Schumacher Corner
06-29-2005, 11:55 PM
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
That's right, going back to the spool after seeing the error in your One-Ways 
06-29-2005, 11:59 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
Originally Posted by STLNLST
Spool is in for modified purposes. Oneway definately in 19 turn. I want to see how much of a difference the pre-made spool is compared to the one made from a regular diff.
06-30-2005, 12:18 AM
Rear wheel drive only. J/K 
The way I look at it is Spool for mod, spool or oneway for stock (driver preference) and definately a oneway for stock. This is for rubber tires on med/high grip asphalt.
The way I look at it is Spool for mod, spool or oneway for stock (driver preference) and definately a oneway for stock. This is for rubber tires on med/high grip asphalt.
06-30-2005, 12:29 AM
Nobody?
Originally Posted by Cole Trickle
I've ordered my MI2.
Do you guys recommend any spare parts?
Our boards are pretty tough, so I was thinking about some spare A-arms, things like that...
The plan is pretty simple: Run it plain stock, and see how far I can take it. Later on, I'll maybe try a spool and/or a one-way.
Is there a recommended setup for carpet, rubber tires. Stock class exclusively. And no tire sauce at all. I'll probably start out with a boring-looking, nice handling Stratus, or something like that.
I do have a reasonablt selection of Schumacher springs, but I believe I'll be using my HPI springs, since I got a much better selection of these
Thanks.
Do you guys recommend any spare parts?
Our boards are pretty tough, so I was thinking about some spare A-arms, things like that...
The plan is pretty simple: Run it plain stock, and see how far I can take it. Later on, I'll maybe try a spool and/or a one-way.
Is there a recommended setup for carpet, rubber tires. Stock class exclusively. And no tire sauce at all. I'll probably start out with a boring-looking, nice handling Stratus, or something like that.
I do have a reasonablt selection of Schumacher springs, but I believe I'll be using my HPI springs, since I got a much better selection of these
Thanks.
06-30-2005, 03:25 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
Originally Posted by Jack Smash
Rear wheel drive only. J/K
The way I look at it is Spool for mod, spool or oneway for stock (driver preference) and definately a oneway for stock. This is for rubber tires on med/high grip asphalt.
The way I look at it is Spool for mod, spool or oneway for stock (driver preference) and definately a oneway for stock. This is for rubber tires on med/high grip asphalt.
cudos
06-30-2005, 06:04 AM
MI2 Setup
Hi guys hoping you can help with a setup. We have a national title coming up in November and need abit of info on setting up a MI2 for my son (13 years old ). He ran the state titles with pretty much a standard setup for the manual just changed spring rates (4th place in the A final should have been 3rd but thats another story). He runs mod, will be using around a 9 to 10 turn motor on foam tyres 40f/40r shore or 40f/37r.
The track runs around 10-11 seconds a lap
Would also like to know what to change eg roll centres, diff's, shock towers, I'm ordering the alloy rear hubs just need to know what else to order
Also here is a link to a pic of the track.
Thanks
John
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...chmentid=76882
The track runs around 10-11 seconds a lap
Would also like to know what to change eg roll centres, diff's, shock towers, I'm ordering the alloy rear hubs just need to know what else to order
Also here is a link to a pic of the track.
Thanks
John
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...chmentid=76882
06-30-2005, 06:18 AM
Originally Posted by tao3
Hi guys hoping you can help with a setup. We have a national title coming up in November and need abit of info on setting up a MI2 for my son (13 years old ). He ran the state titles with pretty much a standard setup for the manual just changed spring rates (4th place in the A final should have been 3rd but thats another story). He runs mod, will be using around a 9 to 10 turn motor on foam tyres 40f/40r shore or 40f/37r.
The track runs around 10-11 seconds a lap
Would also like to know what to change eg roll centres, diff's, shock towers, I'm ordering the alloy rear hubs just need to know what else to order
Also here is a link to a pic of the track.
