Durango DEX210 Thread
#5506
Tech Elite
iTrader: (166)
6mm of washers either plastic, or aluminum under the ball stud on the sterring link where the wheel resides causes the tires to remain straight when compress, when you have bump steer the tires tend to lean into the front bulkhead causing alot of friction and loss of traction. On the B4.1 it took 1 2mm FT washer to get rid of, as well as allother AE vehicles. On the Durago you need to put 6mm of washers under the ball stud to completely get rid of bump steer. Bump steer bad. I have never been in a situation where bump steer has helped, eliminating it all together is best. If you need more explanation PM me and i'll show you pics of my setup.
#5508
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
6mm of washers either plastic, or aluminum under the ball stud on the sterring link where the wheel resides causes the tires to remain straight when compress, when you have bump steer the tires tend to lean into the front bulkhead causing alot of friction and loss of traction. On the B4.1 it took 1 2mm FT washer to get rid of, as well as allother AE vehicles. On the Durago you need to put 6mm of washers under the ball stud to completely get rid of bump steer. Bump steer bad. I have never been in a situation where bump steer has helped, eliminating it all together is best. If you need more explanation PM me and i'll show you pics of my setup.
#5511
I will try those out.
I normally soak the o-rings with green slime in a small plastic bag for a few minutes.
Are you using green slime as well?
#5514
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
If you're happy with the 30deg (I think it's spot on) you can do as other have done and move the rack to the underside of the rocker arms, this reduces the amount of spacers on the outer end...
#5516
Tech Elite
iTrader: (166)
Well you "could" build it in, but then you wouldn't have all the adjustability that the 210 offers. As you change the caster inserts in the C hubs, the bumpsteer then needs to be changed as well. Why, because the end of the steering arm gets lower with more recline and higher with less. You want the tie-rod for the steering to be as close to parallel to the arm as possible, hard to do because the arm has a big bend in it! Imagine running the 35deg caster position, would need even more spacers
If you're happy with the 30deg (I think it's spot on) you can do as other have done and move the rack to the underside of the rocker arms, this reduces the amount of spacers on the outer end...
If you're happy with the 30deg (I think it's spot on) you can do as other have done and move the rack to the underside of the rocker arms, this reduces the amount of spacers on the outer end...
#5518
Tech Elite
iTrader: (153)
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=618&id=1786
#5519
Tech Champion
iTrader: (14)
#5520
Tech Addict
iTrader: (23)
shock oils
I'm wondering about shock oils and am currently using the 4-hole pistons (I think that's 1.3 and 1.2) with losi oils anywhere in the range of 25 to 37.5. It's a high-speed, medium-traction indoor clay track that's kinda bumpy with a few big jumps. Currently running 30wt oil front and back.
Any thoughts on what others are currently using for oils? I'm running RM with a full stick battery pack.
Any thoughts on what others are currently using for oils? I'm running RM with a full stick battery pack.