80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
11-28-2012, 05:43 AM
#8941
DOLFNS1, I have used them all as far as speedos go. The Speed Passion Reventon Pro is by far the smoothest, I have used to date. It will only get better in due time. Also the nicest part is you don't need a extra programming device, it comes in the box. It's a software update box, and a programmer. Also I run a 7.5 in mine. It rocks.
11-28-2012, 05:47 AM
#8942
Tech Initiate
Thanks
Thanks guys for info I'm a rookie at 2wd buggy that's y 10.5 and guys at local track say 10.5 probably best option. Can't wait to get it on the track. Thanks again for help
11-28-2012, 06:10 AM
#8943
Tech Apprentice
Neil
11-28-2012, 07:33 AM
#8944
tekin cust serv!!!
couldnt think of a better group?
i have raced with the owner and family great rc people!
11-28-2012, 09:24 PM
#8947
I noticed the Durango parts did not sit down as far on the eyelets as the 22 parts did, so I switched.
And ya, the Durango parts were not in stock at the time.
11-28-2012, 10:55 PM
#8948
people are still having trouble with popping ball cups thats why some are going to other brands its not because of no stock
its hit and miss really though i have stock cups on my 210 but RPM cups on AE balls on the 410 as i kept popping them but hardly pop any on the 2wd
11-28-2012, 11:12 PM
#8949
here is a brain teasor for you guys and i hope ill be able to get a good answer to fix my problem.
so on my 210 i switched to using 22 turnbuckles,ball studs and cups..
since i have done this my buggy has got alot of toe out at full droop..but when the shocks are compressed i have toe in...to where before when i had the stock stuff on it didnt do this.
is it doing it maybe cuz the 22 studs are a little taller?
want to change out to maybe stock again or maybe even an ae set-up..cuz not only does it drive weird...its not easy setting toe/camber on it.
lmk what ya guys think....thx
so on my 210 i switched to using 22 turnbuckles,ball studs and cups..
since i have done this my buggy has got alot of toe out at full droop..but when the shocks are compressed i have toe in...to where before when i had the stock stuff on it didnt do this.
is it doing it maybe cuz the 22 studs are a little taller?
want to change out to maybe stock again or maybe even an ae set-up..cuz not only does it drive weird...its not easy setting toe/camber on it.
lmk what ya guys think....thx
11-28-2012, 11:38 PM
#8950
Capt.America Steering Mod
That's called bump steer. And yes you are correct it is because the losi studs are taller. The amount of spacers needed to reduce the bumpsteer is different now for you then it was with the stock ball studs. You can try adding spacers to the other ball stud on the hub, or imo do the Capt.America steering mod to remove all bumpsteer from the car.
The original mod from Capt.America was 2mm underneath steering rack pivot arms, 1mm under inner ballstud, 2mm on other ballstud and mount the ackerman plate below instead of uptop. Me personally I went only 1mm under the pivot arms, and 2mm on inner and outer ballstuds. I had no clearance issues on using the regular m3 thin nuts.
If you go this route with the losi ball studs you will only need 1mm on the outer and inner ball studs I think, since there 1mm taller already.
The original mod from Capt.America was 2mm underneath steering rack pivot arms, 1mm under inner ballstud, 2mm on other ballstud and mount the ackerman plate below instead of uptop. Me personally I went only 1mm under the pivot arms, and 2mm on inner and outer ballstuds. I had no clearance issues on using the regular m3 thin nuts.
If you go this route with the losi ball studs you will only need 1mm on the outer and inner ball studs I think, since there 1mm taller already.
Last edited by Azagar; 12-01-2012 at 02:14 AM. Reason: Added photos.
11-29-2012, 01:44 AM
#8951
That's called bump steer. And yes you are correct it is because the losi studs are taller. The amount of spacers needed to reduce the bumpsteer is different now for you then it was with the stock ball studs. You can try adding spacers to the other ball stud on the hub, or imo do the Capt.America steering mod to remove all bumpsteer from the car.
The original mod from Capt.America was 2mm underneath steering rack pivot arms, 1mm under inner ballstud, 2mm on other ballstud and mount the ackerman plate below instead of uptop. Me personally I went only 1mm under the pivot arms, and 2mm on inner and outer ballstuds. I had no clearance issues on using the regular m3 thin nuts.
If you go this route with the losi ball studs you will only need 1mm on the outer and inner ball studs I think, since there 1mm taller already.
The original mod from Capt.America was 2mm underneath steering rack pivot arms, 1mm under inner ballstud, 2mm on other ballstud and mount the ackerman plate below instead of uptop. Me personally I went only 1mm under the pivot arms, and 2mm on inner and outer ballstuds. I had no clearance issues on using the regular m3 thin nuts.
If you go this route with the losi ball studs you will only need 1mm on the outer and inner ball studs I think, since there 1mm taller already.
thx for the info...ill have to see what i can come up with.
what about the guys using the ae ball studs?is there going to be issues using those as well?
11-29-2012, 04:04 AM
#8952
Gentlemen, (and ladies?)
can someone tell me what is the distance between the two center holes of the steering rack?
in mm please )
between those that are mounted to the steering stands by the bell crank and NOT to the ball studs
can someone tell me what is the distance between the two center holes of the steering rack?
in mm please )
between those that are mounted to the steering stands by the bell crank and NOT to the ball studs
11-29-2012, 07:49 AM
#8953
The amount of advertisement on this site has just gotten outrageous. Is it just me? I understand they need to make a few bucks....but dang! This is worst than any other site I currently frequent (RC or otherwise). I'm seriously considering moving on to some other RC related site.
Last edited by qwkpony; 11-29-2012 at 07:50 AM. Reason: I can't spell
11-29-2012, 10:06 AM
#8954
i have a 10.5t novak edge 2s esc combo no timing or boost on esc just mechanical timing on the motor factory is 30* ,,, i got novak because their motor parts availability after the 120 day warranty you can buy everything to build their motors ,,10.5 is way more tame and controllable for me than a 8.5t reedy that fried in two track days, but i did notice other mods pull me on the straight not by much and my temps are closer to 120* after a 15 min run geared 81/27 so i can gear up and i have my timing at 20* just wish i would have bought an esc with boost
11-29-2012, 11:30 AM
#8955
The amount of advertisement on this site has just gotten outrageous. Is it just me? I understand they need to make a few bucks....but dang! This is worst than any other site I currently frequent (RC or otherwise). I'm seriously considering moving on to some other RC related site.