fredswain

iTrader: (1)

I'd go back to an RM3 setup for that track. Shorty battery half way forward. Look up balance tuning and then learn how to do it.

71schaeffer

iTrader: (10)

So i found out today why i had no steering! My axle was bent and was letting the wheel rub the caster block, how i didn't notice i couldn't tell you. I changed it out and good lord it feels like a new car. Thanks for the input guys

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

That's impressive, was it bent or not not seated in the insert? Never seen an axle bend but there's a first for everything

71schaeffer

iTrader: (10)

The axle itself was bent, i never recall ever hitting something hard enough to damage a part like that but you never know. Weirder things have happened. I checked the insert and it seemed indented upward like it had an obvious impact so i switched that out too

71schaeffer

iTrader: (10)

Does anyone know if the V2 chassis will fit on the V1 car? Exotek has a awesome carbon chassis and i was wanting to get it for stock racing

Lone Star

iTrader: (3)

13maschine is the expert on that chassis. Maybe PM him if you dont get an answer here.

Wanderer77

iTrader: (2)

For the most part, yes. When going from v1 to v2 you need v2 sidepods. Going to a Type B v2 Dimec chassis presents it's own set of parts that have to be mildly modded or changed (front bulkhead, rear bumper and suspension hangers), but with the Exotek you shouldn't have that problem.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

The Exotek chassis is nice. Good Quality and seems very light. I don't have a scale to weight my car believe it or not. (looking for a decent one) I've been exotek chassis for a while in MOD. I think for the style of tracks that I run on being high traction clay mostly, the molded or aluminum chassis might be better. I haven't yet tried the DIMEC20, but I plan to next. If you have a strictly V1 car, specifically the side pods, and you use the longer exotek(+8mm) you'll need the new side pods. You'll probably also need a new body or you'll need to modify your existing body.

Also worth checking out is the PlanB custom alum chassis setup. This gives you the wide shorty pack setup that is similar to the B5. I believe it is similar in price to the Exotek. Let me know if you need more info.

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone experienced breaking the regular plastic pistons? I seem to break the top portion where the screw holds the piston to the shaft. Should I be using a washer on top and underneath? Do I need to add a spacer on the outside so the shaft doesn't penetrate too far? This seems to be a regular occurrence. Is it because I am not using the bladders? I've been using the plastic shock caps for a while. This seems to happen on both my 210 and 410....Thanks!

Wanderer77

iTrader: (2)

Never had that problem. If you take just the shock caps off and push the piston shaft all the way in, where does the piston top stop? On all of my shocks at most it just barely reaches the top of the shock body. I wonder if you are actually having contact between the piston top and the shock cap? Maybe you just need to limit piston travel by a mm or two.

-Wanderer

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

Do you have the rubber bump stops on the shock shaft outside the body and the small washer under the piston?

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

@rcjunky: yes to the rubber cone bump stop washers on the outside, and also yes to the washer under the piston. I'm breaking the top portion of the piston.

@wanderer: I'll double check that the pistons don't come up that far, and I don't think they do. It's just a bit curious how it's happening. I guess it's possible I'm over-torqueing the top screw but I have also had trouble with them coming loose. I also use loctite.

open to ideas, thanks!

Tdub77

iTrader: (2)

On my car, which is a v1, I need to use 2 rubber stops on the rear shocks and 1 on the front shocks to stop the piston from hitting the cap

Tim

Dino_D

Once you eliminated the upper clearance. Piston should not protrude past the shock body.
Then, I would check the insert and spacers at the bottom of the shock. If you haven't replaced them in a while, the dirt trapped between the spacers and orings on the bottom of the shock and wear will cause excessive wobble on the piston shaft leading to the piston scratching the inside of the shock body and perhaps getting jammed somehow and breaking.

LiL_JaSoN

iTrader: (6)

so just weighed the gear diff vs ball diff and the geardiff is around 10g lighter (28 vs 38g or something on top of my head).

i run on a outdoor mid traction track, do you think you will get any problems in a 17.5t diffing out?