mac853

In fact our indoor track had no grip with foam tyres, so i want to try slick tyres for my f109.

Then I think TRG slicks should be good, but somebody tell me what are the difference between "normal" version compound (TRG2101, 2102 and 2201) and "superion" compound(TRG2300 and 2400), please?
Then "normal" and "superion" could mix using?

Best regards

wallot

superion is extra soft. slick tires have NO grip compared to foam at least on carpet.

mac853

Wait, our track is indoor, but not carpet, is something like concrete painted with something which gain grip, seems so much as asphalt but not really is.
I saw guy driving a F103 with foam, the car spin as hell, even he loose totally the diff, the car drifts in the curves. But the TCs are still going well, since they run with RP tyres.
So as you can the surface conditions is really wild.
That's why i am looking for the good slicks.
If is really as you say, of superion is really soft, maybe i will not purchase superion fronts.

How about the hard fronts(TRG2101) match with superion rear(TRG2400) in these tough conditions?

InZane

iTrader: (2)

The annual “Lusse”-race was held this weekend in Borås. With many Swedish champions from other scales/classes on the starting line the competition was very tough. With 10 cars Tamiya F104 was the most popular car next was 3Racing F1-09 with 5 cars and a single HPI Formula 10 rounding up the field.
I wasn’t sure what car to choose – my race proven Tamiya or my new, relatively untested, F1-09. I finally decided on the 3Racing car as I felt it had more race potential of the two.
Retrospectively I made the right decision - I TQ’ed (won all three qualification rounds) and then went on to win two of the three A mains (a loose diff in the first A main spoilt a “perfect day”).



This was my set up – absolutely planted on the high traction carpet!

Motor: EA Motor Sports 27T, 35mm roll out
Tires: Kit, sauced full width rear and inner half front - Robitronic “Grip Master”
Centre shock: 3 hole piston, Kit oil, Tamiya yellow Touring spring
Side shock: 1 hole piston, 60 oil
Side springs, CRC mod, white spring slightly pre loaded
Front springs: Associated .022
Ride height 4mm
-0,5 deg camber, Caster plate (alu) full forward.
Everything else box stock.

MADHAT

iTrader: (26)

InZane,
Well done, and thank's for posting your setup.

robk

iTrader: (22)

Very Nice!!!

ChadRacing

iTrader: (3)

way to go....and thanx for posting your setup

HaraR40

iTrader: (33)

i been looking at this CRC mod since i already have a pack of springs.

What else do i need. buy the looks of it, just the spring holders, but do i have to modify the part where the original springs go up into. This seems very deep for the small CRC style springs?

thanks
Alex

racer x 1

iTrader: (27)

does anyone else seem to have excess slop (side to side movement on axle) in the front wheels?

robk

iTrader: (22)

I did remove the lower portion of the spring cup on the bulkhead. I don't know if it matters, as Inzane did not. The CRC spring mount and tweak screw locate the spring anyway.

InZane

iTrader: (2)

Video from the last, and fastest, F1 A-main, I lapped the rest of the field at least once

robk

iTrader: (22)

Checked out.......GONE

InZane

iTrader: (2)

If you use the kit front arms, like me, you can get rid of the slop by turning the upper ball holder as far forward/anti clockwise as possible (see pic).



I'm using Zen Z2105 king pins instead of the kit ones - these are 4-5mm longer and makes it possible to adjust ride height with the help of spacers. You need to make new slit for the C-clip with a dremel though.

Video from F1 A-Main 2
First A-main (slipping diff)

vafactor

iTrader: (6)

to use the CRC type side springs you only need to cut the plastic cups of the cross brace and to use really long screws with the knurled ends on them where the small end of the side springs snap into place. Or you can use shorter machine screws and the old style threaded round balls which would sit on the lower graphite piece in lieu of the standard kit's plastic spring retainers. Either way should work fine. I do like my car much better with the CRC springs and it's real handy to have that tweak adjustment.

NiMo

I ended up using longer hex head bolts through the spring retainer and screw them in from below.
This meant no modifiying on the plastic parts and still ablew to use the upper top deck hinge as supplied, then in removing the plastic spring retaining parts from the pod I am able to adjust the tension using the now left open hole on the pod.
It does however mean removing the spring and bolt if you want to use a different spring as the hex head is larger than the small end of the spring.