Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

I know what you mean. Been there.

BATT_MAN

It is easier to make noticeable adjustments by using shims because of the limitations on the link adjustments. However, remember that by adjusting the angle and length of the camber link you have FULL CONTROL of where you want the RC to be.

More adjustments can be achieved by the position of the camber link, but you also have to take into consideration the position (height and angle) of the lower arm.

The RC is defined by the intersection of THREE POINTS. These points are defined by the UPPER LINK, THE A ARM, and the center contact patch of the tire. The intersection of these three lines defines the location of the RC.

As you can see ALL of them play an important part in chassis setup.

I attached a free hand drawing that shows how to find the RC

I hope this helps

BATT_MAN

Thanks John

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

You may want to use a spell checker until the meds wear off.

Anyways, for a really good explanation of roll centers and general vehicle dynamics, go to this site. It's got a lot of stuff and some really good illustrations.

http://home.tiscali.be/be067749/58/

BATT_MAN

NO JOKE...

I was kept asleep for 72 hours....
Heavy duty stuff....
The lines are not straight either....

Anyway, the site that John refers to is a GREAT introductory site.
If anyone is interested in more advanced force dynamics and chassis analysis info will be glad to point you to some excellent sources. The only downside is that they are written for engineers and it is all written with tons of equations (from diff to matrixes) But they are great sources.

aus jd 2703

iTrader: (5)

john heres my set up if you cant read it let me know.
its my first time playing with the scanner also as u see i have shocking hand writing. thanks man pm me any suggestions.
thanks man

Skiddins

Hi, try searching on the net for CutePDF form filler, i used it to change information and save them for my setups;

Racechat Setup Section

Skiddins

roadrashracing2

I am buying a used mi2 with some ec parts. I am looking for a rubber setup for carpet. And are the arms for the mi2 and the ec the same?

R/C Anonymous

iTrader: (1)

Isaac you can always call me and explain it. I probably won't undestand most of it though.

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

I took a quick look. I assume you're using the stock shocks and towers. I'm not sure what spring rates you have on there. But the first thing I see is the car is way too high. Lower the car to about 5mm front and 5.5mm in the back if it's a bumpy surface. You rarely want to be any higher than that. Also move your lower shock mount in the rear in one hole. Also, try going to a spool instead of a diff. The only place we really ever run a diff is on foam tires on the rug. Try those changes and let me know how it works.

Skiddins

Although these are for the EC they might be OK.

Mi2 EC Setups

I used Kevin Brunsdens Carpet Wars setup with the exception of a one way diff and it felt very good.

Skiddins

Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

The arms are the same....the EC arms are updated to be stronger then the MI2 arms but the geometry is the same. AS far as a setup the Temeu setup that PW posted a while back works really well on carpet rubber tires.

aus jd 2703

iTrader: (5)

yeh the local pro at my track heavy (he's on once and awhile) said i spool is faster but also said you break more parts when u crash (which i do a lot as im new) so im a bit worried if a bought a spool should i upgrade my front drive shafts?? im running kit plastic ones also are the aluminium rear hubs any good they seem like a good idea as the take aways some toe? just trying tu under stand the car.

also does any one lock the front diff??
also do u remove the diff rings and thrust race or just the diff balls??
does any one run ceramic diff balls??

Jon Kerr

iTrader: (17)

You will need to replace the front CVD's with metal ones. At least with the steel CVD's. You don't really need to drop the cash on the expensive Worlds ones. You'll also need to stock up on the blades but those are cheap. The problem is that if you don't go to a spool, your car will never handle quite right, so you will probably continue to struggle and hit things. You need a good handling car to become a better driver. And a spool is essentially a locked diff. before companies had solid alloy one piece spools like we do now, guys would just remove the diff balls and glue sand paper or thin cardboard like the cards that are stapled to parts bags to the diff rings and assemble the diff like that and tighten it down all the way.

The alloy rear hubs are a good tuning option. I always liked to run them on the Mi2. We normally ran them with the 0º inserts in them with the alloy pivot blocks and that gave us the 2º rear toe that we usually run on asphalt. They also change the rear camber link geometry.

Skiddins

If you have diff and want to try driving with a spool without spending money on one just tighten up the normal diff VERY tight and hey presto.
A proper spool will be lighter and designed for the job but I tried the above before spending my money and it behaved the same.
I ran with plastic drive shafts for a couple of months before breaking one, but they willbe worth replaceing anyway.

Never tried ceramic diff balls, probably only worth getting if you have to replace the ones you have.