Schumacher Corner
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
ok lol i got bored so decided to 'prep' my mi2 ec, so far ive:
cut every 2nd tooth out of an old rear belt (less rolling friction) and soaked it in wd 40.
soaked the bearing in acetone and removed the shields and seals, im going to soak them in lighter fluid then burn the residue (heard it works well) and then use a dremel to spin them in brasso (liquid metal polish) so that the bearings are supper smooth and frictionless.
i was going to search for some teflon oil (currently using much more spin lube) is this better than the much more?
im going to run 6 diff balls in the rear diff(a local corrally driver reckon this is the go)
what else can i do to free up the car? im not worried about having heaps of maintenence or parts wearing out, im probably buying a new car as my lower deck is really scratched and the front has chipped the rear shock tower and upper deck have cracks in one layer of the cf. not to mention slop in the steering and work out drive shafts.
lol just want a kick ass 540 car.
cheers btw is it true u should use the smallest possible spur to reduce rotating mass?
cut every 2nd tooth out of an old rear belt (less rolling friction) and soaked it in wd 40.
soaked the bearing in acetone and removed the shields and seals, im going to soak them in lighter fluid then burn the residue (heard it works well) and then use a dremel to spin them in brasso (liquid metal polish) so that the bearings are supper smooth and frictionless.
i was going to search for some teflon oil (currently using much more spin lube) is this better than the much more?
im going to run 6 diff balls in the rear diff(a local corrally driver reckon this is the go)
what else can i do to free up the car? im not worried about having heaps of maintenence or parts wearing out, im probably buying a new car as my lower deck is really scratched and the front has chipped the rear shock tower and upper deck have cracks in one layer of the cf. not to mention slop in the steering and work out drive shafts.
lol just want a kick ass 540 car.
cheers btw is it true u should use the smallest possible spur to reduce rotating mass?
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
Randy,
Brooklyn hobbies has the servo your looking for.
Brooklyn hobbies has the servo your looking for.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
ok lol i got bored so decided to 'prep' my mi2 ec, so far ive:
cut every 2nd tooth out of an old rear belt (less rolling friction) and soaked it in wd 40.
soaked the bearing in acetone and removed the shields and seals, im going to soak them in lighter fluid then burn the residue (heard it works well) and then use a dremel to spin them in brasso (liquid metal polish) so that the bearings are supper smooth and frictionless.
i was going to search for some teflon oil (currently using much more spin lube) is this better than the much more?
im going to run 6 diff balls in the rear diff(a local corrally driver reckon this is the go)
what else can i do to free up the car? im not worried about having heaps of maintenence or parts wearing out, im probably buying a new car as my lower deck is really scratched and the front has chipped the rear shock tower and upper deck have cracks in one layer of the cf. not to mention slop in the steering and work out drive shafts.
lol just want a kick ass 540 car.
cheers btw is it true u should use the smallest possible spur to reduce rotating mass?
cut every 2nd tooth out of an old rear belt (less rolling friction) and soaked it in wd 40.
soaked the bearing in acetone and removed the shields and seals, im going to soak them in lighter fluid then burn the residue (heard it works well) and then use a dremel to spin them in brasso (liquid metal polish) so that the bearings are supper smooth and frictionless.
i was going to search for some teflon oil (currently using much more spin lube) is this better than the much more?
im going to run 6 diff balls in the rear diff(a local corrally driver reckon this is the go)
what else can i do to free up the car? im not worried about having heaps of maintenence or parts wearing out, im probably buying a new car as my lower deck is really scratched and the front has chipped the rear shock tower and upper deck have cracks in one layer of the cf. not to mention slop in the steering and work out drive shafts.
lol just want a kick ass 540 car.
cheers btw is it true u should use the smallest possible spur to reduce rotating mass?
Tech Elite
iTrader: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Far away from Covid19 but close to 20
Posts: 4,129
Trader Rating: 102 (100%+)
i would agree...the drivetrain is crazy free...especially after a few runs the bearings will become super smooth.
