Schumacher Corner
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Thanks Pdub, but could you explain the reasoning bening some of the changes you've mentioned as I have tried some of them and it hasn't helped. for example:
Removing the front riser plater: I went 1mm lower, then 2mm lower - and I couldn't really feel any change in steering.
I am running the sway bar on the front because it seems to give more steering - so I think going to a thinner bar will take away even more steering.
I have tried moving the rear shocks out on the arm, and running a sway bar, and all these changes seem to give me more grip and less steering!
I was running the cells in the middle position until this weekend - I got a little more steering running them forward.
This is why I'm lost - most "normal" things that I try are causing me to lose steering
Tim-
I have had a look at the chassis. It is heavily scratched on the front edge (where the bumper is) for a distance of 2 or 3mm and slightly more around the front corners.
At the rear of the chassis it is also heavily scratched around the corners.
Removing the front riser plater: I went 1mm lower, then 2mm lower - and I couldn't really feel any change in steering.
I am running the sway bar on the front because it seems to give more steering - so I think going to a thinner bar will take away even more steering.
I have tried moving the rear shocks out on the arm, and running a sway bar, and all these changes seem to give me more grip and less steering!
I was running the cells in the middle position until this weekend - I got a little more steering running them forward.
This is why I'm lost - most "normal" things that I try are causing me to lose steering
Tim-
I have had a look at the chassis. It is heavily scratched on the front edge (where the bumper is) for a distance of 2 or 3mm and slightly more around the front corners.
At the rear of the chassis it is also heavily scratched around the corners.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
The most important thing you do is make that rear, lower shock location change and go to the 1.5mm (black) front sway bar. Both should actually give you more steering. One thing that took me a long time to learn is the difference between having steering and having a loose race car. Loose is when the rear looses grip and wants to come around. Having steering is when the front wants to turn and the rear will follow the front wherever you put it without loosing grip. (Does that make since to anyone but myself? )
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
Hey , bender.
I feel for you I'm have a hard time getting my MI2 set(dailed in too). I used to spin out while going into the turn especially when when I gun it out of them. I tried lots of things. (luckly one of the guy's here has an MI2. Which he raced on carpet on the mainland during the winter. I noticed my rear diff and front diff were too tight. I back them off a half turn, and made a huge difference. Just my 2 cents. I'm not a pro with the MI2, (just two weeks with the car)still learning like you. I run on a small tight track on asphalt. I hope this help you you.
Quick question. from reading the earlier thread(post). when you guy's explained to convert the front diff to a spool. what that with a stock diff? Well any case the car ran great this weekend in the rain(light rain).
I feel for you I'm have a hard time getting my MI2 set(dailed in too). I used to spin out while going into the turn especially when when I gun it out of them. I tried lots of things. (luckly one of the guy's here has an MI2. Which he raced on carpet on the mainland during the winter. I noticed my rear diff and front diff were too tight. I back them off a half turn, and made a huge difference. Just my 2 cents. I'm not a pro with the MI2, (just two weeks with the car)still learning like you. I run on a small tight track on asphalt. I hope this help you you.
Quick question. from reading the earlier thread(post). when you guy's explained to convert the front diff to a spool. what that with a stock diff? Well any case the car ran great this weekend in the rain(light rain).
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
The most important thing you do is make that rear, lower shock location change and go to the 1.5mm (black) front sway bar. Both should actually give you more steering. One thing that took me a long time to learn is the difference between having steering and having a loose race car. Loose is when the rear looses grip and wants to come around. Having steering is when the front wants to turn and the rear will follow the front wherever you put it without loosing grip. (Does that make since to anyone but myself? )
All i know is everytime I have made the rear suspension stiffer, it has given the rear more grip (or the front less steering ). I started by adding the sway bar, then moving the shocks out - and each time the rear felt more "locked-in" than before.
I know something isn't right when putting a sway bar on the front gives you MORE steering
I'm starting to think that perhaps the front is too soft, so maybe when I turn into corners the chassis bottoms out - which I assume would take away a lot of steering.
I know a one-way will help a lot but I should be able to get the car working pretty well with the kit diff - but it's just not happening
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Actually, adding a sway bar in the front can give you more steering. If the front end is too soft, it will "dump over" or roll over way too far. This will make you loose grip. By adding the sway bar, it keeps the front end from dumping and you get more grip. However, if you go too heavy on the sway bar, you will begin to loose grip again.