Thanks
John
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...chmentid=76882
The track runs around 10-11 seconds a lap
Would also like to know what to change eg roll centres, diff's, shock towers, I'm ordering the alloy rear hubs just need to know what else to order
Also here is a link to a pic of the track.
Thanks
John
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...chmentid=76882
06-30-2005, 06:39 AM
Originally Posted by Cole Trickle
Nobody?
06-30-2005, 07:07 AM
check out all of the rubber tire carpet set up's on www.gearchart.com Mo posted some good one's on there as well.
Stock, mod or 19 turn is all personal preference. I ran a spool in stock at the region 12 race in hisperia and I had the fastest car on the track. For the last couple of race days I have been switching between the two and they are both great but the spool allows me to out brake people in some corners.
Stock, mod or 19 turn is all personal preference. I ran a spool in stock at the region 12 race in hisperia and I had the fastest car on the track. For the last couple of race days I have been switching between the two and they are both great but the spool allows me to out brake people in some corners.
06-30-2005, 07:44 AM
Quick question for all, why do you run the 20t instead of the 17t? Wouldn't you have better accelleration with the 17t? Or do you lose to much top end with the 17t with current motors? 
06-30-2005, 08:25 AM
Tao3 - I have no experience with foam tire on asphalt so not sure where to start for setup.
Mopar - To me, a ratio is a ratio. If you ran the same overall gear ratio with the 17 tooth as you did with the 20 tooth, your car would have the same acceleration and top speed. If someone could explain to me how a 2.0:1 drivetrain has more punch than a 1.8:1 ratio in scientific terms instead of just that it "feels" like it, then i will buy it.
What I was told is it shortens the rear belt life when using the smaller pulley. Thats why you always see the 20t being used.
Mopar - To me, a ratio is a ratio. If you ran the same overall gear ratio with the 17 tooth as you did with the 20 tooth, your car would have the same acceleration and top speed. If someone could explain to me how a 2.0:1 drivetrain has more punch than a 1.8:1 ratio in scientific terms instead of just that it "feels" like it, then i will buy it.
What I was told is it shortens the rear belt life when using the smaller pulley. Thats why you always see the 20t being used.
Last edited by Jack Smash; 06-30-2005 at 11:22 AM.
06-30-2005, 08:36 AM
Originally Posted by STLNLST
check out all of the rubber tire carpet set up's on www.gearchart.com Mo posted some good one's on there as well.
06-30-2005, 09:22 AM
Tech Regular
Mopar- for the most part Jack is right. Where the difference in internal ratio can make a difference, is in efficiency, and acceleration. As far as efficiency is concerned, the 20t should be more efficient, because of less dynamic binding (e.g. in the belt teeth wanting to climb up the face of the pulley under acceleration, causing a mismatch in pitch). And for partly the same reason there is an argument for using the 20 tooth for better acceleration. However, a smaller pulley means less rotating mass which = faster spoolup, and quicker acceleration. This is minimal with todays components because of their light weight, and the abundance of power with newer motors. One other advantage the larger pulley has, is that the RPM's on the layshaft are reduced, and this makes the car (in theory) transfer weight more easily left and right. Although all these things effect the way your car runs, they are all minor and should have less effect than just making sure your belts aren't loose. -Jeff
06-30-2005, 12:07 PM
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
One thing that we hear a lot about any parts breaking is "I didn't hit anything" or "I didn't hit that hard" The problem is that there may have already been damage there from a previous hit that hadn't broken all the way. A cracked part may hold together enough that you wouldn't be able to tell but will break with the lightest hit or even just the load on it from driving. I've seen A-arms snap in mid corner before.
yeah thats what i think too because wen i went indoors i did hit alot of things with the diff,i think with turning it into a spool just finished it off with just driving the thing. bob
06-30-2005, 01:58 PM
Adrian or PDub- the website seems to be down (just in case you guys didn't already know )
)