Pro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion
#767
@JW Congratulations on your 2nd place.
On Heemstede traction was medium, specially in the evening when the temperatures went to 10 degrees C and the curbs got dampy it was a little tricky to drive as you had to stay of the curbs otherwise it would be risky to spin out. Even de TC's spun out sometimes.
Ben had some issues of spinning out and he had broken a steering block during the race(could have been the spinning out issue while driving with an almost broken steering block).
Joost had a problem in the first final where he was hit from behind and DNF. It looked like the pod was completely bend by the hit but lucky it was only some durt that got stuck between the t-bar and the chassis wich made it tweak to one side. Second final joost battled for the lead and got second place behind Niels. Overall Ben and Joost had the same points but joost had a better qualification that got him 3rd place and Ben 4th place.
I was qualified 2nd behind Niels. I got 2nd place in the first final. In the second final i got passed niels in the first round through the wide sweeper (canteen corner) as Niels got a little wide halfway through the corner i passed him underneath at full throttle and out on the straight with 95+km/h with Niels and the others behind me. That move is a once in a lifetime kind of manouvre
A round later while getting round a corner my backend got lose and on the grass doh! The train passed me and the marshals took their time to put me back and i lost 1,5 rounds. I had to battle 5 minutes to get through the field again for a 4th spot. Kees (that was on 3rd) made a mistake and went on the grass just before the last 2 or 3 rounds. I went into safe mode for 3rd place and overall 2nd place podium spot.
Kees, Haal and roy had a good battle as far as i could see while driving the race.
It was a nice first race. We could have driven with almost a full heat but the weather report was bad with 90% of rain so 7 drivers is still good. Even with the cold and somewhat lower traction we scored lots of 16's with a couple of 16,4's from different drivers. When traction is getting better i expect very low 16's or even high 15's and no more slippery curbs!
From top to bottem: roy, haal, niels, me, joost and kees. Ben called a delay as he had to fix something on his car so isn't in the picture
On Heemstede traction was medium, specially in the evening when the temperatures went to 10 degrees C and the curbs got dampy it was a little tricky to drive as you had to stay of the curbs otherwise it would be risky to spin out. Even de TC's spun out sometimes.
Ben had some issues of spinning out and he had broken a steering block during the race(could have been the spinning out issue while driving with an almost broken steering block).
Joost had a problem in the first final where he was hit from behind and DNF. It looked like the pod was completely bend by the hit but lucky it was only some durt that got stuck between the t-bar and the chassis wich made it tweak to one side. Second final joost battled for the lead and got second place behind Niels. Overall Ben and Joost had the same points but joost had a better qualification that got him 3rd place and Ben 4th place.
I was qualified 2nd behind Niels. I got 2nd place in the first final. In the second final i got passed niels in the first round through the wide sweeper (canteen corner) as Niels got a little wide halfway through the corner i passed him underneath at full throttle and out on the straight with 95+km/h with Niels and the others behind me. That move is a once in a lifetime kind of manouvre
A round later while getting round a corner my backend got lose and on the grass doh! The train passed me and the marshals took their time to put me back and i lost 1,5 rounds. I had to battle 5 minutes to get through the field again for a 4th spot. Kees (that was on 3rd) made a mistake and went on the grass just before the last 2 or 3 rounds. I went into safe mode for 3rd place and overall 2nd place podium spot.
Kees, Haal and roy had a good battle as far as i could see while driving the race.
It was a nice first race. We could have driven with almost a full heat but the weather report was bad with 90% of rain so 7 drivers is still good. Even with the cold and somewhat lower traction we scored lots of 16's with a couple of 16,4's from different drivers. When traction is getting better i expect very low 16's or even high 15's and no more slippery curbs!
From top to bottem: roy, haal, niels, me, joost and kees. Ben called a delay as he had to fix something on his car so isn't in the picture
#768
Ah okay Djiewie, that was our que to get into the car last saturday lol. I also heard from Alexander that there were more and more IC cars running again on MACH with the new engine specs so there will be a nice gripline soon again.
Fun we will have, I believe that ZAC 2 will give some more drivers on the stand so... If the weather works with us that will be a nice race again. In opposite direction I believe
Fun we will have, I believe that ZAC 2 will give some more drivers on the stand so... If the weather works with us that will be a nice race again. In opposite direction I believe
#769
Tech Regular
Very nice cars!!!. We are trying to run a specific "Pro10 Series" races here near Barcelona (Spain) setting them apart from the touring car races. Actually we are 7-8 people with pro10 235 mm cars.
Maybe you should come here this summer!!!. The track is very close to the beach and here always is sunny!!!
Maybe you should come here this summer!!!. The track is very close to the beach and here always is sunny!!!
