jolson88

iTrader: (1)

The August issue of R/C Car Magazine had a _great_ Soldering 101 article with detailed pictures/descriptions/everything.

After reading that article, I was able to solder up a new motor/esc setup with very little practice. I just use a cheap 60 watt Hakko RED Soldering Iron that I picked up for around $20 from my LHS. The type of solder makes a big difference as well like Cpt. America says.

jolson88

iTrader: (1)

Another tip I found (I think it was in the Soldering 101 article in R/C Car Magazine) is for a cheap alternative to a Third Hand. If you don't have the money for one, put a rubber band on the handle of some pliers and BAM! Home-made third hand (sort of ).

niznai

To keep things from moving around I found helpful to mount the speedy onto something (like the bench top I work on). Double sided tape can be used. That way, you have your hands free to grab wires, etc. Find a convenient position and plant it there (perhaps lying on the side) for the soldering stage. Try to start from the most difficult to access wires and go towards the easier to acces ones. It doesn't help having a bunch of thick wires in the way when you try to reach something with a hot iron tip.

Capt'n is right as well. Lead is more dangerous when vapourised (because it is inhaled directly in your lungs) but lead free solder is a pain in the butt. Keep it quick and you should be alright. If you have a fume extractor, even better.

Don't give up, you'll get there with a bit of practice.

chrisfrom619

Most common mistake on soldering is if you are putting the solder on the tip of the iron not to the component. If the component, wire, or whatever you are soldering is not melting the solder it means it's not hot enough or you have someting in it like coating. Whenever I have problem soldering in to the surface like for an example NIMH battery surface I use a dremel or sand paper to scuff the surface and clean it really well but be careful and not to get carried away and next thing you know puff you're on fire. Let the solder work its way into the material it would coat the surface by itself as long as you keep the iron in contact.

I've inhaled those fumes before lead or not lead base with the soldering iron it is impossible to inhale lead because its heavy if the lead for some reason made if to air borne I'm pretty sure it will drop before you inhale it. An old computer tower contains cooling fan those should be enough to suck the fumes that burns is inside the solderand they are 12v or a small desk fan you can find it at walmart.

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

I disagree. You can use a little solder on the tip or even fed in just to transfer heat to the item your soldering. I'll give you an example -- the battery bars I have have a little raised + or - sign on each side so it is hard to make solid contact... and and are quite thick. When soldering them, I tin the battery terminal a little, the back of the bar a little, hold it in place, let the gun heat up nice, sit the gun tip on the battery bar and immediately feed a little solder on TOP of the bar as it instantly transfers the heat to the bar, causing the bottom of the bar and cell to meet, bond, and I finish it by holding a the joint together with a jewler's screwdriver while it cools so it doesn't form a cold joint. When it's all said and done I bend remove the screwdriver and am left with a joint that is solid as heck. The only thing funny about it is the little pool of solder on the end of the bar that doesn't connect to anything, but it's a small price to pay for getting that joint instantly hot and over with.

Btw, for those of you who are worried about lead vaporizing, that happens at about 3200F -- what you're inhaling is flux from inside the core of the solder.

Jackster

iTrader: (19)

You get much better results when you tin both the tip of the iron/gun, and the parts being soldered.

jdearhart

iTrader: (15)

+40000! LOL!

I had the same Weller as you and never could get it to work right. Now that I've had some experience and someone showed me what to do, I think I could make it work. But, I went the Hakko route, and as posted above, it was the best $90 I've ever spent. If you go with the Hakko, make sure to get the 908 iron. You can find the 907 for around $75, but the 908 is just a little larger, and holds the heat much better. I cut mine on when I get to the track, and cut it off when I leave. It always stays hot.

As far as solder, go to Radioshack and get the smallest they have (.032 60/40 I think.) The smaller wire (at least for me) was easier to use. This is my routine when soldering new wires: Put a couple of drops of the Trinity liquid flux (great stuff.) It will suck the solder into the wire braid. Then, clean the iron on a wet sponge, tin the iron, and and feed the solder onto the wire from the top of the iron and the flux will suck it in and keep it nice and clean. Then, clean the iron again, re-tin it, and get some solder on the RS posts. Finally, clean the iron, re-tin, and solder the wires to the post. Yeah, it's a little extra work, but I don't have problems with cold joints or trash buildup like I used to.

Hope this helps, goodluck!!

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

100% completely wrong.

amando96

NO!.. you should get more than a 30 watt iron, or you'll risk damagind the electrocnics!
even with a 30 watt iron you can only keep it there for 3 seconds!

i've been in electronics for a while now...

oh and EDIT:
those fumes are not from lead, lead evaporates at like 1500 Cº, thats just the flux(most solder things have flux inside, it helps the solder latch onto the components better) it shouldnt be harmfull, but do the soldering near an open window, or a well ventilted place.

chrisfrom619

yup that was 100% completely wrong I only have 23 yrs of soldering experience that's it. since 7 yrs old may be 8.

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

Well, you are the one telling people not tin the tip of their iron. The solder is a flexible heat path -- granted you can get away with just wiping the tip and pressing if it's a uniform tip and surface, but tinning it a little has its definite advantages.

Skiddins

You really need wattage and the correct tip for the job.

A crappy 20W iron will heat to 400 degC or more (more than enough for anything we do) but because of the low power and the smaller tip all the heat will be lost very quickly making for dodgy joints where you have held the iron against the work for far too long.

A good tip, a 5mm chisel or my favourite, a flat blade screwdriver type bit, when attached to 40-50W iron will be more than enough.
Tin the joints etc as mentioned before.

DO NOT use sandpaper etc on the end of the tip as it will remove the ferrous sulphate coating (used to protect the tip from corrosion by the flux) on the end which will mean the tip will pit and become rough very quickly.

Skiddins

chrisfrom619

Ok sorry for the misunderstanding Ididn't say not to tin the tip I meant when your iron tip is already heating the wire you should put the solder to the wire not to the tip.this is after tinning the tip Sorry for the confusion

CarbonJoe

I use the Radio Shack tip tinner and cleaner as the final step before shutting down the iron for the day, and it makes the tips last a *lot* longer. Someone else found another brand that was less expensive, but most in the US can find it at RatShack.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062721

chrisfrom619

I'am using something similar to this I never have a problem with it.

http://www.frys.com/product/1563526?...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG