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Old 01-15-2014, 02:18 AM
  #451  
M7H
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Originally Posted by AKRacing
Ok I built the car as per kit instructions, I currently have zero degrees toe, zero degrees camber, 800cst shock oil, I used a thin smear of diff grease on each tube, running 40 shore front and 30 shore rear ulti tyres. The front springs are kit and so is centre shock. I'm currently running 4mm ride height front and rear. I've installed a futaba mini servo for steering duties. I usually do a full application of tyre additive for the rears and only inner 1/3 for the fronts, both around 10 minutes before the race. I'm using an orca rx2 4.0 motor matched to an orca vx1 esc and orca 1s lipo to power it up. Weight balance is slightly bias to battery side. I think that's about it for my setup. My initial thoughts was to increase front ride height, no tyre treatment on the front, remove grease on damper tubes to lighter oil. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Regards, Andrew K
Originally Posted by chicky03
You can try ae black side springs, softer center spring and also flip the ball on the lower front arm and readjust the ride height. All these will help.
Go for the 3 degrees upper arm mounts, stiffer front springs, least amount of camber rise (longest possible upper arm)
Ulti X-type tyres? X Medium rear, and X Hard front?
Rear additive 20 minutes, and front only 5 or even less, and only 1/4 of the inside of the tyres.
Fronts 41.5 - 42mm, rears 43.5 - 44mm
Side tubes, I would put 10.000 in, instead of some diff grease.....

Last edited by M7H; 01-15-2014 at 02:54 AM.
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Old 01-15-2014, 02:48 AM
  #452  
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Thanks for the advice guys, will try a range of these suggestions at the track. I'm currently using XS (soft) rears and XM (medium) fronts. Was thinking of going to XH (hard) fronts. However I see that ulti have a J range designed for asphalt so I'll start all over again I think for tyres. I'm going to rebuild the whole car and double check everything for possible binding or anything of that nature. Also another question, do most people run 14 or 16 guage wire to the motor for better pod movement?

Regards, Andrew K
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Old 01-15-2014, 05:02 AM
  #453  
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I also tried the Ulti "Y" compound, a bit harder and less grip then "X".

I'm driving my S120, in 13.5T blinky, with Ulti XM rear, and XH fronts.
YM rear, and YH fronts where sliding to much, but XM rear, and YH fronts, might do the trick for you, don't know, haven't tried that combination yet.....
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Old 01-15-2014, 07:03 AM
  #454  
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Originally Posted by AKRacing
Thanks for the advice guys, will try a range of these suggestions at the track. I'm currently using XS (soft) rears and XM (medium) fronts. Was thinking of going to XH (hard) fronts. However I see that ulti have a J range designed for asphalt so I'll start all over again I think for tyres. I'm going to rebuild the whole car and double check everything for possible binding or anything of that nature. Also another question, do most people run 14 or 16 guage wire to the motor for better pod movement?

Regards, Andrew K
Ulti J-Range is Pink/Magenta type compound

Are you running on carpet ?
X-Hard Fr
X-Med Rr
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Old 01-15-2014, 01:00 PM
  #455  
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Thanks M7H I'll look into the Y compound fronts, could do the trick. Redbull the track is asphalt with a boral painted surface which increases traction. It's in between low to medium traction if that makes sense.
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Old 01-15-2014, 01:42 PM
  #456  
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Originally Posted by AKRacing
Thanks M7H I'll look into the Y compound fronts, could do the trick. Redbull the track is asphalt with a boral painted surface which increases traction. It's in between low to medium traction if that makes sense.
What is tire wear like
Is it an abrasive surface ?
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Old 01-15-2014, 05:03 PM
  #457  
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Tyre wear is actually really good, over the 8 minutes it's minimal and I'm getting even wear on each corner so I think that's a good sign of a balanced car?? I'm going to try stiffer front springs and loosening up the rear. Following that will increase front ride height. Thanks again guys.

Regards, Andrew K
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Old 01-16-2014, 12:16 PM
  #458  
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Default S120 L to LT conversion

I have an assembled but never run S120L and am looking into upgrading the kit to LT spec with SER411259 Damper Tube Set $40 & SER411263 LT Upgrade kit $100. Are there any other parts I'll need to complete the upgrade from S120L to LT? Is the S120 LTX enough better that I'd be better off spending another $140 and getting that?
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Old 01-16-2014, 12:21 PM
  #459  
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Originally Posted by kineteks
I have an assembled but never run S120L and am looking into upgrading the kit to LT spec with SER411259 Damper Tube Set $40 & SER411263 LT Upgrade kit $100. Are there any other parts I'll need to complete the upgrade from S120L to LT? Is the S120 LTX enough better that I'd be better off spending another $140 and getting that?
PM sent! Check my listing http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ar-1-12-a.html
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Old 02-17-2014, 09:15 AM
  #460  
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Hi guys,

would anybody mind telling me the length (between hole centres) of the sidelink please?

Also, does it have a standard size ball fitment? I am hoping to fit the links to associated pivot balls, and to an X-ray car!

Regards,
Cyclone
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Old 02-17-2014, 09:07 PM
  #461  
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Originally Posted by cyclone
Hi guys,

would anybody mind telling me the length (between hole centres) of the sidelink please?

Also, does it have a standard size ball fitment? I am hoping to fit the links to associated pivot balls, and to an X-ray car!

Regards,
Cyclone
the serpent link is interchangeable with the AE R5 link. (personally I prefer the combination of serpent link and AE pivot ball)
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Old 04-16-2014, 11:00 AM
  #462  
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S100 and S120 took the win at the Utah state championships last weekend in mod 12th and WGT. What a sweet pair of cars.
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Old 04-16-2014, 11:44 AM
  #463  
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Originally Posted by spooky 1
S100 and S120 took the win at the Utah state championships last weekend in mod 12th and WGT. What a sweet pair of cars.
Nice!
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Old 04-16-2014, 03:07 PM
  #464  
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Love the car . Keep up the great work
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Old 05-05-2014, 07:50 PM
  #465  
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