#770
Hello RWD specialists!
I'd like some advice about a RWD project. I think this topic is the most fitting since most cars here are custom made prototypes. Anyway, I'd like to make a RWD car I can call my own. It would be from a TC (Xray T1), it could be a pan car or F1 or anything. I have done the basic, removed the front belt & diff and tried the car once, but the handling was pretty bad. I assume this was because the rear diff was badly set up, so this is changed now. The car has a rear belt, which I don't know if it's a problem (since all 2WD cars have direct drive). I was thinking of removing the shock towers and place the shocks (front and rear) in a laydown position. My basic question is- is it possible for a RWD car to handle at all without a "movable" rear end, which is the standard in racing? My car would be just for my pleasure to develop something myself so it wouldn't be in any racing series, which means I can benefit from fully independent suspension front and rear (something I understand is banned in most classes?). My father is an engineer and I am a engineering student with CAD program knowledge so we can make some simple parts in our workshop in order to make small changes. I'd also like to know, which foams would be best for this car, which bodyshell (I currently use a TC body- maybe a Protoform 200mm Lola or some WGT body) etc. Any advice from RWD experts is welcome
Thanks in advance,
Denis
I'd like some advice about a RWD project. I think this topic is the most fitting since most cars here are custom made prototypes. Anyway, I'd like to make a RWD car I can call my own. It would be from a TC (Xray T1), it could be a pan car or F1 or anything. I have done the basic, removed the front belt & diff and tried the car once, but the handling was pretty bad. I assume this was because the rear diff was badly set up, so this is changed now. The car has a rear belt, which I don't know if it's a problem (since all 2WD cars have direct drive). I was thinking of removing the shock towers and place the shocks (front and rear) in a laydown position. My basic question is- is it possible for a RWD car to handle at all without a "movable" rear end, which is the standard in racing? My car would be just for my pleasure to develop something myself so it wouldn't be in any racing series, which means I can benefit from fully independent suspension front and rear (something I understand is banned in most classes?). My father is an engineer and I am a engineering student with CAD program knowledge so we can make some simple parts in our workshop in order to make small changes. I'd also like to know, which foams would be best for this car, which bodyshell (I currently use a TC body- maybe a Protoform 200mm Lola or some WGT body) etc. Any advice from RWD experts is welcome
Thanks in advance,
Denis
#771
Try to google some pictures of the Serpent Ten-Force. That is a pancar with front and rear independent suspension. I think that will be something that you will like and which you can use as an example to your project.
Keep us informed offcoarse...
Keep us informed offcoarse...
#772
Tech Adept
Hello RWD specialists!
I'd like some advice about a RWD project. I think this topic is the most fitting since most cars here are custom made prototypes. Anyway, I'd like to make a RWD car I can call my own. It would be from a TC (Xray T1), it could be a pan car or F1 or anything. I have done the basic, removed the front belt & diff and tried the car once, but the handling was pretty bad. I assume this was because the rear diff was badly set up, so this is changed now. The car has a rear belt, which I don't know if it's a problem (since all 2WD cars have direct drive). I was thinking of removing the shock towers and place the shocks (front and rear) in a laydown position. My basic question is- is it possible for a RWD car to handle at all without a "movable" rear end, which is the standard in racing? My car would be just for my pleasure to develop something myself so it wouldn't be in any racing series, which means I can benefit from fully independent suspension front and rear (something I understand is banned in most classes?). My father is an engineer and I am a engineering student with CAD program knowledge so we can make some simple parts in our workshop in order to make small changes. I'd also like to know, which foams would be best for this car, which bodyshell (I currently use a TC body- maybe a Protoform 200mm Lola or some WGT body) etc. Any advice from RWD experts is welcome
Thanks in advance,
Denis
I'd like some advice about a RWD project. I think this topic is the most fitting since most cars here are custom made prototypes. Anyway, I'd like to make a RWD car I can call my own. It would be from a TC (Xray T1), it could be a pan car or F1 or anything. I have done the basic, removed the front belt & diff and tried the car once, but the handling was pretty bad. I assume this was because the rear diff was badly set up, so this is changed now. The car has a rear belt, which I don't know if it's a problem (since all 2WD cars have direct drive). I was thinking of removing the shock towers and place the shocks (front and rear) in a laydown position. My basic question is- is it possible for a RWD car to handle at all without a "movable" rear end, which is the standard in racing? My car would be just for my pleasure to develop something myself so it wouldn't be in any racing series, which means I can benefit from fully independent suspension front and rear (something I understand is banned in most classes?). My father is an engineer and I am a engineering student with CAD program knowledge so we can make some simple parts in our workshop in order to make small changes. I'd also like to know, which foams would be best for this car, which bodyshell (I currently use a TC body- maybe a Protoform 200mm Lola or some WGT body) etc. Any advice from RWD experts is welcome
Thanks in advance,
Denis
#773
Tech Addict
Fix the diff. run it very loose. Lota toe inn at the back. I also had squat on the rear arms. soft suspension.
