Ask Paul Lemieux, RC America/MOTIV/Gravity RC
#1967
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
I just got a new TP 820cd and I'm having issues getting it to charge a 1s lipo. It keeps giving me a "check battery connection" error. I've tried multiple batteries and connections and it gives the same error every time. It has the latest firmware already. Any suggestions?
Last edited by Csaari77; 12-15-2012 at 10:09 AM.
#1968
I just got a new TP 820cd and I'm having issues getting it to charge a 1s lipo. It keeps giving me a "check battery connection" error. I've tried multiple batteries and connections and it gives the same error every time. It has the latest firmware already. Any suggestions?
#1970
Tell me what it means when ur tires r squealing . I my self seem to run faster when my tires r screeching coming out of the corners . But the fastest guy here (on carpet) said its scrubbing corner speed . And his car is dead silent... can u comment about a this tks paul
Thanks
Speaking of loose is fast...
I'm running a T3'12 in VTA. I like that is is loose, but in the later minutes of the main it gets a little too loose to the point it does slow. I need to tighten up the rear just a little. What kind of change could I make to just tighten it a little?
I'm running a T3'12 in VTA. I like that is is loose, but in the later minutes of the main it gets a little too loose to the point it does slow. I need to tighten up the rear just a little. What kind of change could I make to just tighten it a little?
Possible set up changes: less front camber, more rear camber, more rear toe, move weight forward. also shorter front wheelbase, but compinsate with steering links for the ackermann change. example: 1mm shorter front wheelbase, take out 1mm shims from your steering bell crank.
Good luck!
In a nut shell, it gives more steering. the disadvantage is that the car will have less forward traction and stability coming out of the corner.
#1972
As you said tire choice is key for me on this subject now, normally i will use a soft front tire, this way you can kinda charge a corner and slow the car down with the soft front rubber. i dont know how to explain it well but i feel like a soft front tire is less edgy to begin with, this allows me to use more wheel throw entering a corner to help slow it down, you can almost slide the front end in and slow it down that way. At least I was successfull with this method last year at the birds, but for sure the bar is always being raised (Kevin hebert especially) so i dont know how effective this method will be moving forward. if you ask Kevin, you can copy and paist his answer here
#1973
Tech Elite
iTrader: (37)
Paul as always tks for answering my questions .
I have yet another , let me set the stage.... traction is coming up thru out the day ...
Theirs a small bump 15' from the sweeper.
As I let off the throttle to turn into sweeper (gently ) rear end comes around ( ur Cleveland set up)but not every time . If I stay inthrottle it holds but being lane is only 6' wide and sweeper isnt ideally curved ..... I'm not wanting to risk the high speed wreck...
I moved the rear inner to mid role center and removed .5camber (now at -1.5) if I come out of throttle any little bit car wants to lift and traction role if I stay in it it works great .
What other things could I have done to either keep it from TRing or being so loose ? Is it the bump upsetting the car ? I know just staying in it would be the fastest as Jim persol and skip darsky and the other oil pros did but its not worth the risk for me . I would rather be .2 slower and be consistent vs be fast on 28 laps and wreck the other 5... sorry to drag the question out . Tks
I have yet another , let me set the stage.... traction is coming up thru out the day ...
Theirs a small bump 15' from the sweeper.
As I let off the throttle to turn into sweeper (gently ) rear end comes around ( ur Cleveland set up)but not every time . If I stay inthrottle it holds but being lane is only 6' wide and sweeper isnt ideally curved ..... I'm not wanting to risk the high speed wreck...
I moved the rear inner to mid role center and removed .5camber (now at -1.5) if I come out of throttle any little bit car wants to lift and traction role if I stay in it it works great .
What other things could I have done to either keep it from TRing or being so loose ? Is it the bump upsetting the car ? I know just staying in it would be the fastest as Jim persol and skip darsky and the other oil pros did but its not worth the risk for me . I would rather be .2 slower and be consistent vs be fast on 28 laps and wreck the other 5... sorry to drag the question out . Tks
#1974
Paul as always tks for answering my questions .
