alcyon

iTrader: (8)

have you tried running a ball diff in front, but tighter than the rear? a ball diff holds up great and you still get to brake hard. but if it gets gritty you have to clean it or it will mess up handling. some of you guys have the battery laid on one side hence more forward, hence a weight distribution of 50 -50 front rear. how to find the car handles like this? is it better with 51-54% rear?. does it have too much steering that rear breaks loose?

angry-alien

iTrader: (8)

No, I have not tried it myself, but I have read bout this method before... I will see how it goes... I probably have to borrow my friend's front Diff to try it...

Alien

alcyon

iTrader: (8)

actually i have tried the diff and it works great, but braking from full speed, you will get some understeering unlike a spool. however the rear end will not slide like a one way. so braking is still very stable. its just when you brake and turn the steering, its like the car still wants to go straight even when the front tyres are at full lock. you have to try it first to experience what i am talking about. but you will have no parts breakage with the diff.

lochness42

iTrader: (1)

There is still option to make slipper spool like AE TC6 has. I know that some people used to make their own spool from diff - they simply took out ball diffs, sometimes they glued in sandpaper and tightened it. This way during hit it slipped and protected drivetrain parts a bit.

UrabusDenis

I drive with ball diff in the front , no problems with it . The front is very tight and the rear one is relaxed

angry-alien

iTrader: (8)

Hey guys... I have an idea (maybe silly )... Since the real function of the 3mm caps is to cushion the contact between the outdrives and dogbones,
I am going to try shrink tubing over the arms of the outdrives... this will makes nice skin like protection over the metal... the space required between
the outdrives and dogbone pins will be tight, so i think two layers of the tubing should work well, well in the theory... I will try it and post up some photos...

Alien

lochness42

iTrader: (1)

I tried something similar, but I felt like it will go off the pin. You'll might even need to superglue it in place. But well it's worth try (just consider that it also depends on your tube - choose one that won't cause much drag)

vr6cj

iTrader: (124)

I have a 1/12 Mini T1 for sale if anyone is interested. Never used it.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-like-new.html

angry-alien

iTrader: (8)

Oh... I was thinking about putting it on the outdrive and not the pins on the dogbone... i'll try it tonight and post photos...

BCbud

iTrader: (37)

1 Too mutch money, I bought 2 T1FK04's with extra parts for $125 to my door.

2 No one races 1/2 stock touring

3 This is not the buy and sell, wrong forum. I saw your add in the buy and sell and chose not to buy it. Please keep your posts in the propper forums.

chicagokenji

personally I was glad he posted the 1/12th Xray 104 here. I totally forgot they made that back then and brought it to market. I never would have seen it or looked at it if it was in the for sale threads.

It would be different if he just had a 1/10th scale one.

BCbud

iTrader: (37)

Yes it is a Kool little car for shure.

alcyon

iTrader: (8)

looking at your car, i notice you place the shocks very stood up. how do you find its handling this way? very nimble? how about the traction?

angry-alien

iTrader: (8)

Oh... just a little tech first...

Rear shocks: Tower holes, third from the outside and the lower on the outer most holes (control arms)... dampers: 2 holes closed (30wt)... ride height: 5.5mm...
Toe: (I'm still little confused about) the book and setup sheet says no clips 3°... so with the 2mm clip I have inserted at the front mounting position, toe should be
around 5°... Droop: 3mm above right height...Roll center: raised, 2mm shim on the on top of the axle hub... Front shocks: Middle hole (upper) and outer most
on the control arms... damper: 3 holes closed (30wt)... ride height: 5mm... didn't check the toe yet... Droop: 3.5mm above ride height...

The car is driven on asphalt and gets around the track at a relatively good speed... the back would occasionally come around on exit of the corners if the power
was applied a little too early... this was before reading on and trying WD40... with the Tyres treated, the car is now sticking to the track quite well (even when pulling
out of corners on power)... Since I'm using a spool up front, corner entry still has a little push, but it's predictable... if kept smooth, the steering is
quite manageable through chicanes... I recently change to the lower FK04 Towers and they seemed to be working welln (with the above mentioned geometry)...
I love the improved geometry and i did notice a little more traction despite a poor track surface....

I got the car on the track over the weekend and had a blast with the car's handling... i wanted to try some shock geometry changes, but the front belt broke again...
I think some debris got onto the pulley and stated cutting through the belt... I also saw some evidence of a little rubbing on the battery too... so now i'm thinking about
putting back a tensioner under the belt to help raise it above the battery (I was advised against this earlier, but i need to reduce the chance of contact)...


Alien

UrabusDenis

I had problems with this aswell , but when I found out it was debris on the pulley no more problems after that , just cleaned it with a screw. I believe the car has a very noisy sound and struggles to accelerate at first ( because the belt can't catch the pulley properly ) with that problem