notice a huge differance with the longer wheelbase?
+1
Just installed the alloy camberlink mount on my 210 in mid motor format. Not Sure if this is how it is suppose to be done but after a bit of dremel work to remove the existing broken link position and a little off the back, it now sits in the exact same position as the original ball stud. please comment if this was the right way to do it or not as i am curious if it is done any other way.
Quick question to the setup guru's. Because it now has 3 inner ballstud positions what would happen to the handling if i was to keep the camber link the same length but move it out 1 hole on the inner and outer camber link positions?
Just installed the alloy camberlink mount on my 210 in mid motor format. Not Sure if this is how it is suppose to be done but after a bit of dremel work to remove the existing broken link position and a little off the back, it now sits in the exact same position as the original ball stud. please comment if this was the right way to do it or not as i am curious if it is done any other way.
Quick question to the setup guru's. Because it now has 3 inner ballstud positions what would happen to the handling if i was to keep the camber link the same length but move it out 1 hole on the inner and outer camber link positions?
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
+1
Just installed the alloy camberlink mount on my 210 in mid motor format. Not Sure if this is how it is suppose to be done but after a bit of dremel work to remove the existing broken link position and a little off the back, it now sits in the exact same position as the original ball stud. please comment if this was the right way to do it or not as i am curious if it is done any other way.
Quick question to the setup guru's. Because it now has 3 inner ballstud positions what would happen to the handling if i was to keep the camber link the same length but move it out 1 hole on the inner and outer camber link positions?
Just installed the alloy camberlink mount on my 210 in mid motor format. Not Sure if this is how it is suppose to be done but after a bit of dremel work to remove the existing broken link position and a little off the back, it now sits in the exact same position as the original ball stud. please comment if this was the right way to do it or not as i am curious if it is done any other way.
Quick question to the setup guru's. Because it now has 3 inner ballstud positions what would happen to the handling if i was to keep the camber link the same length but move it out 1 hole on the inner and outer camber link positions?
3mm under the camber link mount and 3mm under the ball stud(facing downwards) gives the stock location, if I remember correctly
Thanks for the pic! wish I asked for that first, would of saved me some time!
Although I do like the fact the ballstuds are facing up on my method.
Although I do like the fact the ballstuds are facing up on my method.
i have mine rm3 with 2mm under and im at stock with that ballstuds facing up also, a shorter camber link means more gain so the more your camber moves through the up and down motion of the wheel all the way extended you can have 0 degrees and when sitting at ride height it will be 2 and chassis bottomed out 4 it will help for traction in the corners but to much and it wont let the rear break loose and will traction roll easier
Has anyone ran their car in both MM and RM on med. traction clay/topsoil? I run RM4 but wanted the try MM4 with my +10 chassis Thanks for any feedback.....
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
I ran MM4 on slick-mid grip clay and just switched to RM4. MM4 I had a decent setup and positioned best ae 3rd or 4th in 17.5 class. I lost a lot of responsiveness getting enough traction to the rear though, it kept unloading too quickly and required keeping on the gas through turns. Not to say some workup on suspension wouldnt have helped but I figured Id try rear motor before I went crazy to see the difference.
balance is amazing though, even when it breaks free it was very easy to control, just lost time when it did.
balance is amazing though, even when it breaks free it was very easy to control, just lost time when it did.