I have yet another , let me set the stage.... traction is coming up thru out the day ...
Theirs a small bump 15' from the sweeper.
As I let off the throttle to turn into sweeper (gently ) rear end comes around ( ur Cleveland set up)but not every time . If I stay inthrottle it holds but being lane is only 6' wide and sweeper isnt ideally curved ..... I'm not wanting to risk the high speed wreck...
I moved the rear inner to mid role center and removed .5camber (now at -1.5) if I come out of throttle any little bit car wants to lift and traction role if I stay in it it works great .
What other things could I have done to either keep it from TRing or being so loose ? Is it the bump upsetting the car ? I know just staying in it would be the fastest as Jim persol and skip darsky and the other oil pros did but its not worth the risk for me . I would rather be .2 slower and be consistent vs be fast on 28 laps and wreck the other 5... sorry to drag the question out . Tks
I have yet another , let me set the stage.... traction is coming up thru out the day ...
Theirs a small bump 15' from the sweeper.
As I let off the throttle to turn into sweeper (gently ) rear end comes around ( ur Cleveland set up)but not every time . If I stay inthrottle it holds but being lane is only 6' wide and sweeper isnt ideally curved ..... I'm not wanting to risk the high speed wreck...
I moved the rear inner to mid role center and removed .5camber (now at -1.5) if I come out of throttle any little bit car wants to lift and traction role if I stay in it it works great .
What other things could I have done to either keep it from TRing or being so loose ? Is it the bump upsetting the car ? I know just staying in it would be the fastest as Jim persol and skip darsky and the other oil pros did but its not worth the risk for me . I would rather be .2 slower and be consistent vs be fast on 28 laps and wreck the other 5... sorry to drag the question out . Tks
First off I wouldnt worry much about the bump, anytime i start tuening a car for a bump it ends badly. I think that lowering the rear roll center was likely the right move, I think where you went wrong was taking static camber out of the rear, I would go back to 2deg or even 2.5deg of rear camber. secondly i would move your rear wing back on the body, this will plant the rear end at high speeds and also reduce traction roll signifigantly threw the sweeper, even 2mms will make a difference. On top of that i would try a thinner front bar, 1.3 from a 1.4mm bar will make the car more predictible do to the suspension travel not running in to the sway bar as much, especially with this set up BC the front does roll a lot. I dont have a 1.3mm front bar for the T4 yet but it might be availible.
That stuff should really help.
Thanks
#1975
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Hi. Currently I do not run drag brake, but honestly with as fast as the cars keep going it may become or already be nessissary.
As you said tire choice is key for me on this subject now, normally i will use a soft front tire, this way you can kinda charge a corner and slow the car down with the soft front rubber. i dont know how to explain it well but i feel like a soft front tire is less edgy to begin with, this allows me to use more wheel throw entering a corner to help slow it down, you can almost slide the front end in and slow it down that way. At least I was successfull with this method last year at the birds, but for sure the bar is always being raised (Kevin hebert especially) so i dont know how effective this method will be moving forward. if you ask Kevin, you can copy and paist his answer here
As you said tire choice is key for me on this subject now, normally i will use a soft front tire, this way you can kinda charge a corner and slow the car down with the soft front rubber. i dont know how to explain it well but i feel like a soft front tire is less edgy to begin with, this allows me to use more wheel throw entering a corner to help slow it down, you can almost slide the front end in and slow it down that way. At least I was successfull with this method last year at the birds, but for sure the bar is always being raised (Kevin hebert especially) so i dont know how effective this method will be moving forward. if you ask Kevin, you can copy and paist his answer here
Originally Posted by Marx View Post
hi keven!!
very great show at the IIC! Congratulation!
May I ask you to indicate your Flow speedo setup in 1/12th scale?
I'm interested to understand the setup did you use in Las Vesas and Heemstede.
I can't find them anywhere.
