Durango DEX210 Thread
#8866
Id like to know what buggy you guys drove before coming to the 210, and what brought you to the 210.
After an RC vacation I came back in 2011, and started with the Losi 22. I could not drive the 22 to save my life. It was like no matter what I did, I just could not get it to hook up. I loved the car quality wise, it felt really stable, but I was slower than I have ever been.
I then tried the B4.1 Worlds. Great car, but it always felt a little light to me no matter how much weight I added. My lap times were much improved, but I never felt confident. I was running the buggy during the big bore spring craze. After converting to hexes, springs, etc., the buggy did feel pretty good but still a bit jittery for me.
The 210 is the best of all three in my opinion. The stability of the 22, the agility and turning of the B4.1, and the balanced feel you get from the 210. I feel like I can throw the car around the track and it will not let me down. The only negative for me is the ball cups. At first they were fine, but after one started popping off, the rest seemed to follow.
Also, things others have mentioned that were issues have all came to pass for me. Upgrade the RF hinge pin brace to metal, the steering rack brace with carbon or metal, and get the carbon rear brace that Tresrey sells to get the rear inner ball studs off the tranny and you will be bullet proof. I promise.
I describe my driving style as a "go for the triple with a 13.5" kind of driver. As a result, I have had some spectacular crashes and the 210 has proven to be very durable and fun to drive.
After an RC vacation I came back in 2011, and started with the Losi 22. I could not drive the 22 to save my life. It was like no matter what I did, I just could not get it to hook up. I loved the car quality wise, it felt really stable, but I was slower than I have ever been.
I then tried the B4.1 Worlds. Great car, but it always felt a little light to me no matter how much weight I added. My lap times were much improved, but I never felt confident. I was running the buggy during the big bore spring craze. After converting to hexes, springs, etc., the buggy did feel pretty good but still a bit jittery for me.
The 210 is the best of all three in my opinion. The stability of the 22, the agility and turning of the B4.1, and the balanced feel you get from the 210. I feel like I can throw the car around the track and it will not let me down. The only negative for me is the ball cups. At first they were fine, but after one started popping off, the rest seemed to follow.
Also, things others have mentioned that were issues have all came to pass for me. Upgrade the RF hinge pin brace to metal, the steering rack brace with carbon or metal, and get the carbon rear brace that Tresrey sells to get the rear inner ball studs off the tranny and you will be bullet proof. I promise.
I describe my driving style as a "go for the triple with a 13.5" kind of driver. As a result, I have had some spectacular crashes and the 210 has proven to be very durable and fun to drive.
#8868
YES YES YES, WHY!?!?!?!?! I finally got my 210 to the track last night, two popped ball cups. I don't think I have ever popped a cup off ANY other car. I can barely make adjustments without popping them off even with trying to jam two wrenches through the holes. I mean seriously!!!!! People had posted a solution by using rpm cups and TC6.1 studs (I think) I have to look it up. I built the car over a month ago and was only finally able to get it on the track for it's first runs yesterday. Now I am wishing I had taken care of the problem a month ago!!
#8869
I like the way it handles in the air over jumps... some 2WD 1/10 buggies don't generate enough rotation to make adjustments in the air. I haven't had any of those issues.
#8870
YES YES YES, WHY!?!?!?!?! I finally got my 210 to the track last night, two popped ball cups. I don't think I have ever popped a cup off ANY other car. I can barely make adjustments without popping them off even with trying to jam two wrenches through the holes. I mean seriously!!!!! People had posted a solution by using rpm cups and TC6.1 studs (I think) I have to look it up. I built the car over a month ago and was only finally able to get it on the track for it's first runs yesterday. Now I am wishing I had taken care of the problem a month ago!!
ASC31293 (long head 10mm thread)
X2 front shock tower
X4 front hubs
X2 rear gearbox
short head:
x2 Ackerman plate 8mm ASC31289
x2 rear hubs 10mm ASC31290
So to do redo everything on my dex210 I ordered
ASC31293 x 4
ASC31289 x 1
ASC31290 x 1
Associated Setup W/ JC ball cups PN: 2026
Associated B4 Ti Turnbuckle set: PN: ASC1282
#8871
Tech Elite
iTrader: (380)
I have some 4.3mm ball studs and ball cups for sale...check it out
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-oils-etc.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-oils-etc.html
#8872
Ball cup solution
With the stock ball studs and cups and turnbuckles
1st put one of the turnbuckles in a drill
2nd using a body reamer slightly ream the thread side of the ball cups
3rd on half of the cups thread in and out a few times leave it on the turnbuckle until it cools
4th flip the turnbuckle over and repeat step 3 on the rest of the cups
5th put a small amount of diff lube on the turnbuckle and thread the cups on
With this method you are cutting the threads and setting them and luberucating them this allows you to easily adjust them. The less you pop them off and Easter they move the better they preform. I use this method on mine and it works and I crash a lot.
