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Old 08-18-2010, 08:56 AM
  #991  
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Originally Posted by Akudou
From my experience, there is no difference as i am using it on orion 11.5T. The mkII did cog on it but not as bad as the MKIII
Is that correct ? You have had more cogging with MKIII the newer version than on MKII? Thought the MKIII would have resolved some of that and run cooler?
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Old 08-18-2010, 12:55 PM
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Yes, since over here our stock spec is 11.5t, i have tried orion and speed passion motor, any boost above 3, the motor will start to cogg. Team powers old version motor without adjustable endbell timing will not cogg but then cant keep up with hobbywings supercharge firmware or Tekin Rs Pro.


Originally Posted by Johnn27
Is that correct ? You have had more cogging with MKIII the newer version than on MKII? Thought the MKIII would have resolved some of that and run cooler?
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Old 08-18-2010, 01:50 PM
  #993  
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Originally Posted by Akudou
Yes, since over here our stock spec is 11.5t, i have tried orion and speed passion motor, any boost above 3, the motor will start to cogg. Team powers old version motor without adjustable endbell timing will not cogg but then cant keep up with hobbywings supercharge firmware or Tekin Rs Pro.
Turn your boost down 1 and go 1 tooth bigger on the pinion or start from scratch and turn the boost down to one and keep changing your pinion until its fast, then advance your boost one step at a time until you get cog again. The SP max advance is 10 which is workable with the speed control, the orion dont go over 2 marks on the advance side, but again, you could start at 0 on those and find good gear, then go up on boost. Its a bit of work, but this thing works very well when you hit the right gear and boost combo. I too felt that MK3 was worse than MK2 for cog, but now I think its faster, but harder to find the sweet spot. I think once you get a idea of what the speed control is telling you by the cog, it could be a easier one to tune to, opposed to all that wild input needed on the other makes of speed controls. Oh and any thing over 7 boost is just asking for heat problems.
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Old 08-18-2010, 02:00 PM
  #994  
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Have tried all that before and like i said, couldnt keep up with Tekin and HW and its been giving us local here a headache cos in some regional stock class races, there tend to be handout motor and during those duration between practise and qualifying, i doubt there will be enough time to hit the sweet spot plus we are not allowed to adjust the endbell timing at all. As for the locals here, no one uses it for 11.5T stock class no more as everyone else is using it for lower turn motor.. Thanks for the tip tho. Will ask the local rc'ers here who still has it to try it out As for me, its been 4 months of hardwork but no results in the end.


Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
Turn your boost down 1 and go 1 tooth bigger on the pinion or start from scratch and turn the boost down to one and keep changing your pinion until its fast, then advance your boost one step at a time until you get cog again. The SP max advance is 10 which is workable with the speed control, the orion dont go over 2 marks on the advance side, but again, you could start at 0 on those and find good gear, then go up on boost. Its a bit of work, but this thing works very well when you hit the right gear and boost combo. I too felt that MK3 was worse than MK2 for cog, but now I think its faster, but harder to find the sweet spot. I think once you get a idea of what the speed control is telling you by the cog, it could be a easier one to tune to, opposed to all that wild input needed on the other makes of speed controls. Oh and any thing over 7 boost is just asking for heat problems.
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Old 08-18-2010, 02:08 PM
  #995  
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Originally Posted by Akudou
Have tried all that before and like i said, couldnt keep up with Tekin and HW and its been giving us local here a headache that no one uses it for 11.5T class no more. Now everyone else is using it for lower turn motor.. Thanks for the tip tho. Will ask the local rc'ers here who still has it to try it out As for me, its been 4 months of hardwork but no results in the end.
I know what you mean, I pretty much gave up on this one, but got more frustrated with the alternative. Put the SXXSS back in played around with it a couple of races and yesterday set a lap record by a lot, and set a track record, all by fluke. Its a pia, but its so sweet when its on.

I knew it was close the week before, so basically showed up this week, turned my feel back two points and wow.
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Old 08-18-2010, 02:12 PM
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Mind sharing your motor brand, fdr and setting on your esc? Hope to help out the locals who still hold hope on the LRP.

Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
I know what you mean, I pretty much gave up on this one, but got more frustrated with the alternative. Put the SXXSS back in played around with it a couple of races and yesterday set a lap record by a lot, and set a track record, all by fluke. Its a pia, but its so sweet when its on.
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Old 08-18-2010, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Akudou
Mind sharing your motor brand, fdr and setting on your esc? Hope to help out the locals who still hold hope on the LRP.
I'll pm you when I get home.
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Old 08-18-2010, 02:26 PM
  #998  
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Thanks. Just to get it straight, The orion motor that i tried the mk3 on uses all the lowest setting frm feel, boost, min endbell, max endbell,etc and even during bench test on very low finger throttle, the motor is already cogging..

Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
I'll pm you when I get home.
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Old 08-18-2010, 03:15 PM
  #999  
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Originally Posted by Akudou
Thanks. Just to get it straight, The orion motor that i tried the mk3 on uses all the lowest setting frm feel, boost, min endbell, max endbell,etc and even during bench test on very low finger throttle, the motor is already cogging..
This will sound like a broken record. Did you try a different sensor cable? Did you try the motor on a different speed control? Is the capacitor in good condition? This sounds like a sensor cable or sensor board problem as cog is usually only on track, never had one so bad it did it on bench. One last thing, you do get the 3 beeps on power up (MK3 software confirmation)
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Old 08-18-2010, 03:22 PM
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It is a broken record. All the suggestions below have been tried. Sensor cables of different lengths from Lrp, hobbywing,muchmore,etc. Capacitors are working fine. Motor works great on Hobbywings Xerun, Tekin Rs Pro,etc.
Yes, 3 beeps on startup. Sensorboard problem doesnt seem to have any problem with other different motors esp lower turn. It just couldnt cope with 11.5T thats why im still upset about the mk3 that im on the verge of letting it go at less than half the price of what im gettin it for. Never race on it yet at all.

Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
This will sound like a broken record. Did you try a different sensor cable? Did you try the motor on a different speed control? Is the capacitor in good condition? This sounds like a sensor cable or sensor board problem as cog is usually only on track, never had one so bad it did it on bench. One last thing, you do get the 3 beeps on power up (MK3 software confirmation)
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Old 08-18-2010, 03:26 PM
  #1001  
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Originally Posted by Akudou
It is a broken record. All the suggestions below have been tried. Sensor cables of different lengths from Lrp, hobbywing,muchmore,etc. Capacitors are working fine. Motor works great on Hobbywings Xerun, Tekin Rs Pro,etc.
Yes, 3 beeps on startup. Sensorboard problem doesnt seem to have any problem with other different motors esp lower turn. It just couldnt cope with 11.5T thats why im still upset about the mk3 that im on the verge of letting it go at less than half the price of what im gettin it for. Never race on it yet at all.
How close to the sensors are the rotor when you do a loose assembly? Any idea what the guass of the rotor is? Which Orion motor, I could try to simulate problem.
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Old 08-18-2010, 03:34 PM
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LRP did email me before Brunei's FEMCA ISTC 2010 race regarding the sensors to be adjusted from the rotor. But rules of the race was that the motor musnt be meddle around with, even the timing cant be meddle with. So i didnt use the SS for the race. After the race i adjusted the sensors from the rotor as adviced by LRP... still same problem occured. The motor is Orion Vortex Pro Stock 11.5T. The motor rips nicely on a Tekin and hobbywing but on the mk3 its

Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
How close to the sensors are the rotor when you do a loose assembly? Any idea what the guass of the rotor is? Which Orion motor, I could try to simulate problem.
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Old 08-18-2010, 08:58 PM
  #1003  
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Originally Posted by Johnn27
Is that correct ? You have had more cogging with MKIII the newer version than on MKII? Thought the MKIII would have resolved some of that and run cooler?
Well, I run 17.5 and I started out with an lrp x-12 17.5 and the x-12 thermaled on the first warm-up lap. I then went back to my Team Epic Duo 2 17.5 and I am up to boost 7 and feel six with no problems at all. I even run a FDR at about a 4 more or less and the car is ballistic fast yet smooth and not too hot. Thats why I am so surprised. I even contemplate going to boost 8.
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Old 08-19-2010, 12:30 PM
  #1004  
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just thought i would post . I ran 10.5 in my world gt with 10.5 x12 motor.

The motor was 4 dot timing and my settings were 0,7,5,0 geared 38/98 and i felt like the car was stupid fast. But i am not sure how it will finish right now. Still working on that.

Mike
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Old 08-19-2010, 02:26 PM
  #1005  
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
I'll pm you when I get home.
Gary, I would like to know too please.

Originally Posted by Mike Blackstock
just thought i would post . I ran 10.5 in my world gt with 10.5 x12 motor.

The motor was 4 dot timing and my settings were 0,7,5,0 geared 38/98 and i felt like the car was stupid fast. But i am not sure how it will finish right now. Still working on that.

Mike
Mike, what tire sizes were you running and the FDR range you're aiming for?

Thanks,

Ivan
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