David Galdo

iTrader: (15)

I am interested.......let us know their plans.

dtm

Haven't tried it yet...only went in this week...I'll let you know Saturday!

The solder posts are really close together....danger of something shorting somewhere!!!

GregH

All the talk of the lower arms cracking at the vacant hole on the front arm has me wondering. Has anyone experienced any bending of the c-hubs or knuckles? I ask because I bought some for a TC3 when I had one and they bent pretty easy. Once they bend, there only good for a r/c boat anchor. LOL

I'm also wondering if Xray will be making hubs and knuckles out of a plastic material as a replacement. I have the front/rear kit at the shop but I'm waiting to get them for a couple of reasons. 1) how much are replacements if they DO bend? 2) What if I'm not happy with the conversion, then I wasted my money.

Arnoud

After several race and trainingdays with the C-hubs, I did experience:

- No braking;
- No bending;
- Great race results!!!!!

I understand that XRay is looking into the plastic part, part, biut that they are not sure yet...... They thought actually that not that many people would choose for the C-hubs so therefore the made it in alu, but now this has changed. They do, however feel that the plastic parts may need replacement more often.

Arnoud

Prices from the X-shop:

Steering block US$ 29.75 (a piece)
C-hub US$ 29.75 (a piece)

Arms US$ 3.75

Front & Rear set US$ 166.75

GregH

The plastic parts can't cost nowhere near as much as the aluminum parts. For the price of the aluminum parts you could buy plastic 10x over.

Usagi

they are charging us 25,500 yen! for the front and rear!

Hell this is messed up!

dtm

No problems with the alloy bits of the C-hubs bending.......extremely well made!

dtm

Blame your distributer...........

rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

I purchased an EVO2 about a month ago and I'm having a few problems with it:

1. There's about 13 EVO2's at my local track and I have asked just about all of them have the same problem, the shocks leak really bad. Has anyone else encountered this?

2. In order to obtain the proper ride height we have to place a lot of pre-load on the springs. I'm talking the retainer is screwed more than half way down the shock body. What springs are you guys using.

3. My car spins out something terrible. I'm running the kit setup with the one-way pulley totally locked down. Any suggestions?

GregH

Can you explain how you built the shocks? It may sound funny but there's a few steps that are important that can cuase leaks.

Not sure on the preload. I have mine set up for foams and the collars are less then half way down. Foams are 58-59mm. What tires are you running?

Are the front and rear arms free? The small clips will need filing or sanding to free up the arms.

StephenSobottka

iTrader: (8)

Thanx for the tip hobby.
I have done this before u said it and was hoping i wasn't the only one. The pivot ball car can also be raced towards the front as well don't forget that. I will see jeff and travis at oktoberfast IM out
Stephen
(jeff need to talk to u)

rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

I built the shocks per the instructions. I'm not new to building shocks, I was just curious, because just about everyone at my track has the same problem. The shocks leak pretty bad. As far as the spacers they have been sanded down and the arms move feely.

GregH

Were are they leaking? Is it the caps or the o-rings?? Sometimes the bladders can get out of wack when tightening them down. I haven't had one leak yet and I've built 4 T1's and 3 Serpent cars.

Usagi

oh I have blamed them, but good o`mario says its nothing they can do............... DOH!!!!!!!!!!!