New Team CRC Gen-XL
#1156
Tech Master
iTrader: (70)
Hey guys, I searched gearing and I didn't come up with much.
I have my first on-road race coming up with my shiny new Gen-XL.
I'm going to be running 13.5 boosted and 17.5 blinky. It's a carpet track with a 100ft straight.
Any suggestions on where to start gearing with those motors? Spur and Pinion? Forgive my inexperience, I'm an off-road guy.
I have my first on-road race coming up with my shiny new Gen-XL.
I'm going to be running 13.5 boosted and 17.5 blinky. It's a carpet track with a 100ft straight.
Any suggestions on where to start gearing with those motors? Spur and Pinion? Forgive my inexperience, I'm an off-road guy.
#1157
Tech Master
Hey guys, I searched gearing and I didn't come up with much.
I have my first on-road race coming up with my shiny new Gen-XL.
I'm going to be running 13.5 boosted and 17.5 blinky. It's a carpet track with a 100ft straight.
Any suggestions on where to start gearing with those motors? Spur and Pinion? Forgive my inexperience, I'm an off-road guy.
I have my first on-road race coming up with my shiny new Gen-XL.
I'm going to be running 13.5 boosted and 17.5 blinky. It's a carpet track with a 100ft straight.
Any suggestions on where to start gearing with those motors? Spur and Pinion? Forgive my inexperience, I'm an off-road guy.
So, gearing is measured at milimeter per revolution (mmpr).
The formula for this is tyre diamter (in mm) multiplied by 3.14 divided by number of teeth on the spurgear mulitiplied by the number of teeth on the pinion.
Not too sure what the gearing would be with those motors, but certainly with a 3.5 brushless, you would be looking at around 28-30mmpr and recently we have been running 10.5 blinky at around 62.5mmpr.
Hope that all makes sense, cheers!
#1158
Tech Master
iTrader: (70)
Hi mate, with regards to gearing, it's not so much to do with just a spur and pinion, you have to take into account the diameter of the tyres as well.
So, gearing is measured at milimeter per revolution (mmpr).
The formula for this is tyre diamter (in mm) multiplied by 3.14 divided by number of teeth on the spurgear mulitiplied by the number of teeth on the pinion.
Not too sure what the gearing would be with those motors, but certainly with a 3.5 brushless, you would be looking at around 28-30mmpr and recently we have been running 10.5 blinky at around 62.5mmpr.
Hope that all makes sense, cheers!
So, gearing is measured at milimeter per revolution (mmpr).
The formula for this is tyre diamter (in mm) multiplied by 3.14 divided by number of teeth on the spurgear mulitiplied by the number of teeth on the pinion.
Not too sure what the gearing would be with those motors, but certainly with a 3.5 brushless, you would be looking at around 28-30mmpr and recently we have been running 10.5 blinky at around 62.5mmpr.
Hope that all makes sense, cheers!
So I just plug in spurs and pinions until it equals the correct mmpr for that setup? I get the formula, just not sure how to use it to figure out the correct gearing.
Is there a chart or list somewhere with all the different tire diameters?
#1159
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
Click here for GEAR CHART
Use that link, lets you calculate roll out easily, and makes a gear chart adjusted for tire wear as well.
Use that link, lets you calculate roll out easily, and makes a gear chart adjusted for tire wear as well.
#1160
Tech Master
Thanks, it does make sense. For an example though, 43mm tire diam. x 3.14 / teeth on spur x teeth on pinion =mmpr right?
So I just plug in spurs and pinions until it equals the correct mmpr for that setup? I get the formula, just not sure how to use it to figure out the correct gearing.
Is there a chart or list somewhere with all the different tire diameters?
So I just plug in spurs and pinions until it equals the correct mmpr for that setup? I get the formula, just not sure how to use it to figure out the correct gearing.
Is there a chart or list somewhere with all the different tire diameters?
The only problem though, is getting the correct size spur gear in the first place. The reason I mention that, is that I usually use a 88t spur gear, and with the quite small diameter tyres which will mean using quite a large pinion (between 40 and 42) to get the correct overall gearing I need for 10.5 blinky.
