rcgeezer

Ok all you ST-RR pilots...I really need your input!! I'm having a problem with my front dogbones popping out of the outdrives when landing off big jumps. Before you go there, YES they are the ST-RR long bones and not the ST-R shorter ones. When you compress the arms all the way upwards, you can see that the pins are close to the outer-most end of the outdrives. This does not occur at the lowest arm position, as I've already tried to solve this by adjusting the droop. I've put a small spacer on the outside of the shock shafts to limit the travel, but perhaps it not a big enough spacer? Any advice here would be very welcomed, and THANKS!! I'm frustrated as you can tell

houston

iTrader: (96)

what are your shock positions geezer ?



i am curious as i have seen this problem posted a few times

rcgeezer

Monty, nice talking to you. Don't forget to post those compressed measurements we discussed, thanks!

Anyone else care to contribute a solution?

ehames005

iTrader: (74)

I just went and took a look at my RR and it is about the same the pins are close to the edge of the drive cup. The only thing I can think of is to look inside the drive cup to see if it is to worn out and that is what is allowing the cvd to slip out.

houston

iTrader: (96)

i am still trying to find my calipers they are pretty important to me so i know they are in my boxes somewhere

rcgeezer

Thanks Monty, good luck finding them. Ehames005, thanks for looking at your RR. I just recently rebuilt the front diff completely with new outdrives (diff cups) so I know they are not worn at all. This may just be a fluke deal where I'm just lucky enough to be landing the jump off-kilter enough on 1 front wheel such that it goes MAX compression at just the right (wrong) point and allows the bone to disengage. It's happened once before in just about the same manner, which is what has me worrying about the condition. I'm also afraid to restrict the shock dampening too severly such that it effects the pre-load or pack entering the jumps. YIKES!!!

NITRO 540

iTrader: (10)

Do you have the long upper arms and the short ends???

rcgeezer

I'm pretty sure I do, they are what come stock in the ST-RR kit. The ST-R upper arms where shorter I believe. There is barely enough of the adjusting screw visable between the upper arm and end when connected to the middle or inner hole on the hub carrier to adjust the front camber angle, so it must be the long upper arm.

BIG RE

iTrader: (33)

Hey Kris, check to see if your lower arms are warped at all, the kyosho arms like to start sagging after a while, that could contribute to it.

rcgeezer

Interesting thought Red! Actually I've recently replaced one of the front arms due to some breakage, and come to think about it the other older arm is where I'm having the trouble. I have a few new ones laying around so I'll replace it just for grins anyway. So Red, what makes them sag over time...Kyosho's plastic is pretty decent I thought?

houston

iTrader: (96)

85mm compressed , 116mm extended

here is the positions

rcgeezer

Monty, are those your normal shock positions? You're running 1 hole down on the tower and 1 hole in on the arm compared to mine (basically the same laydown angle). My droop is also set at 116mm, so I need to check total compression distance. That positioning would result in LESS overall range of travel for your arms, which might also be a good thing. Thanks!

BIG RE

iTrader: (33)

well, kyosho plastic is pretty good, but I think all 1/8th arms do it(at least that I've owned). The arms bend from the lower mounting position, as it is like the balance point on a teeter-totter and puts all the pressure there.

rcgeezer

Monty, what weight shock oils are you using front and rear? In the above picture #043, what the heck is that thick silver thingy between the blue hub and the carrier? I don't have anything like that on mine!

BIG RE

iTrader: (33)

that's the machining on the hub Krisit's an illusion