kobiwan

iTrader: (12)

I'm new to rubber tire racing. My first race was in Cincinatti at Tri-state hobbies for the 3rd leg of the Northeast grand slam. I noticed that my dog bones keep coming apart. I am running the standard ones not the ESC. people tell me that's the nature of the beast for runnig rubber tire with a spool. Is there any tips or tricks to keep this from happening? I have friends that run the Shumacher car and they run a diff in the front but they don't put use diff balls, I guess to keep less stress on the dog bones but at the same time keep it from diffing out. Anyone heard of this or use this?

CarbonJoe

Mr. Dayger -

How exactly are they falling apart? Are the pins breaking, or are the setscrews loosening? What seems to help a lot with the ECS driveshafts is to use blue Loctite, wait for it to dry, take the setscrews out, and Loctite again. Then, I use shrink wrap to help hold the pins in in case the setscrew loosens. Maybe this will work on the regular driveshafts as well?

kobiwan

iTrader: (12)

LOL! Whats up Joe? I think the pins are just falling out. I'm using the standard driveshafts, not the ecs. So should I try locktiting them twice then? because I'm using loctite when on the initial build.

CarbonJoe

Yes. If the T3 pins don't have a flat spot that the setscrews can fit into, you can use a dremel to grind a flat on one side. Just make sure that the flat lines up with the setscrew when you assemble them. The ECS pins do have flats ground on them. I'd also try the shrinkwrap trick (around the outside of the driveshaft) to help hold the pins in if the setscrew loosens (assuming the normal full circumference outer axles).

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

You would need the same parts as the rear T3 diff. If your running a really tight tracks and you struggle a lot with power out of the corners or consistancy sometimes the diff route will settle your car down a bit. Of course the spool will be faster but harder to drive, same as a one way could be faster on a flowing track but if you need brakes for heavy traffic, it can be a problem.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

I find that the setscrew can put unequal pressure on the pins and with the right moment of shock can snap the pins, I have been running with just the shrink wrap and no setscrews with no problems, just make sure the wrap is in good shape and nice and tight to the sleeve.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

The procedure Joe mentions works very well on the non ecs parts.

kobiwan

iTrader: (12)

Do I make a flat spot just where the set screw sits? or the whole length of the pin?

mok

iTrader: (9)

just where the set screw sits
-Mark

matt rem

iTrader: (25)

I have to get my car up to 1420g, Whats everyone using for lipo weight trays?

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

I use the X-ray weight to balance left/right. Then I attach these to the bottom of the top deck to make up the difference. I screw them to the top deck in the extra hole in the middle.

http://www.maximum-velocity.com/tungstenplates.htm

RCFREAK

iTrader: (20)

so your mounting these on the bottom of the top deck? no wonder why you were asking for help, with the car not working properly. Weight distribution is a BIG thing!!

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

huh?? what are you talking about? I've never asked about my car not working properly. My car is dialed.

RCFREAK

iTrader: (20)

werent you askin for help and setup sheets.. after the NEGS race, sayin something about traction rolling?

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

no. I asked about setup sheets so I could compare but I never traction rolled or asked for help. Must have been someone else. My car handles very well.

Maybe you got confused by me saying Hunter should figure out his own traction roll problem without others helping him?