MT 12 Engine info.
#16
Originally posted by Motorman
.3mm is standard and what comes on both engines stock it is alumunium and .010 thousanths thick. .1MM is copper and is what you would use to make head adjustments with it is .003 thousanths thick.
.3mm is standard and what comes on both engines stock it is alumunium and .010 thousanths thick. .1MM is copper and is what you would use to make head adjustments with it is .003 thousanths thick.
#18
Tech Adept
What i heard from my Lhs was that if you purchase a turbo head.. it doesnt really make it a Turbo because you still need the crank to be Turbo.. i dont know about that but you might want to ask Motorman for that advice..
Motorman you can take this.............
Motorman you can take this.............
#19
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
well ya you kinda have a half turbo but each component adds its contribution. Personally the crank is more important than the head as (and here we go this is just my opinion) Turbo plugs on a 12 engine provide a dubious contribution to power at best.
15's and 21's are another story
you can get by with stock head clerance on an MT (.018 thousanths) on 30 percent nitro yet above 85 degrees I recommend adding .003 (thats thousanths not MM) to get .021 MM head clearence. This will aid engine cooling.
PS always use a alumunium head shim against the liner if you can get one. If you have to add additional copper shims put them between the alumunium shim and the head button. Keep the alumunium one against the liner. This goes for 21's too
15's and 21's are another story
you can get by with stock head clerance on an MT (.018 thousanths) on 30 percent nitro yet above 85 degrees I recommend adding .003 (thats thousanths not MM) to get .021 MM head clearence. This will aid engine cooling.
PS always use a alumunium head shim against the liner if you can get one. If you have to add additional copper shims put them between the alumunium shim and the head button. Keep the alumunium one against the liner. This goes for 21's too
Last edited by Motorman; 03-27-2002 at 09:45 PM.
#20
Tech Elite
Originally posted by Motorman
.................................................. ....................PS always use a alumunium head shim against the liner if you can get one. If you have to add additional copper shims put them between the alumunium shim and the head button. Keep the alumunium one against the liner. This goes for 21's too
.................................................. ....................PS always use a alumunium head shim against the liner if you can get one. If you have to add additional copper shims put them between the alumunium shim and the head button. Keep the alumunium one against the liner. This goes for 21's too
Why? Don't get mad. Not a challenge, just a question for my own education. Thank you Dennis.
Note:
[Have to explain everytime I post now since everyone seems to take what I post wrong]
#21
Originally posted by Motorman
well ya you kinda have a half turbo but each component adds its contribution. Personally the crank is more important than the head as (and here we go this is just my opinion) Turbo plugs on a 12 engine provide a dubious contribution to power at best.
15's and 21's are another story
you can get by with stock head clerance on an MT (.018 thousanths) on 30 percent nitro yet above 85 degrees I recommend adding .003 (thats thousanths not MM) to get .021 MM head clearence. This will aid engine cooling.
PS always use a alumunium head shim against the liner if you can get one. If you have to add additional copper shims put them between the alumunium shim and the head button. Keep the alumunium one against the liner. This goes for 21's too
well ya you kinda have a half turbo but each component adds its contribution. Personally the crank is more important than the head as (and here we go this is just my opinion) Turbo plugs on a 12 engine provide a dubious contribution to power at best.
15's and 21's are another story
you can get by with stock head clerance on an MT (.018 thousanths) on 30 percent nitro yet above 85 degrees I recommend adding .003 (thats thousanths not MM) to get .021 MM head clearence. This will aid engine cooling.
PS always use a alumunium head shim against the liner if you can get one. If you have to add additional copper shims put them between the alumunium shim and the head button. Keep the alumunium one against the liner. This goes for 21's too
#22
Adding more power to MT12
Using a turbo head will add a lil bit of power. Try buying a turbo serpent crankshaft it will add a lot of power more torque and your engine will last for 8 to 9 mins running without refueling.
#23
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Re: Adding more power to MT12
Originally posted by SioKoy
........... your engine will last for 8 to 9 mins running without refueling.
........... your engine will last for 8 to 9 mins running without refueling.
I was always under the impression that by "porting or modifying" you are makeing the engine more fuel hungry.... meaning it will drink more? Is this true?? Or by doing such mods are you creating a better air/fuel mix?
Rich
#24
Re: Re: Adding more power to MT12
Originally posted by Hard Jokur
I was always under the impression that by "porting or modifying" you are makeing the engine more fuel hungry.... meaning it will drink more? Is this true?? Or by doing such mods are you creating a better air/fuel mix?
Rich
I was always under the impression that by "porting or modifying" you are makeing the engine more fuel hungry.... meaning it will drink more? Is this true?? Or by doing such mods are you creating a better air/fuel mix?
Rich
#28
Check the Tech Tips section on Paris Racing's webpage. It's a Novarossi based engine, so use those instructions.
http://www.parisracing.com/tipspage.htm
http://www.parisracing.com/tipspage.htm