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Old 03-19-2010, 08:40 PM
  #796  
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Originally Posted by Davin
Ok im miffed. At the track tonight running some practice for tomorrow with a fellow racer. He is running the Tekin RS and Im running the MMP. I was running a 5.6 gear ratio with the timing on the motor all the way down and 50 degrees of timing on the speedo. After a 5 minute run the temp on the motor was about 140 to 150 but he was walking me real hard on the straight. his setup was 40 degrees timing and 2 degrees of turbo and the motor timing right in the middle and coming off the track his motor temp was 110. i moved my timing into the middle position and ran it again it definetly faster but the motor was at 204 when I came off after 5 mins. At this point I changed my gearing to what my buddy was running which was right around 6.7 went and ran again the car was noticably slower in the straight and still came off the track with the motor at 190 degrees. My problem is that while im changing gearing and making my car slower he's ramping up timing making his faster and cannot get his motor hotter than 120 degrees no matter what he throws at it. I guess my main question is this. I bought the motor used . If it was overheated in the past could that be causing my problem now? I don't want to buy another 100 dollar motor and have the same problem. Any ideas???
just 1 run of overheating a motor and it can ruin it rendering it useless.

Your run of 204 degrees may make it run hotter and slower from now on, but who knows if the reason your motor ran hot in the first place cos it had been abused before.

I ran a brand new motor last couple of days ago, and it temped at just under 200f. Stupid me, didnt temp it at intervals and just assumed it would be ok considering all I did was change to a new motor. It was quick in its first run, yesterday when I ran it again, it was considerably slower, to the point where it would not be competitive anymore.

so looks like you will need a new motor if you want to keep up with your friend. Sometimes you can get away with just a rotor change on a brushless motor.
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Old 03-20-2010, 04:39 AM
  #797  
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Originally Posted by Davin
Ok im miffed. At the track tonight running some practice for tomorrow with a fellow racer. He is running the Tekin RS and Im running the MMP. I was running a 5.6 gear ratio with the timing on the motor all the way down and 50 degrees of timing on the speedo. After a 5 minute run the temp on the motor was about 140 to 150 but he was walking me real hard on the straight. his setup was 40 degrees timing and 2 degrees of turbo and the motor timing right in the middle and coming off the track his motor temp was 110. i moved my timing into the middle position and ran it again it definetly faster but the motor was at 204 when I came off after 5 mins. At this point I changed my gearing to what my buddy was running which was right around 6.7 went and ran again the car was noticably slower in the straight and still came off the track with the motor at 190 degrees. My problem is that while im changing gearing and making my car slower he's ramping up timing making his faster and cannot get his motor hotter than 120 degrees no matter what he throws at it. I guess my main question is this. I bought the motor used . If it was overheated in the past could that be causing my problem now? I don't want to buy another 100 dollar motor and have the same problem. Any ideas???
Be aware that unless you are comparing apples to apples there could be lots of reasons you are missing performance. Do you have the same motor? Same cooling setup? Same batteries? These three things will result in huge performance gains.
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Old 03-20-2010, 08:31 AM
  #798  
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Originally Posted by TryHard
Forget the CHEAT mode with a mod... go for the SmartSense option, and gear around 8.5-9 to start with... should be a good ball park

HiH
Ed
thanks for the starting point! also when is castle coming out with the software to compete with the tekin v203? or i guess when are they going to add a little more top end cuz the two are close in the infield just not on long striaghts. and curious if they add that feature if it would be adjustable some how on the current field programming card ? just curious?
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Old 03-20-2010, 08:31 PM
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i just picked up a programming card from my local hobbytown , gotta say its actually really cool and idiot proof haha. good work.
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Old 03-20-2010, 08:41 PM
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Im at the end of my rope with these speed controls. Selling them and buying Tekin RS's. I cant run any signifigant amount of timing without seeing 190 plus motor temps. 2 other guys at my track with RS's 50 degrees of timing and another 20 in turbo and they're coming off in the low 120s.



