rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Man-that chassis is thick-4mm or more? It looks pretty much identical to the BMI 3mm Xray chassis thats available right now. Cells moved forward and in, 3d cutouts to lower roll center back to stock.

840918001

Chassis

It is 4.3 mm thick

I think it a little bit to thick, because the stock version is 2.5 mm and is working well during races.

The thicker the chassisplate the better the shocks and other parts of the suspension has to be.

Maybe they will use it at the worlds?

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

I agree-with a quality piece of Carbon fiber of 3mm and a 3mm topdeck-the car is as stifff as the Losi XXX3G+ chassis. THeres no forces on the track that could flex it. I think 4mm is overkill-but maybe theres other reasons why they do t, like extra weight at the lowest possible point.

Zach P

I think this is the same chassis that Alex was using up in cleveland a while back.I got to take a look at it before we had to ship it out to a photo shoot.

Stevie

I am having a problem with my ft xray,when i turn im getting a grating sound,its aS thoe the front drive shaft is hitting the hex between caster block & front hub-ive tried all-sorts to stop it,but no luck.
yet on the other wheel the front hubs arm is not touching the caster block/& it happens both ways.
as any one else ever had a simlar problem or could suggest what to check..
thanx for any help
steve

True R/C Racing

Sounds like your Toe is off and one of the wheel is stretching more than other Making the CVD Bind up. Try aligning the Toe Up straight (equal) and then Turn the wheel(on Radio) and keep Reducing dual Rate until It stops.

Rob Mincey

Ran my new T1 FK tonight - have been running an Evo2 FOC since January.

I have a couple of questions, though:

1.) Has anyone else had problems with the rear suspension binding when attempting to move the outer rear links to the outer position on the rear hubs (rather than the inner position as dictated in the "stock" setup?)

I'm considering grinding the inside of the rear hubs where the camber link attatches to the inner hole so that the suspension's uptravel isn't compromised. Anyone else tried this?

2.) Also, I set the FK up with the same setup I was running on my FOC (well, as close as I can, anyway) and the handling is way off in comparison. Has anyone else run into this? And, if so, what did you have to do to get back the the same handling you had with the FOC car?

Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

Rob

Andrew Swanson

on the rear hubs the only way to make the outside work is to shave the inside at and angle ( o i ) (o \ )

o = outside
i= inside


\= cut the inside hole area at an angle

and then the new short arms react different to changes then the old long arms.

IE on my t1r i ran super long fornt link and tried it on new fk and it sucked went to super short and it was bomb so stuff is almost switched around a little

just try stuff out and see what works for you.

azenis

Andrew, Nice avatar! Strongbad rules!

oldnwise

iTrader: (6)

Have had the identical problem. I generally run on the inner hole so not a huge issue for me.

If I need to run on the outer hole I add a small spacer between the rim and hub to marginally increase the rear track width.

True R/C Racing

Does anyone run some sort of Camber links On the Rear Hub? Its sort of like what the pivot ball rear hub looks like with the 4 camber link adjustment.

evaa

iTrader: (7)

i just finished converting my FOC to short arms, although i havent instaled the FK rear shcok towers yet, i'll try my luck with the FOC stock shock towers first, i'll let you know what i come up with. I'll try both the FK and FOC base set-ups for comparison.

Lets both wish ourselves some luck

bukel

Sir, i sent you a PM.

Scrad

iTrader: (16)

I use the FOC rear tower on my short arm conversion. I first just switched arms no setup changes. The car was ok. Pretty close actually. Then I ended up taking out some caster and the car works fine. FYI.

protc3

iTrader: (13)

i thought i would try to be different,what do you think.