Paul L

Hi ED!, I have not used the tires yet. sorry.


Great, No problem.
Im glad that you got it all figured out.
Thanks

franc furter

iTrader: (1)

Hey Paul, have you tried running 6deg castor blocks on the t3 11? I noticed you ran them on some of your older setups. What do you feel the difference is in running 4deg versus 6deg? Thanks!

Chris08527

iTrader: (16)

hey paul,
which servo and receiver are you running and is it compatible with the 3pk?

gonzo416

iTrader: (39)

Paul, i would like to know how you were able to have 4.5mm shims on the rear uprights on your iic setup? When I tried it the screw would hit the wheel. You also say the camber link is placed on the diff cover. How were you able to do that?

rocca30

Paul i hope your little man gets everything he s been wanting, anthony wants me to bring him to the birds to c paul lemieux, hehe. c ya soon have a great Christmas. c ya ralph

Paul L

I havent tried 6s on this car. 6s will have more steering and make the front end of the car roll more. The 2011 car has always had pleanty of steering and lots of roll for me. so right now i dont have a set up for the 6deg caster blocks but maybe for the future.


Hi, Im running the R614FF reciever and the bls551 servo right now. I dont know for sure weather it is compatable, Ill look in to it. Thanks


Hi, i use the optional ball cups and ball studs for my camberlinks, this will free up a little room, and it is possible that your wheel is smaller than what i was running with that set up.
On my my most current carpet set up I did not use the modified camber link, i used the stock camber links. but for asphalt i almost always use modified front link, to do that i thread a ball stud threw the back of the lowest set of holes for the shock tower, then use a ball cup, depending on the ball stud used you may have to use a shim behind the ball studs so the ball end dosent bind on the shock tower mounts.

Thanks

I think Chase will do ok, lol. you better bring him to the birds, you guys Too!!.

Paul L

MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYBODY!!!!!!!

Xpress

iTrader: (3)

Which one of us is bringing the Sprecher to Florida?

Drew Ellis

Happy Holidays from everyone at RCAmerica.

Thanks Drew

ByteStream

iTrader: (2)

Hi Paul,

I have a couple of questions ..

1. I've started to see alot of setups that are using the 50mm drive shafts front and rear, what does that do for the car in terms of handling?

2. For the shims that you use for the camber links (hub side front and rear), it seems that the rear always has more shims than the front, is there a reason that almost all setups are this way?

3. For track-width, is there a difference in adding shims to the bulkheads vs. using offset wheel hubs? For instance, in your cleveland setup you have the front shimmed out 2.25 per side as well as using the +0.75 offsets, could you have shimmed it out to 3.0 instead and not use the offsets? or do they address different things in terms of handling.

4. On the T3'11 setup sheets, where it specifies Flex, there is a box that says "ECCenter" with options for "Standard" and "1", what adjustment is that refering to?

Thanks in advance.

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

Hi Paul. Awesome thread as always. With regards to rebuilding ball diffs and in particular the grease used. Ive watched the Jilles RedRc diff build video but im wondering your thoughts on rebuilding and what you do in particular. In your opinion what is too much and what is too little grease when rebuilding? What parts will you automatically bin? Any tips on running in a fresh built diff? Thoughts are appreciated. Regards Benzaah.

Paul L

iether you or we can find some while we are their.

Hi!

1: i feel like the 50mm driveshafts make the car more responsive, the 52s make the car smoother. in my poinion the car is easier to drive with the 52's but faster with the 50s. from a theory standpiont im not really sure why, but i think a shorter drive shaft has more bind do to a greater change in angle threw suspension travel and possibly more leverage over the suspension threw power transfer. ?

2: Not really, i just always tune the shimms on the outer link for camber gain, if you only used 2mms on the rear with the L1's you would not have hardly any camber gain. The L1s and H1s put the inside point of the camber links pretty high so more shims need to be added to the outside to complement the inner point being high.

3: yes their is a big difference between the 2 ways of making the car wider for the front and rear.
for carpet i like the way the +75s feel on the front, it allows me to drive the car harder in to the corner and almost slide the front end in. with tuening the hexes you are changing the width of the car but more importantly you are changing the "scrub" or the wheel base of the inside tire VS the outside tire.
example: lets say you have +100mm hexs (lol), then turn the wheels, the outside contact patch would sweep and be out side and infront of the body somewhere and the inside tire would sweep back and be way back somewhere outside of the battery.

4: I beleive that is reffering to the diff height, we have 0 and +1. so we have 4 different diff positions (0's down and up, and +1 down and up. so basicly you are changing your dog bone angle at ride height. i normally use +1high in the front and 0's high in the back. for foam with a very small tire we would use a lower setting to get the dog bone angle back in a good place for that tire size.

No problem, Thanks!


Hi.
For me a fresh diff if rebuilt properly is always better. even if the diff feels good after a few runs it is always best fresh built. The thrust is always key to getting a good diff, the thrust bears just as much load as the main balls and rings and is much smaller so it has the biggest challange in front of it.
when i rebuild a diff i always use a fresh thrust greased with xray graphite grease or associated black grease, the thrust dosent need to have and Grip it just needs to be as smooth as possible and compinsate for diff action.
The balls and rings need to have Grip on eachother, i use 600 to 1000 grit samd paper on my rings, i use the female outdrive and sand each ring untill the previous groove from the balls is gone, best to sand it in circles then a fugure 8 on the sand paper so you will have small grooves running in all directions across the ring from the sand paper. the sand paper is used so the diff balls get better traction on the ring to prevent slipping, the best diff lube for me is the associated stealth lube, it has small particles in it to once again form better traction between the balls and rings. in which i use a small dab on each ball.

All in all the diff needs to not slip under power. For example once i thought i was super smart (lol) so i polished my diff rings and found a really slippery grease for the balls, the result was that i had to tighten the diff so much to prevent it from slipping under power that A it was super tight feeling once i tightened it not slip and B it put so much more preasure on my thrust and it killed the thrust bearing almost instantly.

hope this helps!

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Hi Paul, hope Xmas and holidays are going well for you and yours. Here you may be coming up North for a visit, hope the weather co-operates for that one.

Any how, about diffs. If the thrust washer is the weak point, what if a person tried to do a similar thrust setup like in 1/12th and eliminate it completely using a real bearing and a load cone washer instead? Any thoughts?

Thanks

Paul L

Hi!, i have seen TC diffs like that but it is not a good solution do to a bearing performing very poorly under side load, even in 12th scale i prefer a thrust assymbly over the standard bearing. the best help in my opinion would be a larger thrust assymbly, or a gear diff

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

Thanks for that Paul. I am a big fan of the associated grease as well. From what you have just said i probably dont rebuild often enough and I use way to much grease so i will ease of it next build and see how that goes. Regards Benzaah