Durango DEX210 Thread
#8776
The ears on the diff nut should be within about 1mm of bottoming out on the outdrive. The diff screw will feel tight when you're threading it in well before the diff is actually tight, just work the diff as you tighten it to make sure it doesn't lock up. I like to use a drill to work it in as I tighten it.
#8777
I've seen people complain about this b4, it always ends up that they found something wrong with how they put it together. I would break it apart and put it back together again. Make sure u take ur time with the thrust bearing and make sure u have watched the TD video on building the diff, as it is a must! I am sure if u do these things, u will get it worked out. One thing for sure is that it is not supposed to do what u r describing, so something is not right somewhere. If u still can't figure it out after u take it apart, come post again with pics.
#8778
The ears on the diff nut should be within about 1mm of bottoming out on the outdrive. The diff screw will feel tight when you're threading it in well before the diff is actually tight, just work the diff as you tighten it to make sure it doesn't lock up. I like to use a drill to work it in as I tighten it.
#8782
Its going to hit until you adjust the diff.
#8783
#8784
#8785
Did you have issues with the stock pads? Mine work great... no issues after 3 weeks with the slipper medium tight.
#8786
I'm running stock blinky 17.5 class on a med. size high bite clay track and was wondering what rotor people would recommend 12.5 high rpm, 12.5 broadband ,or 12.5 high torque.
#8788
Big open track? High RPM.
Tight technical track? High Torque.
Big straight and technical everywhere else? Broadband (stock).
#8790
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