Usually a good rule of thumb is the front controls off power steering, (turn in) and the rear controls the on power (exiting) the corner. This isn't always the case depending on the layout, but it's a good place to start. Also, when trying to fix a cornering problem, I look at what it's doing going into the corner first. You'll hear guys say it pushes going in and loose off. Many times that's from the driver having to pitch the car around to get it to turn in and after turn in it'll break loose and be loose off the corner. So you fix the turn in and usually that will also solve the problem coming out of the corner.
Hope this helps.
Usually a good rule of thumb is the front controls off power steering, (turn in) and the rear controls the on power (exiting) the corner. This isn't always the case depending on the layout, but it's a good place to start. Also, when trying to fix a cornering problem, I look at what it's doing going into the corner first. You'll hear guys say it pushes going in and loose off. Many times that's from the driver having to pitch the car around to get it to turn in and after turn in it'll break loose and be loose off the corner. So you fix the turn in and usually that will also solve the problem coming out of the corner.
Hope this helps.
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
Actually, adding a sway bar in the front can give you more steering. If the front end is too soft, it will "dump over" or roll over way too far. This will make you loose grip. By adding the sway bar, it keeps the front end from dumping and you get more grip. However, if you go too heavy on the sway bar, you will begin to loose grip again.
Usually a good rule of thumb is the front controls off power steering, (turn in) and the rear controls the on power (exiting) the corner. This isn't always the case depending on the layout, but it's a good place to start. Also, when trying to fix a cornering problem, I look at what it's doing going into the corner first. You'll hear guys say it pushes going in and loose off. Many times that's from the driver having to pitch the car around to get it to turn in and after turn in it'll break loose and be loose off the corner. So you fix the turn in and usually that will also solve the problem coming out of the corner.
Hope this helps.
Usually a good rule of thumb is the front controls off power steering, (turn in) and the rear controls the on power (exiting) the corner. This isn't always the case depending on the layout, but it's a good place to start. Also, when trying to fix a cornering problem, I look at what it's doing going into the corner first. You'll hear guys say it pushes going in and loose off. Many times that's from the driver having to pitch the car around to get it to turn in and after turn in it'll break loose and be loose off the corner. So you fix the turn in and usually that will also solve the problem coming out of the corner.
Hope this helps.
Unfortunately, I've never been good at actually seeing what the car is doing on the track (especially at night), I usually just go by feel and guess!
And what you were describing with pitching the car around was exactly what i think happened in one heat last week. I made a change that didn't work so I really had to "throw" the car into the corners - which then made it very loose mid turn. If I get the car to turn well into the turn, then obviously it will be in a better position when exiting
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Originally Posted by P-DUB
STLNLST....You finally got your car into the Magz (extreme R/C)!!!! Everything has been going so well since the body change
Some decals on that thing would of been nice
Some decals on that thing would of been nice
Originally Posted by Jon Kerr
I just got my issue. Where's the lovin' for my car in the same picture on the contents page? And mine's got stickers on it
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Tech Regular
Body
Hey guys, which is great body for on road asphalt?
and for an indoor carpet??
why?
Thanks.
Marcelo.
and for an indoor carpet??
why?
Thanks.
Marcelo.
Those of you looking for the trick bellcranks that PW ran at the Reedy Race can give Superior a call as they are in stock.
Posts are part number COR79251
Bellcranks are part number COR79256
You will also need four 5x8mm bearings as well.
Posts are part number COR79251
Bellcranks are part number COR79256
You will also need four 5x8mm bearings as well.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Asphalt or Carpet with Rubber Tires: Protoform Mazda 6 or All Purpose Stratus 3.0. Why?: High down force, steering and stability.
Carpet with Foam Tires: Parma Alfa. Why?: Light weight=Low CG for less body roll, less down force for a more free running car, excellent balance of steering and stability on foams.
Carpet with Foam Tires: Parma Alfa. Why?: Light weight=Low CG for less body roll, less down force for a more free running car, excellent balance of steering and stability on foams.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Originally Posted by PW
We expect your sweet lookin car to make it into the Magz, but stlnlst....LOL
Where's the love?????
Just gotta make sure you're pimpin my scheme proper
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
hey guys...i am glad to see so much info on this thread, as i am concidering the mi2 for my next tc! looking forward to sharing info in the near future.
BIG DAVE
BIG DAVE