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Old 10-22-2014, 01:50 PM
  #15256  
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Originally Posted by Dino_D
start with 1-2k. Start with 2k first. I find the ball diff better on med traction tracks. Gear diff if high traction or carpet.
Thanks for the info, its medium at the start of the day then the traction goes up like most tracks. Its a new layout with fresh new clay, i would say in a month or so after more race days the traction will go way up and I'll look into switching then.

I will stick with the ball diff for a bit until the traction goes up. thanks for the reply tho
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Old 10-22-2014, 02:53 PM
  #15257  
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So I went ahead and ordered 2x Exotek RF Alloy block's with the adjustable shims. From what I can see its no bigger than the normal RF block from durango but is anyone actually using these in a composite Type B chassis ? I have them in my dex210 and desc210. I will probably answer my own question when I get them but just wondering.

http://www.exotekracing.com/dex210-r...ith-shims-lrc/

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Old 10-22-2014, 04:58 PM
  #15258  
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I have been, it takes some dremel work on the shims to fit without moding the chassis.
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Old 10-22-2014, 05:00 PM
  #15259  
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Originally Posted by rcjunky1
I have been, it takes some dremel work on the shims to fit without moding the chassis.
Hmm I kind of suspected that from that little overhang on the shims, but the actual block fits OK? I can file the edges of the shims easy enough
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Old 10-22-2014, 06:31 PM
  #15260  
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Yup, just buzz off the little tabs off the shims and you're good
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Old 10-22-2014, 08:54 PM
  #15261  
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are you guys running plastic gears in the gear diff? or metal?
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Old 10-22-2014, 11:36 PM
  #15262  
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Im going to use the Metal ones that came with the diff gear. Not so sure on the plastic cross bars and gears inless they are pretty good quality.
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Old 10-23-2014, 12:37 AM
  #15263  
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I am running plastic ones in my dex410 with 8.5 and my Desc210 with a 10.5 no issues so far
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Old 10-23-2014, 04:13 AM
  #15264  
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Yup, I ran plastic for motorama (stock class) and the beginning of the season (mod), durability is no issue with them
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Old 10-23-2014, 05:02 AM
  #15265  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
I meant to ask about what weight diff oil for the gear diff ? I'm thinking 4000w, 5000w since il be running on carpet and clay .
5k inside and high bite clay is great,, 2-3k for low/med bite


Originally Posted by Pittster
So I went ahead and ordered 2x Exotek RF Alloy block's with the adjustable shims. From what I can see its no bigger than the normal RF block from durango but is anyone actually using these in a composite Type B chassis ? I have them in my dex210 and desc210. I will probably answer my own question when I get them but just wondering.
Careful w/ that exotek F/R hanger in mid motor config, if you don't use those center screws and the spacer plates WILL fall out.... After loosing two I just use gold washers to space it in my MM config.
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Old 10-23-2014, 06:52 AM
  #15266  
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Ok il start with 5k in the rear diff thinking it should work on carpet fine also . Il take a try at them plastic gears and crossbars surprised they hold up with mod motors .
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Old 10-23-2014, 06:54 AM
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They have been in my stock motor buggy since they came out. No issues with them.
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Old 10-23-2014, 08:49 AM
  #15268  
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The plastic gears are so tough I'd try them in a desc410 if I had one
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Old 10-23-2014, 10:43 AM
  #15269  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
I would just get the gear diff i just bought one . Since you gotta rebuild the ball diff .
The gear diff is a useless turd on my track. I tried one in my desc210. Even after we installed the watering system, not enough grip to make use of it. All the fast guys are ball diffs. It was weird, it handled best with 5K diff oil on our loose track rather than something low. Ball diff was just unquestionably better. I think we have one gear diff in a losi and that's it.


What that said, what does a ball rebuild entail? Do people normally re-use the balls? I am putting in new bearings for sure. Does the race thrust cage part get replaced as well, or am I OK to reuse it with maybe some new grease?
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Old 10-23-2014, 10:49 AM
  #15270  
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The balls wear and get flat spots so replace the balls and the rings. Don't forget the balls that ride in the diff outdrive cup either.
I serviced and replaced every hand full of days driving. If there is any crunchyness to it I would replace. If it wasn't too bad i would clean and flip the rings.
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