notchy diff on bloody knife just rebuilt
#1
notchy diff on bloody knife just rebuilt
hi keith here i can use any help i can get i have a crc bloody knife i just rebuilt the diff and the action is extremely notchy never had this before i used all new parts used xxx-nt big diff rings new acer carbide balls all new bearings and new spacer and bevelle washer rebuilt 3 different diffs using 3 different balls from irs std balls 100 for 8 or 9 bucks acer and associated all have same feel i sand rings using wet crosshatch patern on 400 grit firs and finish with 2000 even tried the smaller d rings xxx losi rings am i using the correct rings should i be sanding them any info would help thanks
#2
Tech Regular
Two things:
Ive never heard of using XXX-NT rings, they might not be the same size.
Also, it could just need to be broken in, try running the motor at 1 or 2 volts, lift the back end up, and hold one tire. repeat on the other side. 15-30 seconds each. See if its better then.
Ive never heard of using XXX-NT rings, they might not be the same size.
Also, it could just need to be broken in, try running the motor at 1 or 2 volts, lift the back end up, and hold one tire. repeat on the other side. 15-30 seconds each. See if its better then.
#3
Replace the bearing in the right side hub! The outer most one.
You may be lucky enough to be able to spray it out with motor spray and relube, Try that first!
The CRC cars are good for blowing that bearing if you hit the right rear side of the car against anything.
You may be lucky enough to be able to spray it out with motor spray and relube, Try that first!
The CRC cars are good for blowing that bearing if you hit the right rear side of the car against anything.
#4
imprsme is right on with the hub bearing. i just had a similar expierience with my carpet knife. i tried rebuilding a couple of times and the same problem. i was begining to think that the threaded end of my axle was bent slightly. as it turned out, it was my hub bearing the whole time. being that i was used to 1/10 pan car, i never considered that a hub bearnig would be bad after a couple of races(i tend to hit stuff )
#6
thanks for all the info after reading posts i went to work on the diff and after rebuilding with new parts and i surfaced the rings it still felt notchy so i looked at the flanged bearing on end of hub so i took a non flanged bearing and put in the end of hub it went in so far i could fit another non flanged bearing on the end ( it stuck out a little bit) also then i put 2 axel shims and the spacer lip twards bearing then the bevelled washer and finaly the lock nut it was worlds better but still not as smooth as i would like so i took the beveled washer off and put lock nut back on WOW never have i felt a diff this smooth not to say this is a hot setup i will test this weekend at the track but anyone else having this problem it is more than likely that outside flanged hub bearing thanks to everone that replied you helped me greatly
#7
Tech Adept
The CRC diffs are extremely good, and last a long time. You must be careful not to overtighten the diff as it will permantly ruin the diff thrust bearing in the hub. Once this bearing is crunched, the diff action will be notchy.
I would get yourself some standard diff balls (100 for about $8), new "D" rings, some standard Associated diff grease (not stealth) and a new bearing for the diff hub (CRC's are the best for the buck). Put a small dot of diff grease on each ball. Tighten the diff slowly to ensure you don't overtighten.
The diff will be smooth and work excellent for many races.
I would get yourself some standard diff balls (100 for about $8), new "D" rings, some standard Associated diff grease (not stealth) and a new bearing for the diff hub (CRC's are the best for the buck). Put a small dot of diff grease on each ball. Tighten the diff slowly to ensure you don't overtighten.
The diff will be smooth and work excellent for many races.