At first my drivetrain was a bit sluggish....Ron Goetter told me to remove all the shims from the diffs...and wow what a difference..it just rolled forever..virtually zero resistance now.
also don't try and over shim the layshaft...let it have a little play.
also...broke a front arm...one hell of a hard hit..all my fault of course....working on the car was a piece of cake..about 3 minutes to change out an arm and a Chub.
but anyway...the new arms hardly needed any reaming....the hinge pins went right in with very little slop and no binding. Truely a lot less work than the original boxed set.
At first my drivetrain was a bit sluggish....Ron Goetter told me to remove all the shims from the diffs...and wow what a difference..it just rolled forever..virtually zero resistance now.
also don't try and over shim the layshaft...let it have a little play.
also...broke a front arm...one hell of a hard hit..all my fault of course....working on the car was a piece of cake..about 3 minutes to change out an arm and a Chub.
but anyway...the new arms hardly needed any reaming....the hinge pins went right in with very little slop and no binding. Truely a lot less work than the original boxed set.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
ttt
for anyone that cares . . .
I "fixed" my servo saver issue by using the small kimbrough servo saver, some imagination, and screwing a bit of lexan to it to extend its reach. At first I did it for fitment testing in plans to use it as a template for some CF, but its short enough I don't think I'll need it. Its super stiff as short as it is. The servo saver gives way before the lexan would flex. This also allows me to move my servo horn ball stud up another 3mm to accomodate the 3mm I shimmed the steering bell crank up to clear my LiPo. All I have left to do to bring the steering geometry back to stock is get the longer ball studs and shim the ones on the front end of the track rod down 3 mm and Ill be good as new and able to run NiMh and Lipo. This is even with the longest track rod BTW.
AWD
for anyone that cares . . .
I "fixed" my servo saver issue by using the small kimbrough servo saver, some imagination, and screwing a bit of lexan to it to extend its reach. At first I did it for fitment testing in plans to use it as a template for some CF, but its short enough I don't think I'll need it. Its super stiff as short as it is. The servo saver gives way before the lexan would flex. This also allows me to move my servo horn ball stud up another 3mm to accomodate the 3mm I shimmed the steering bell crank up to clear my LiPo. All I have left to do to bring the steering geometry back to stock is get the longer ball studs and shim the ones on the front end of the track rod down 3 mm and Ill be good as new and able to run NiMh and Lipo. This is even with the longest track rod BTW.
AWD
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
ttt
for anyone that cares . . .
I "fixed" my servo saver issue by using the small kimbrough servo saver, some imagination, and screwing a bit of lexan to it to extend its reach. At first I did it for fitment testing in plans to use it as a template for some CF, but its short enough I don't think I'll need it. Its super stiff as short as it is. The servo saver gives way before the lexan would flex. This also allows me to move my servo horn ball stud up another 3mm to accomodate the 3mm I shimmed the steering bell crank up to clear my LiPo. All I have left to do to bring the steering geometry back to stock is get the longer ball studs and shim the ones on the front end of the track rod down 3 mm and Ill be good as new and able to run NiMh and Lipo. This is even with the longest track rod BTW.
AWD
for anyone that cares . . .
I "fixed" my servo saver issue by using the small kimbrough servo saver, some imagination, and screwing a bit of lexan to it to extend its reach. At first I did it for fitment testing in plans to use it as a template for some CF, but its short enough I don't think I'll need it. Its super stiff as short as it is. The servo saver gives way before the lexan would flex. This also allows me to move my servo horn ball stud up another 3mm to accomodate the 3mm I shimmed the steering bell crank up to clear my LiPo. All I have left to do to bring the steering geometry back to stock is get the longer ball studs and shim the ones on the front end of the track rod down 3 mm and Ill be good as new and able to run NiMh and Lipo. This is even with the longest track rod BTW.
