Originally Posted by dawgmeat

what grit sandpaper was I suppose to use on the diff rings and was it suppose wet

Originally Posted by AdrianM

Try this and let me know if it helps...

Before starting think of diff building like cooking with chicken. The black thrust lube is the chicken and if you get it on the diff balls, rings or pulley your diff will get sick and DIE!

Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.

Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.

Before I start I clean EVERYTHING with motor spray.

1. If you havent gotten a U1954 Tungsten Carbide Thrust Bearing get one. Its better then the one inculded in the kit.

Clean it all out and use Schumacher Black Thrust lube. Measure the outside diameter of the thrust washers. The small diameter one goes on the screw first.

Go wash your hands and get every bit grease off your fingers.

2. Sand U2408 diff rings with 600 grit wet dry on both sides using motor spray to wet the paper until you see even scorring of the rings entire surface.

Clean them with motor spray and place them on a clean paper towel.

3. Toss the ceramic diff balls. The U2459 Tungsten Carbide diff balls are smoother and longer lasting. Place the balls on a clean paper towel and CAREFULLY spray them with motor spray to get rid of any protective oil that is on them. If you spray too hard you will launch $15 of diff ball all over you room and they will be gone forever. When they are clean and dry put them in the tub of U1301 Silicone diff grease. Pluck them out and place them in your diff pully. Thats all the grease you will need.

4. Gradually tighten up the diff untill one output starts to spin opposite the other one. Gradually tighten the diff a little then spinn it a little untill you feel the diff screw has colapsed the spring washers next to the thrust bearing and it dosen't want to turn anymore.

The goal is to tighten the diff but not pit your freshly sanded diff rings.

5. Loosen the diff 1/4 turn then lock down the grub screw on the opposite side.

6. Put the diff in your car and turn everyhting on. wit the car up on a car stand. Run the car at low throttle while alternatly touching each rear wheel untill it stops. Repeat this 2-3 time per side.

The diff should be super free, super smooth and should not slip at all.

If you diff slips just once during a race it will score your rings and it will be junk. You will have to rebuild it and flip, resand or replace the rings.

The U1954 thrust will last longer than yuor kit so it will never be the cause of diff problems. The U2459 ball will survive at least 6 months or more. The only things that go bad in a diff assembled with these parts as described are the rings and you can resand them several time before you need to replace them.

Originally Posted by Customworksking

if your a pro and u don't pay for your parts then why run steel but 4 someone like me at a club race where u don't have a field of abv average drivers then steel is the way to go! I had the silver and they bent like the purp..

Originally Posted by Customworksking

Yes I been to Trackside I make it about 3 to 4 times a year TCS,Novak rubber natts and Brads race..I run @ www.Allensrccars.com I will b at the Novak... even at the iic this year Jimmy bent bones He gave me a set of used silver cvd's 1 bent 1 not I found if u break a frt arm u bend the bone

Originally Posted by Customworksking

I think but may be wrong but they ran parma's @57mm

Originally Posted by Big Features

The cars are very simular. The only things that are really different are the shocktowers, suspension arms, chassis/topdeck, and shocks. You shoud be able to use everything else.