TY
hi keven!!
very great show at the IIC! Congratulation!
May I ask you to indicate your Flow speedo setup in 1/12th scale?
I'm interested to understand the setup did you use in Las Vesas and Heemstede.
I can't find them anywhere.
TY
Originally Posted by KevenH
Marx
Thank you. There is 2 setting I know works great. With the LRP motor 4.0, I used the Spec rotor that comes in the spec motor, not the works one. That seemed to be the fastest and most efficient. Than for ESC setting, I run a lot of drag brake so that you would have to adjust to your liking but here it go : 7/1/3/3/7/1/0 and with Reedy Motor 3.5 stock rotor, I ran 7/3/0/4/8/2/0
Marx
Thank you. There is 2 setting I know works great. With the LRP motor 4.0, I used the Spec rotor that comes in the spec motor, not the works one. That seemed to be the fastest and most efficient. Than for ESC setting, I run a lot of drag brake so that you would have to adjust to your liking but here it go : 7/1/3/3/7/1/0 and with Reedy Motor 3.5 stock rotor, I ran 7/3/0/4/8/2/0
#1976
Tech Elite
iTrader: (37)
HI Justin. no problem.
First off I wouldnt worry much about the bump, anytime i start tuening a car for a bump it ends badly. I think that lowering the rear roll center was likely the right move, I think where you went wrong was taking static camber out of the rear, I would go back to 2deg or even 2.5deg of rear camber. secondly i would move your rear wing back on the body, this will plant the rear end at high speeds and also reduce traction roll signifigantly threw the sweeper, even 2mms will make a difference. On top of that i would try a thinner front bar, 1.3 from a 1.4mm bar will make the car more predictible do to the suspension travel not running in to the sway bar as much, especially with this set up BC the front does roll a lot. I dont have a 1.3mm front bar for the T4 yet but it might be availible.
That stuff should really help.
Thanks
First off I wouldnt worry much about the bump, anytime i start tuening a car for a bump it ends badly. I think that lowering the rear roll center was likely the right move, I think where you went wrong was taking static camber out of the rear, I would go back to 2deg or even 2.5deg of rear camber. secondly i would move your rear wing back on the body, this will plant the rear end at high speeds and also reduce traction roll signifigantly threw the sweeper, even 2mms will make a difference. On top of that i would try a thinner front bar, 1.3 from a 1.4mm bar will make the car more predictible do to the suspension travel not running in to the sway bar as much, especially with this set up BC the front does roll a lot. I dont have a 1.3mm front bar for the T4 yet but it might be availible.
That stuff should really help.
Thanks
Never thought of the rear wing location ...
With the added role in the front with thinner sway bar would it drag more in the fast corners ?
Just trying to understand the changes so I can apply more confidently in various situations .
Since again thanks paul
#1978
Kool tks so if I grasp the concept of allowing the front to role more wile off power it will keep it from traction rolling?
Never thought of the rear wing location ...
With the added role in the front with thinner sway bar would it drag more in the fast corners ?
Just trying to understand the changes so I can apply more confidently in various situations .
Since again thanks paul
Never thought of the rear wing location ...
With the added role in the front with thinner sway bar would it drag more in the fast corners ?
Just trying to understand the changes so I can apply more confidently in various situations .
Since again thanks paul
I hope that is a little more clear.
Cool, Thanks
#1980
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
If the car is getting loose only at the end of the run i would pick one of many set up changes that will make the car push a bit more, then i would sauce the front tires more aggressive (either sauce more of the front tire or if already full front, sauce the fronts longer). in making a set up change for less steering then saucing more front tire you should get about the same handling that you like now at the begining of the run, but then at the end of the run when it would normally get loose you should retain the stability with the set up change.
Possible set up changes: less front camber, more rear camber, more rear toe, move weight forward. also shorter front wheelbase, but compinsate with steering links for the ackermann change. example: 1mm shorter front wheelbase, take out 1mm shims from your steering bell crank.