3LikesXray T1
03-25-2004, 09:35 PM
#6556
T1R with short arms
hi there,
has anyone fitted the short arms to the composite chassis? if yes, what are the mods necessary besides the arms/mountings? is any dremeling/filing needed, does the steering servo mounting gets in the way? if so, what's the solution? many thanks....
has anyone fitted the short arms to the composite chassis? if yes, what are the mods necessary besides the arms/mountings? is any dremeling/filing needed, does the steering servo mounting gets in the way? if so, what's the solution? many thanks....
03-25-2004, 10:47 PM
#6557
Originally posted by Neil Rabara
Be careful screwing in the Ti screws into the alum bulkheads. Without a barrier, the two metals will fuse.
Be careful screwing in the Ti screws into the alum bulkheads. Without a barrier, the two metals will fuse.
03-26-2004, 04:39 AM
#6558
Originally posted by AdR|aN
So its not recommended? Sorry .. i am kinda ignorant to all this ... hope some guys would help
So its not recommended? Sorry .. i am kinda ignorant to all this ... hope some guys would help
03-26-2004, 08:14 AM
#6559
Originally posted by sands
You can use Ti screws, just oil them.
You can use Ti screws, just oil them.
Or any kind of OIL?
TIA
03-26-2004, 08:50 AM
#6560
Any type of oil. Place a drop in the hole before you screw in the screw. The oil acts as a barrier between the alum bulkhead and the Ti screw. Without the barrier, the metal properties will cause them to attract to one another in a process called cold fusion.
03-26-2004, 08:53 AM
#6561
Thanks guys. Really appreciate it.
Didnt wanted to trash my car.
Didnt wanted to trash my car.
03-26-2004, 09:31 AM
#6562
Originally posted by Neil Rabara
Without the barrier, the metal properties will cause them to attract to one another in a process called cold fusion.
Without the barrier, the metal properties will cause them to attract to one another in a process called cold fusion.
LoL
Just joking. Appreciate your help
03-26-2004, 09:52 PM
#6563
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
I thought I had my short arm conversion complete but the cars been sitting in peices for a while. Tonight I was putting the servo back in and it doesn't seem to fit right. I want to make the servo arm parallel with the the top plate, but it seems that the only way I can make it right is to cut off part of the arm on the case of the my servo. Is this the only way to make the servo fit right? The only picture I've got to go on right now is: http://www.rctech.net/events/clevela...yrulxray_3.jpg which doesn't help a whole lot.
03-26-2004, 10:17 PM
#6564
Originally posted by Neil Rabara
Any type of oil. Place a drop in the hole before you screw in the screw. The oil acts as a barrier between the alum bulkhead and the Ti screw. Without the barrier, the metal properties will cause them to attract to one another in a process called cold fusion.
Any type of oil. Place a drop in the hole before you screw in the screw. The oil acts as a barrier between the alum bulkhead and the Ti screw. Without the barrier, the metal properties will cause them to attract to one another in a process called cold fusion.
So that's why a buddy's been wrapping teflon tape around his TI screws
Anybody tried moving the cells forward a bit? most of the weight (cells and motor) are located at the rear, I was wondering if shifting the CG forward would help turn-in?
03-26-2004, 10:48 PM
#6565
Originally posted by rough512
Anybody tried moving the cells forward a bit? most of the weight (cells and motor) are located at the rear, I was wondering if shifting the CG forward would help turn-in?
Anybody tried moving the cells forward a bit? most of the weight (cells and motor) are located at the rear, I was wondering if shifting the CG forward would help turn-in?
But in the end, i when back to the original 3+3 saddle pack config and found it to be a more balance car.
Just my cheap 0.02 advice
03-27-2004, 06:23 AM
#6567
Re: Lola 190mm body
Originally posted by vadn1
Where can I find a 190mm Lola style body.....?
Where can I find a 190mm Lola style body.....?
03-27-2004, 02:58 PM
#6568
Originally posted by psbarger
I thought I had my short arm conversion complete but the cars been sitting in peices for a while. Tonight I was putting the servo back in and it doesn't seem to fit right. I want to make the servo arm parallel with the the top plate, but it seems that the only way I can make it right is to cut off part of the arm on the case of the my servo. Is this the only way to make the servo fit right? The only picture I've got to go on right now is: http://www.rctech.net/events/clevela...yrulxray_3.jpg which doesn't help a whole lot.
I thought I had my short arm conversion complete but the cars been sitting in peices for a while. Tonight I was putting the servo back in and it doesn't seem to fit right. I want to make the servo arm parallel with the the top plate, but it seems that the only way I can make it right is to cut off part of the arm on the case of the my servo. Is this the only way to make the servo fit right? The only picture I've got to go on right now is: http://www.rctech.net/events/clevela...yrulxray_3.jpg which doesn't help a whole lot.
03-27-2004, 02:59 PM
#6569
Originally posted by rough512
So that's why a buddy's been wrapping teflon tape around his TI screws
Anybody tried moving the cells forward a bit? most of the weight (cells and motor) are located at the rear, I was wondering if shifting the CG forward would help turn-in?
So that's why a buddy's been wrapping teflon tape around his TI screws
Anybody tried moving the cells forward a bit? most of the weight (cells and motor) are located at the rear, I was wondering if shifting the CG forward would help turn-in?
Basically makes it smoother from power on to power off.
03-27-2004, 04:41 PM
#6570
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Originally posted by sands
You'll need to trim the bottom front servo tab so it will fit over the suspension parts. Or get some nylon blocks that you can custom drill to mount. I used some associated rc10 bocks and it works fine.
You'll need to trim the bottom front servo tab so it will fit over the suspension parts. Or get some nylon blocks that you can custom drill to mount. I used some associated rc10 bocks and it works fine.