110 dollars a piece shipped!! Less than 2 weeks old with original boxes and documentation . 120 and Ill throw in a free castle link. PM me if interested

Last edited by Davin; 03-20-2010 at 08:51 PM.
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Old 03-22-2010, 01:20 AM
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Had my first day with the mamba outdoors yesterday, running a club day at WLRC.
Car wasn't perfect, although managed to get it a lot better for the last run.. However the mamba performed strong all day long
Had really amazing punch out of the corners, and still maintained top end that's was a match, if not better, than anyone else. Got into trouble a few times coming on the straight, such was the speed difference :s I know this was mostly up against GM's and SXX-ss, so very happy with that.
Settings were;

Motor; X12 10.5t (oooo insert)
Gearing; 7.5FDR
Start power; High
Dead band; smallest
Cheat; On
Cheat timing; 35deg
Start RPM; 10,000
End RPM; 15,000

Motor was coming off around 75-78 at the end of 5mins, no fan. Sounded like a modified down the front straight too, significantly more revs
I did move the start rpm up from my base of 9.5k, as there were some areas of the track I felt the timing kicking in where it wasn't needed.. On that setting, it was coming in at the start of the straight nicely

Did struggle with the brakes unsettling the car in the final, couldn't lean on them hard, or the rear of the car would step out... Would have turned them down, but was in the midst of battling my way up from 10th to 4th

More testing to come next weekend on a bigger track, plenty still to learn and figure out

Ed
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Old 03-22-2010, 03:13 AM
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Those are interesting settings and gearing Ed.I ran the speedo for the first time on saturday and i have to admit I didnt have a clue what I was doing but indoors on carpet i was running an ss novak 10.5 at 6.1 with 6000 to 8000 rpm.It had good top end but no low end grunt although i had the start power at low,would this make much difference?Before I could change anymore settings my laptop packed in.Last time I was at wlrc I was running a novak 10.5 @5.1 ,so your gearing seems vastly different with this speedo.We have a track in Northern Ireland that is very similar in gearing to wlrc so your findings are of great interest to me
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Old 03-22-2010, 07:35 AM
  #803  
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I haven't play with any new setup yet... But I got a new X-12 13.5 motor that I will run this weekend.... and see what I can come up with I know LRP X-12 spec motor have rediculous timing build on them so I have to play with a completely different setup.

I have been running MOD lately and it's a blast no more working on the ESC/Motor just put your batteries in and go fast....
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Old 03-22-2010, 09:18 AM
  #804  
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Originally Posted by Jochim_18
I haven't play with any new setup yet... But I got a new X-12 13.5 motor that I will run this weekend.... and see what I can come up with I know LRP X-12 spec motor have rediculous timing build on them so I have to play with a completely different setup.

I have been running MOD lately and it's a blast no more working on the ESC/Motor just put your batteries in and go fast....
what were your mod settings? if you dont mind me asking.
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Old 03-22-2010, 02:30 PM
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I'm running my MI4LP with GTB/4.5 on mod thats right my trusty old GTB can still get done on MOD class. And I got my MMP/X-12 13.5 on my MI3....

I tried mod with MMP but you have to use smart sense mode with 5-10 degree of ESC timing thats it... is pretty smooth but break is weak....
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Old 03-23-2010, 01:03 AM
  #806  
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Originally Posted by Jochim_18
I'm running my MI4LP with GTB/4.5 on mod thats right my trusty old GTB can still get done on MOD class. And I got my MMP/X-12 13.5 on my MI3....

I tried mod with MMP but you have to use smart sense mode with 5-10 degree of ESC timing thats it... is pretty smooth but break is weak....
Brakes would be weak in that mode because it is only sensored to start with and then sensorless. so it is pretty much sensorless!
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Old 03-23-2010, 05:26 AM
  #807  
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Are Castle having problems delivering/producing the mamba max PRo?

I have had mine on order for more than 2 months and I still do not have one...

any Castle inside info available?
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Old 03-23-2010, 10:50 AM
  #808  
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i would give castle a call as i dont see why it would be that long as online stores have them in stock .
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Old 03-23-2010, 12:09 PM
  #809  
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It should switch to sensorless mode everytime you hit the break cause your stopping the rotor from spinning. Either smart sense mode or cheat mode the break is weak. It's just made it worse on modified cause your going so fast and it takes a lot more in stopping the car.

Originally Posted by decibels
Brakes would be weak in that mode because it is only sensored to start with and then sensorless. so it is pretty much sensorless!
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Old 03-23-2010, 12:24 PM
  #810  
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Originally Posted by tudor_47
Are Castle having problems delivering/producing the mamba max PRo?

I have had mine on order for more than 2 months and I still do not have one...

any Castle inside info available?
You have to remember that the whole country of China (where a lot of the components come from) was closed down for the month of Feb. for new years.
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