On medium grip you will light up the inner wheel. thats how i liked it because it meant it would be more forgiving. I also ran battery taped transversely with the ESC on the other side of the motor. very rear heavy. Start there. it should push and you can start to adjust. It was great fun but the chassie was so destroyed its not going to run again.. ever.. I just bought a Sakura instead..
another issue was that the fronts picked up all the dirt first because the track was so unclean. more and more understeer.
I could apply lots of power too. had my old corally X-BP 4.5T dialed up to 40% power. on a small indoor track. i where only ever running full throttle for perhaps a short tap on the straight. I love having exess power on tap. should be about 200 watts. was intending to run normal layout to get less push but never did it. i had issues with oversteer too but the track was bad.
So bad in fact i haven`t had a run there again for months.. just lost the taste. I hate old carpets with tire sauce.. makes the dirt stick to the tire.
On medium grip you will light up the inner wheel. thats how i liked it because it meant it would be more forgiving. I also ran battery taped transversely with the ESC on the other side of the motor. very rear heavy. Start there. it should push and you can start to adjust. It was great fun but the chassie was so destroyed its not going to run again.. ever.. I just bought a Sakura instead..
another issue was that the fronts picked up all the dirt first because the track was so unclean. more and more understeer.
I could apply lots of power too. had my old corally X-BP 4.5T dialed up to 40% power. on a small indoor track. i where only ever running full throttle for perhaps a short tap on the straight. I love having exess power on tap. should be about 200 watts. was intending to run normal layout to get less push but never did it. i had issues with oversteer too but the track was bad.
So bad in fact i haven`t had a run there again for months.. just lost the taste. I hate old carpets with tire sauce.. makes the dirt stick to the tire.
#774
Thanks for the replies guys!
About tyres- which can be put on a TC? I'm almost sure I can put rear 30mm nitro foams but I'm not sure if it would make a significant difference. I have no idea about those extra wide tyres, what are they called and can they be put on my car? What would the wheelbase approximately be? Sorry for a lot of questions...
Denis
About tyres- which can be put on a TC? I'm almost sure I can put rear 30mm nitro foams but I'm not sure if it would make a significant difference. I have no idea about those extra wide tyres, what are they called and can they be put on my car? What would the wheelbase approximately be? Sorry for a lot of questions...
Denis
#775
Guys, come on!!! This is a PANCAR thread!!!
I think you can talk about TC's in a lot of other threads here on RCtech.
If you are thinking about making a TC in RWD. Talk to the TC guys out here. If you are going to make a pancar, here is the place...
I think you can talk about TC's in a lot of other threads here on RCtech.
If you are thinking about making a TC in RWD. Talk to the TC guys out here. If you are going to make a pancar, here is the place...
#776
@joost, at least there is something to write about and bump up the thread . Not pancar but it is still two wheel drive.
To be honest arubus, i think you have to lose the whole tc carbon chassis and build something like the serpent tenforce. The weight distribution and placement of the motor are just wrong on a tc. How you get wide tires on tc stuff no idea but you could use the widest 1/10 nitro foamtires on the back (i think it is 30mm?) and the smallest on the front. 30-35sh back and 40 front should do something.
I am not sure you will get anything better then a pancar that you can buy second hand but it is a challenge to build something your own.
Good luck
To be honest arubus, i think you have to lose the whole tc carbon chassis and build something like the serpent tenforce. The weight distribution and placement of the motor are just wrong on a tc. How you get wide tires on tc stuff no idea but you could use the widest 1/10 nitro foamtires on the back (i think it is 30mm?) and the smallest on the front. 30-35sh back and 40 front should do something.
I am not sure you will get anything better then a pancar that you can buy second hand but it is a challenge to build something your own.
Good luck
#779
Not only that but it also matters which shores you use. A harder tire wears less than a softer one so. We don't use one particular shore but we change the shores to the track and weather conditions but I would say about 1mm. per heat is a good indication and that is 1mm. overall.
#780
Tech Adept
Very nice cars!!!. We are trying to run a specific "Pro10 Series" races here near Barcelona (Spain) setting them apart from the touring car races. Actually we are 7-8 people with pro10 235 mm cars.
Maybe you should come here this summer!!!. The track is very close to the beach and here always is sunny!!!
Maybe you should come here this summer!!!. The track is very close to the beach and here always is sunny!!!
22 July:
See you on track