advfuel

iTrader: (29)

Has anyone used the 34T diffs in the T3 ?
Does any one Know which belts to use to suit the smaller pulleys ?
To run 17.5T at our local track the 34T has a better rollout compared to the 38T.

jiggen5354

use the 507mm front belt and the 183mm rear belt

advfuel

iTrader: (29)

Thanks man, same as the T2

Ramyuras

Need a little help here with my T3 the setup I have is the base rubber that comes with the manual, I am using rubber on carpet the car is ok in the rear but the car push a little on entry in the front, what step should I take to get a little more steering? thank you.

rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

how much drag brake are you using?

Ramyuras

None.

rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

try running 20-30% drag brake. you will have to adjust your driving style a bit, Like lifting and not braking. But that should help you float more speed into the corner. Try that and get back to me. A lot of people overlook things like weight transfer with handling of a car.

nitro ho

iTrader: (1)

Hey rex, what do you mean float,lol,lol,lol,lol.

rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

Float, Carry, Roll, Coast speed into the corner. Man, your a pain sometimes lol.

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

to solve push I wouldn't recommend adjusting your chassis with Drag Brake (with the new Tekin software I actually prefer Push Control to keep the car rolling after an initial throttle lift). do you have a high speed or low speed push on corner entry?? also, what motor type are you running??

edit - one quick thing you can try is to reduce the camber gain in the rear by reducing the shims on top of the rear hub from 4mm to 2mm.

one last question - how heavy is your car? where have you put additional weight?

Ramyuras

My push is low to med speed, using 17.5 I will try less camber gain, the car is 1420 and 25 grams rear right side and 25 grams left front. The car is balance side to side and front to rear. TY

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

Don't be afraid to add more front camber -- I run 2 degrees. You can also increase the camber gain on the front c-hubs. If all of those things don't help... you should probably have someone observe your car when it runs. sometimes your car has rolled too much... and that is taking away steering too. You might need to run a thicker oil... but before you do that check your droop.

I'm not sure how much droop your running -- but that has a big effect on the overall feeling of the car. When I run 17.5TC I always run 1mm in the front and 2.5mm in the rear (i measure droop over ride height...).

Finally - before busting out the shock oil -- experiment with:

1 - lowering the front shock mounting positions
2 - removing the rear sway bar (that will yield a lot more steering -- everywhere)
3 - removing more rear camber gain

Chris Adams

Lower your front roll center at the arm to -.75. You will gain more grip and the initial push will go away.

lowcel

iTrader: (80)

Woohoo!!! I finally broke my chassis this past Sunday. It wasn't easy but I managed. I hit a wall at full speed with my right wheel at the perfect angle. I hit hard enough to break the shock in half as well.

Unfortunately I can't blame anyone but myself for breaking it. I received the new one piece holder a month or two ago, I just never installed it. I was so happy with the way the car ran that I didn't want to mess with it, I was just going to do it "later". Apparently I waited one race too long to replace it.

I was still able to run the car afterwards, I just had to add an extra shim or two in a couple of places to get me through the day. I managed a third place in the main I was in which I am very happy with. I took home my first trophy at our local Slow Birds.

Anyway, ordered my new chassis today, should be here on Thursday so I can rebuild it (using the new one piece mount). It should be better than ever.

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

Hi Chris -- I know you've done well w/ that setting.. but I always thought going to the -0.75 front pin mount made the car feel lazy in transitions. Thankfully the sweet spot on XRay touring cars is _really_ big.