Hope this helps
1st put one of the turnbuckles in a drill
2nd using a body reamer slightly ream the thread side of the ball cups
3rd on half of the cups thread in and out a few times leave it on the turnbuckle until it cools
4th flip the turnbuckle over and repeat step 3 on the rest of the cups
5th put a small amount of diff lube on the turnbuckle and thread the cups on
With this method you are cutting the threads and setting them and luberucating them this allows you to easily adjust them. The less you pop them off and Easter they move the better they preform. I use this method on mine and it works and I crash a lot.
Hope this helps
#8873
thanks guys for all your input about my question.
#8874
That's why we are here, I was glad I got my question re-answered!! I tried the whole using a drill thing the break in the cups, that certainly helped adjustment a bit, but they still seem to pop very easily. It doesn't seem to be from the force of impact, but more the angle. They definitely come off waaaaaay easier than any other car I own. But that is my only worry now, the rest of the car is great. I just hate barely clipping a turn and just hoping it wasn't enough to pop a cup. It just adds to the already nervous feeling of racing.
#8875
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
With the stock ball studs and cups and turnbuckles
1st put one of the turnbuckles in a drill
2nd using a body reamer slightly ream the thread side of the ball cups
3rd on half of the cups thread in and out a few times leave it on the turnbuckle until it cools
4th flip the turnbuckle over and repeat step 3 on the rest of the cups
5th put a small amount of diff lube on the turnbuckle and thread the cups on
With this method you are cutting the threads and setting them and luberucating them this allows you to easily adjust them. The less you pop them off and Easter they move the better they preform. I use this method on mine and it works and I crash a lot.
Hope this helps
1st put one of the turnbuckles in a drill
2nd using a body reamer slightly ream the thread side of the ball cups
3rd on half of the cups thread in and out a few times leave it on the turnbuckle until it cools
4th flip the turnbuckle over and repeat step 3 on the rest of the cups
5th put a small amount of diff lube on the turnbuckle and thread the cups on
With this method you are cutting the threads and setting them and luberucating them this allows you to easily adjust them. The less you pop them off and Easter they move the better they preform. I use this method on mine and it works and I crash a lot.
Hope this helps
#8877
With the stock ball studs and cups and turnbuckles
1st put one of the turnbuckles in a drill
2nd using a body reamer slightly ream the thread side of the ball cups
3rd on half of the cups thread in and out a few times leave it on the turnbuckle until it cools
4th flip the turnbuckle over and repeat step 3 on the rest of the cups
5th put a small amount of diff lube on the turnbuckle and thread the cups on
With this method you are cutting the threads and setting them and luberucating them this allows you to easily adjust them. The less you pop them off and Easter they move the better they preform. I use this method on mine and it works and I crash a lot.
Hope this helps
1st put one of the turnbuckles in a drill
2nd using a body reamer slightly ream the thread side of the ball cups
3rd on half of the cups thread in and out a few times leave it on the turnbuckle until it cools
4th flip the turnbuckle over and repeat step 3 on the rest of the cups
5th put a small amount of diff lube on the turnbuckle and thread the cups on
With this method you are cutting the threads and setting them and luberucating them this allows you to easily adjust them. The less you pop them off and Easter they move the better they preform. I use this method on mine and it works and I crash a lot.
Hope this helps
#8878
Plus the car comes with an 81 tooth spur. All 210s should
#8879
Yes gear diff, the esc is a Speed Passion Citrix Club spec, its a sensored esc with a 9.5 motor limit. Motor is a sealed, no timing 13.5. I bumped up the gearing a tooth or two and it was plenty fast on my local indoor tracks. Servo and radio were ok too.
Plus the car comes with an 81 tooth spur. All 210s should
Plus the car comes with an 81 tooth spur. All 210s should
#8880
Wheels Binding
sup guys, having a binding problem when i tighten the wheels nuts on the rear tires. the left is passable i guess but the right rear get extremely tight. i heard about a shimm trick. have any of you had this problem and if so how did you fix it? appreicate any info. thx