The 'hot ticket' at the moment is to try and get the motor as close to the centre pivot as you can which means using a bigger spur, and then a bigger pinion to get the gearing the same as it was with the smaller spur (hope that makes sense mate!)
All makes to the fun of racing 12th cars!!
Cheers.
#1163
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
Click here for GEAR CHART
Use that link, lets you calculate roll out easily, and makes a gear chart adjusted for tire wear as well.
Use that link, lets you calculate roll out easily, and makes a gear chart adjusted for tire wear as well.
#1164
I assembled my XL last night and one thing that doesn't impress me is the front upright. The right side went together really easy, the left side threads were too mashed up and the pivot ball retainer cant thread in upright. Any one else have the same issue? Any ideas?
#1165
Try a light countersink on the stearing block threads to see if that helps.
Once that is assembled I like to run the assembly with a dremel at a low speed. I grab the pivot ball thread with the dremel and hold the stearing block. It will free it right up Make sure you use low speed and apply some lubricant. I use 30K 1/8 diff lube. Once the prcedure is done, take apart, clean everything out and reassemble. I reapply a drop of 30K diff fluid on the pivot ball during assembly.
Hope this helps.
#1166
Some of them are a bit difficult to assemble.
Try a light countersink on the stearing block threads to see if that helps.
Once that is assembled I like to run the assembly with a dremel at a low speed. I grab the pivot ball thread with the dremel and hold the stearing block. It will free it right up Make sure you use low speed and apply some lubricant. I use 30K 1/8 diff lube. Once the prcedure is done, take apart, clean everything out and reassemble. I reapply a drop of 30K diff fluid on the pivot ball during assembly.
Hope this helps.
Try a light countersink on the stearing block threads to see if that helps.
Once that is assembled I like to run the assembly with a dremel at a low speed. I grab the pivot ball thread with the dremel and hold the stearing block. It will free it right up Make sure you use low speed and apply some lubricant. I use 30K 1/8 diff lube. Once the prcedure is done, take apart, clean everything out and reassemble. I reapply a drop of 30K diff fluid on the pivot ball during assembly.
Hope this helps.
Also the side damper tube oil is in a bottle but the shock oil is in a needle oiler? Odd
#1167
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
The problem is the left side upright only had maybe 2-3 threads and the first thread was completely laid over out of the box, I tried fixing it with a knife but it was to far gone . The right side had perfect threads and it went together as designed. Guess I will have to order a upright and new pivot ball cup.
Also the side damper tube oil is in a bottle but the shock oil is in a needle oiler? Odd
Also the side damper tube oil is in a bottle but the shock oil is in a needle oiler? Odd
#1168
The problem is the left side upright only had maybe 2-3 threads and the first thread was completely laid over out of the box, I tried fixing it with a knife but it was to far gone . The right side had perfect threads and it went together as designed. Guess I will have to order a upright and new pivot ball cup.
Also the side damper tube oil is in a bottle but the shock oil is in a needle oiler? Odd
Also the side damper tube oil is in a bottle but the shock oil is in a needle oiler? Odd
I haven't had them that bad, usually just a light countersink to start things would do it.
#1169
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Is it a good idea to put some grease between the front caster block and the A-arm pin? I was assembling mine and it seemed that without a little Associated Green Slime the retainer plate had to be way too loose to allow the arm free movement.
Also, does CRC make a dedicated thrust bearing for their diff or is the Slapmaster unit the part to use?
Also, does CRC make a dedicated thrust bearing for their diff or is the Slapmaster unit the part to use?
#1170
Is it a good idea to put some grease between the front caster block and the A-arm pin? I was assembling mine and it seemed that without a little Associated Green Slime the retainer plate had to be way too loose to allow the arm free movement.
Also, does CRC make a dedicated thrust bearing for their diff or is the Slapmaster unit the part to use?
Also, does CRC make a dedicated thrust bearing for their diff or is the Slapmaster unit the part to use?
No CRC only has a thrust washer. Slapmaster is the only one that I have seen.