AWD
general - regarding the track rod options:
1) length: the longer the rod, the faster the steering, and more throw it will have w/o changing anything else. for a accurate comparison, you'll have to adjust your epa/dual rate to account for the change in lateral swing. if you were at full lock with the kit (long) rod, going shorter will require you to add steering travel in order to get to full lock again.
2) width: the wider the spacing, the more scrub (ackermann angle) is induced durring steering travel. the general concensus is that the narrow spacing (smaller ackermann angle) increases turn-in, and high speed steering, while the wider spacing yields a smoother car, that wraps low speed (tight) turns a little better.
compared to the mi2/ec the new bellcrank geometry is generally much quicker. it might be worth mentioning that there is a point of diminishing returns, which i think andrew could accidentally be approaching.
Tech Master
iTrader: (74)
If you want to run a servo saver just run the Kimborough medium and you won't have to make any modifications. It's a tiny bit shorter than the kit stock but you don't have to alter anything to make it work and the steering geometry should be the same as well.
Skiddins
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (9)
On the topic of the servo saver. I have to say that I was more worried about this than anybody. And after looking at all the options, I decided to try running the car without the servo saver. And I have to tell you that you really don't need one. I've taken a couple hard hits and have suffered no damage at all. In fact, I don't even remember that I'm not running a servo saver until someone brings it up here.
the 2.5mm chassis was supposed to have a longer recess under the servo so that we could run the kimbrough large saver and slide the servo back to facilitate mounting the ball from the front side of the saver, clearing all possible top deck options. this would have been a nice setup for carpet racing (or any 2x4 barrier tracks).
- craig turek -
Tech Master
iTrader: (80)
I am considering buying the Mi3 (vs Associated FT TC5) for asphalt/rubber racing. I want to get a car that is setup for asphalt racing out of the box as much as possible and doesnt need alot of extra parts and something that is easy to maintain, clean, and take apart if parts need to be fixed. Like i said, the Mi3 and the FT TC5 are my first two choices.
What parts are necessary for the Mi3 to be competitive on asphalt? I am sure that you can run the stock parts but is a 2.5mm chassis and 2.5mm top deck available and necessary for adjustability?
Any help would be much appreciated.
What parts are necessary for the Mi3 to be competitive on asphalt? I am sure that you can run the stock parts but is a 2.5mm chassis and 2.5mm top deck available and necessary for adjustability?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Super Moderator
iTrader: (239)
I am considering buying the Mi3 (vs Associated FT TC5) for asphalt/rubber racing. I want to get a car that is setup for asphalt racing out of the box as much as possible and doesnt need alot of extra parts and something that is easy to maintain, clean, and take apart if parts need to be fixed. Like i said, the Mi3 and the FT TC5 are my first two choices.
What parts are necessary for the Mi3 to be competitive on asphalt? I am sure that you can run the stock parts but is a 2.5mm chassis and 2.5mm top deck available and necessary for adjustability?
Any help would be much appreciated.
What parts are necessary for the Mi3 to be competitive on asphalt? I am sure that you can run the stock parts but is a 2.5mm chassis and 2.5mm top deck available and necessary for adjustability?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (9)
I am considering buying the Mi3 (vs Associated FT TC5) for asphalt/rubber racing. I want to get a car that is setup for asphalt racing out of the box as much as possible and doesnt need alot of extra parts and something that is easy to maintain, clean, and take apart if parts need to be fixed. Like i said, the Mi3 and the FT TC5 are my first two choices.
What parts are necessary for the Mi3 to be competitive on asphalt? I am sure that you can run the stock parts but is a 2.5mm chassis and 2.5mm top deck available and necessary for adjustability?
Any help would be much appreciated.
What parts are necessary for the Mi3 to be competitive on asphalt? I am sure that you can run the stock parts but is a 2.5mm chassis and 2.5mm top deck available and necessary for adjustability?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Most people are just taking the car and putting the PW asphalt setup on the car to start and working from there. And you don't need any extras to do that.