Pit-racer

iTrader: (4)

Racer X can I have your asphalt set-up for the mission also.I'm setting up my mission to race Markg on asphalt in the near future...

Racer X

iTrader: (2)

KingG: No you can't since the nut would interfere with the steering arms. The part must be threaded which is why the Fireblade part is used. The end result is matching the front and rear hingepin heights

Pit-racer: I'll get that out to you and Randy...I really hope tomorrow. Summer is supposed to be the slow time, but the last three days have said different at work. Tomorrow...

JesseT

I think the point was to use the other rear hinge pin mount. The one with two screws. I think it will do if the height is shaved down slightly. I made some custom mounts out of aluminum. I can post some pics after I've anodized them.

King-G

yeah sorry for teh confusion, this is what I meant...the hingepin mounts for the rear of the car....perhaps the ones which can be flipped for rear inboard toe. possibly need shvaing down as JesseT has said

PW

jesseT....You have to remove to much material away from the rear blocks for the bellcranks to clear. That is the way we did the first prototypes and we found the alloy blocks to work much better, plus you can flip the alloy block over and run the stock roll-center.

BTW, the new Warpspeed Chassis (3mm) is in stock now and we are also taking orders for the 2mm chassis due to arrive in 2 weeks time.

King-G

Hey Paul or Racer X, I have 2 different part no's here for the fireblade hingepin mounts, could you please tell me which part to get in:

u1988: O deg pivot

u1989: 3 deg pivot

Cheers

Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

King G......you need both part numbers for the mod. The 3 deg blocks go in the front and the 0 deg blocks in the rear.

MattW

King G, we've just used the 3 deg block in the UK.

Racer X

iTrader: (2)

KingG: The O degree blocks are used in the rear. The 3 degree blocks are for the front if you choose not to use a spacer, but the 3d blocks prevent the use of the optional 2d rake hingepin mount. If you use the spacer (2mm thick), the 3d blocks are not needed.

Racer X

iTrader: (2)

Those who have requested my Mission setup, please send an email to [email protected] and I can send it back as an attachment.

Pit-racer

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Racer X got it!

Racer X

iTrader: (2)

Everyone who requested a setup sheet should have one in their email by now. If anyone else is interested, or if you requested one and haven't gotten it, send me an email...

4jw

Has anyone been having problems breaking upper wishbones? My son and I seem to be breaking upper arms everyweek. Does anyone make any after market upper arms?

Thanks Jack

King-G

yesterday testing indoors I broke an upper left rear arm, wasnt a fault of the cars, as I brushed a pipe exiting a hairpin, the PVC pipe has a metal joint which loves wheel nuts!...it grabbed the nut and tore the wheel rearward.

I was well pleased to see that the upper arm was the only casualty..The schumacher cars are very durable, very well engineered, and very few spares are required....

I have found that the upper arms, and a pair of front and rear lowers are all thats I have needed.

BigDogRacing

iTrader: (12)

Jack, I have broken one upper A arm in the 3 months I've had my Mission, and I'm certainly not a perfect driver. That one time was a pretty good lick against the pipe. I'm not bashing you or anything, but are you guys hitting the boards pretty often? Are you doing anything to modify or change the arms before you install them? Do your front tires stick out of the body any? If you are still learning to stay off the pipes, you might try one of those BRP front bumpers for a TC3 (Ithink). You can mount it to the bottom of the Mission front bumper and trim it to fit your body. It will help a ton if you're brushing pipes. You might also try a different body. The body plays a big role in protecting the front suspension. If you don't believe me, try running a few laps without it... hehe.

Hope this helps!!!