Like Tree3Likes

Xray T1

Old 07-09-2004, 07:37 AM
  #7861  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 53
Default

i know that, i'll already check it twice, but still the same.
but i will check it again this night.
thank anyway
any suggestion ??
momotalo is offline  
Old 07-09-2004, 07:40 AM
  #7862  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (94)
 
dr_hfuhuhurr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Westchester, NY
Posts: 4,820
Trader Rating: 94 (100%+)
Default

Contact XRay or head to the shop and get the right bearings.

Blake
dr_hfuhuhurr is offline  
Old 07-09-2004, 07:43 AM
  #7863  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 53
Default

can you give me the web address or anything where i can ask the xray?
momotalo is offline  
Old 07-09-2004, 07:44 AM
  #7864  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (94)
 
dr_hfuhuhurr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Westchester, NY
Posts: 4,820
Trader Rating: 94 (100%+)
Default

www.teamxray.com
dr_hfuhuhurr is offline  
Old 07-09-2004, 07:48 AM
  #7865  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 53
Default

thank
momotalo is offline  
Old 07-09-2004, 08:11 AM
  #7866  
Tech Fanatic
 
etzkev's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Northville, MI
Posts: 790
Default

Originally posted by lrcdjcb112
Hello,

Can you explain all that you know about roll centers?

Comments from anyone is welcomed...I remembered reading an article on it but I confused myself and did not really get it.


Any help would be greatly appreciated!
This is very hard to explain, but I'll try my best.

Ok, putting spacers under the camberlinks makes them at a higher angle as compared to where they are connected to the shock towers. This makes the car roll faster because it's roll center has been raised (someone correct me if I'm wrong about it being lowered or raised). This means that the car will shift to lean to its side in corners faster than if no spacers were added, going to whatever you have it's camber set to.

I hope this Kinda makes sense...just try to visualize it!

-Kevin

P.S. If anyone can clear this up or add to it, PLEASE DO!
etzkev is offline  
Old 07-09-2004, 02:32 PM
  #7867  
Tech Adept
 
kaizen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 120
Default

Okay, I thought I understood the castor discussion, until I read the post about using 0 degree blocks with a one-way.

Now, I know this all depends on the track surface, but won't going from the stock (3 degree) blocks to the 0 degree blocks provide less steering mid corner? And since a one-way will provide more steering off power, how will you gain steering on exit (on power)? Isn't the rule of thumb, that less caster = less steering (with considerations for camber of course)?

Or, is it that since less caster = less steering, then it serves to "calm" the effects of a one-way?

Or is it...oh, look I've gone cross-eyed...
LOL

Any clarification would be appreciated.

Cheers.
kaizen is offline  
Old 07-09-2004, 03:11 PM
  #7868  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 225
Default

Kaizen,

Keep in mind this is just my opinion and what I've experienced.

Less caster seems to make the car more aggressive during initial steering input i.e. more twitchy feeling. It also seems to give less overall steering, especially mid-corner and corner exit.

However, many people are finding with the Xray that the zero degree blocks (which are aluminum) are giving them more steering all around due to the fact they flex much less than the composite C- hubs.
Ozwald Bates is offline  
Old 07-09-2004, 04:24 PM
  #7869  
Tech Adept
 
kaizen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 120
Default

Originally posted by etzkev
This is very hard to explain, but I'll try my best.

Ok, putting spacers under the camberlinks makes them at a higher angle as compared to where they are connected to the shock towers. This makes the car roll faster because it's roll center has been raised (someone correct me if I'm wrong about it being lowered or raised). This means that the car will shift to lean to its side in corners faster than if no spacers were added, going to whatever you have it's camber set to.

I hope this Kinda makes sense...just try to visualize it!

-Kevin

P.S. If anyone can clear this up or add to it, PLEASE DO!
If you are refering to raising the inner pivot point of the upper camber link (in relation to the outer), then you are "lowering" roll center. Lowering the inner pivot point creates a "higher" roll center.

In other words, you are correct about it being "raised" or a higher roll center.
kaizen is offline  
Old 07-09-2004, 04:30 PM
  #7870  
Tech Adept
 
kaizen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 120
Default

Originally posted by Ozwald Bates
Kaizen,

Keep in mind this is just my opinion and what I've experienced.

Less caster seems to make the car more aggressive during initial steering input i.e. more twitchy feeling. It also seems to give less overall steering, especially mid-corner and corner exit.

However, many people are finding with the Xray that the zero degree blocks (which are aluminum) are giving them more steering all around due to the fact they flex much less than the composite C- hubs.
Ah, I guess less flex will make the car more reactive?. That makes sense. Makes you wonder exactly what impact the cornering forces has on the stock carbon blocks. Flexing from 3 degrees to 0 degrees or perhaps more to get this result? In any event, I will have to try them out to see for myself.

Anyone experimenting with the 3 or 6 degree aluminum castor blocks? Even more steering throughout cornering range? Oversteer?
kaizen is offline  
Old 07-09-2004, 06:01 PM
  #7871  
Wap
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 133
Default

hey guys what should the lenght of the shocks be fully extended. for some reason i can not find it in the instru. manu. thanks
Wap is offline  
Old 07-09-2004, 06:17 PM
  #7872  
Tech Adept
 
kaizen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 120
Default

Originally posted by Wap
hey guys what should the lenght of the shocks be fully extended. for some reason i can not find it in the instru. manu. thanks
What's important is that they be consistent (i.e. same length) -- especially side to side. In other words, and for example, left front and right front have to be the same length. I think mine ended up being something like 62.5mm (front/back, side/side). But, don't quote me on that.
kaizen is offline  
Old 07-09-2004, 06:59 PM
  #7873  
Wap
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 133
Default

thanks i can't get my ride height under 5 in the front or the back.
Wap is offline  
Old 07-09-2004, 07:01 PM
  #7874  
Wap
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 133
Default

also kaizen, is that 62.5 mm from the center of the hole or from the very top of the shock to the very bottom. thanks
Wap is offline  
Old 07-09-2004, 07:07 PM
  #7875  
Tech Fanatic
 
etzkev's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Northville, MI
Posts: 790
Default

Wap, your problem has happened to many people, so check that the things that hold the spring onto the bottom of the shaft and make sure that they are pushed down all the way (forgot what they are called...haha).

-Kevin
etzkev is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.