New Team CRC Gen-XL
12-04-2010, 09:11 AM
#856
Tech Apprentice
12-04-2010, 09:19 AM
#857
http://rare.sr5.com/blog/wp-content/...num-polish.jpg
This is what I use, but it really doesn't matter. Almost any metal polish will work.
This is what I use, but it really doesn't matter. Almost any metal polish will work.
12-04-2010, 08:15 PM
#858
Wayne,
Thanks for putting up some new 2010 setup info for us! Congrats on winning your class!
Noticed your flat mount servo position? In the past that has not been a setup promoted by Frank, but to each his own? I'm fairly sure that Brian Bodine runs this servo setup as well and has for quite some time. Could you give us a quick overview of what types of handling or driveability a club driver may benefit by experimenting with this setup over the standard angle mount? Getting the "correct" tie-rod angles is key, no?
Thanks!
Thanks for putting up some new 2010 setup info for us! Congrats on winning your class!
Noticed your flat mount servo position? In the past that has not been a setup promoted by Frank, but to each his own? I'm fairly sure that Brian Bodine runs this servo setup as well and has for quite some time. Could you give us a quick overview of what types of handling or driveability a club driver may benefit by experimenting with this setup over the standard angle mount? Getting the "correct" tie-rod angles is key, no?
Thanks!
This was the first season I've run the servo flat in my Gen-XL. I've had it on an angle for the previous 4 seasons. You won't believe it, but the only reason I put it flat was to gain room for my electronics..lol.. I had Black Diamond ESC I was running last season and didn't have any luck getting in and balancing the car. I put the servo down and moved it forward and was able to get all the electronics in with room to spare.
As for handeling, I've always felt it was more aggressive with the servo down. I went into this season knowing the car would handle more aggressively, but decided to adjust my driving style and car set up to adjust to it. Even with the servo down it still didn't feel as aggressive as I wanted at the beginning of the season, so I went back to the stock upper arms and removed the graphite brace to lower the 10* mounts. I don't think you can get a more aggressive (castor/camber changing) set up then what I have on there now..lol..
The car is on the edge and will dive in / square off if I try to "roll" it. So I drive it very hard!! It's not an easy set up to run, but it looses no speed through the turns.
12-05-2010, 12:18 PM
#859
Hey guys,
I thought I'd post some pics and the set up I used at the US Indoorchamps.
This set up TQ'ed and won the A main masters
Front:
1.61" magenta, sidewall glued
2 shims on axle to space wheel out
10* castor blocks
stock upper a-arms
.50mm springs with .005" droop
20,000 lube on kingpins
servo flat
3 3/4mm clearance
rear:
1.66" magenta, seam glued
max. width
white side springs, .01" off of bottom plate
20,000 side tube lube
25wt. oil with red spring
1mm droop
4 1/4mm clearance
If you have any questions or comments let me know
Attachment 675369
Attachment 675370
I thought I'd post some pics and the set up I used at the US Indoorchamps.
This set up TQ'ed and won the A main masters
Front:
1.61" magenta, sidewall glued
2 shims on axle to space wheel out
10* castor blocks
stock upper a-arms
.50mm springs with .005" droop
20,000 lube on kingpins
servo flat
3 3/4mm clearance
rear:
1.66" magenta, seam glued
max. width
white side springs, .01" off of bottom plate
20,000 side tube lube
25wt. oil with red spring
1mm droop
4 1/4mm clearance
If you have any questions or comments let me know
Attachment 675369
Attachment 675370
I see you mentioned mounting the servo flat. Can you elaborate on the benefit of this? Also, what did you use to mount it to the chassis (shoo goo?).
Thanks,
Steve
12-05-2010, 09:03 PM
#863
Nope, the guys in our club have been snapping them clean off! Not a bent one in sight.
I honestly think it must be a bad batch or something. I have been running my 3.2R with the prostrut front end now for 3-4 years, and have not broken one yet, but I have seen 4-5 broken in the last couple of weeks on the XL cars.
Shawn.
12-05-2010, 09:07 PM
#864
Nope, the guys in our club have been snapping them clean off! Not a bent one in sight.
I honestly think it must be a bad batch or something. I have been running my 3.2R with the prostrut front end now for 3-4 years, and have not broken one yet, but I have seen 4-5 broken in the last couple of weeks on the XL cars.
Shawn.
I honestly think it must be a bad batch or something. I have been running my 3.2R with the prostrut front end now for 3-4 years, and have not broken one yet, but I have seen 4-5 broken in the last couple of weeks on the XL cars.
Shawn.
12-06-2010, 08:58 AM
#866
Hey guys,
I thought I'd post some pics and the set up I used at the US Indoorchamps.
This set up TQ'ed and won the A main masters
Front:
1.61" magenta, sidewall glued
2 shims on axle to space wheel out
10* castor blocks
stock upper a-arms
.50mm springs with .005" droop
20,000 lube on kingpins
servo flat
3 3/4mm clearance
rear:
1.66" magenta, seam glued
max. width
white side springs, .01" off of bottom plate
20,000 side tube lube
25wt. oil with red spring
1mm droop
4 1/4mm clearance
If you have any questions or comments let me know
Attachment 675369
Attachment 675370
I thought I'd post some pics and the set up I used at the US Indoorchamps.
This set up TQ'ed and won the A main masters
Front:
1.61" magenta, sidewall glued
2 shims on axle to space wheel out
10* castor blocks
stock upper a-arms
.50mm springs with .005" droop
20,000 lube on kingpins
servo flat
3 3/4mm clearance
rear:
1.66" magenta, seam glued
max. width
white side springs, .01" off of bottom plate
20,000 side tube lube
25wt. oil with red spring
1mm droop
4 1/4mm clearance
If you have any questions or comments let me know
Attachment 675369
Attachment 675370
Looks like you ran different castor in the pics?
12-06-2010, 10:06 AM
#867
I wacked the walls a few times and I think I "bent" the lower a-arm and a few fasteners..lol.. So I did a quick fix and adjusted the shims so the castor looked the same.
Not the correct way of fixing it, but with only 14 minutes till the next run I had to do something, that's what I came up with and it worked so I left it.
Not the correct way of fixing it, but with only 14 minutes till the next run I had to do something, that's what I came up with and it worked so I left it.
