Corally RDX Phi 09
05-04-2010, 02:57 PM
#526
just saw this on the corally site - NEW! RDX PHI '09 CHASSIS 'SUPER NARROW'
http://www.corally.com/anubizz/coral...FSName=Corally
Anyone has anymore info about this or pics of it on the car?
http://www.corally.com/anubizz/coral...FSName=Corally
Anyone has anymore info about this or pics of it on the car?
05-05-2010, 04:07 AM
#527
Tech Rookie
The car is supposed to have the straight arms to give them ago but I have been having trouble getting them in Australia (2 Months so far) and have ordered from the UK as well and they should arrive late next week hopefully.
I notice when you run the straight arms you have to replace the front sway bar wire does this help the issue?
Michael
I notice when you run the straight arms you have to replace the front sway bar wire does this help the issue?
Michael
You really want to move the rear diff to the forward position so the driveshafts are straight. And the shocks line up really nicely on the front face of the arm, so there's are no need for ridiculous spacers. And also the Assassin short ball stud straighten out the upper arms. But when you have the shocks on the front of the arm, the sway bar needs to run across the front of the diff (like with the swept arms) instead of the back-on the small carbon piece. But... the sway bar clashes with the diff, so I have now fitted a 36tooth diff pulley and all is well. Of course to flip the rear diff you need a shorter belt (183tooth) (I used an Xray 183tooth, yes sinful I know - I'll replace it with a dependable Corally next order). I've left the front diff/spool with the 42/21 pulleys, and the rear with the 36/18 pulleys, so even though they are all different, the ratio is the same, and I didn't need to change the front belt. I did it this way because I have some spares of the 41 and 21 pulleys - might as well keep using them.
I also tried fitting an xray 189tooth rear belt with the standard pulleys but it was slightly too short.
Also, if you do somehow run the rear diff forward with the large pulley forward, and run a sway bar forward of the diff, to get around the swaybar hitting the pulley you can also double up the swaybar mounts and then it clears - but only by a mm. I found the 36pulley was a better solution.
Cheers
Mick - arg noooo I mean Mike
05-05-2010, 10:43 PM
#528
Kewl post Vexxer. Very creative!
Suggest that you name the car "Frankenstein"...LOL
Bill
Suggest that you name the car "Frankenstein"...LOL
Bill
05-06-2010, 12:47 PM
#529
Tech Adept
I have just been fitting the straight arms here in NZ, and found a few things to consider...
You really want to move the rear diff to the forward position so the driveshafts are straight. And the shocks line up really nicely on the front face of the arm, so there's are no need for ridiculous spacers. And also the Assassin short ball stud straighten out the upper arms. But when you have the shocks on the front of the arm, the sway bar needs to run across the front of the diff (like with the swept arms) instead of the back-on the small carbon piece. But... the sway bar clashes with the diff, so I have now fitted a 36tooth diff pulley and all is well. Of course to flip the rear diff you need a shorter belt (183tooth) (I used an Xray 183tooth, yes sinful I know - I'll replace it with a dependable Corally next order). I've left the front diff/spool with the 42/21 pulleys, and the rear with the 36/18 pulleys, so even though they are all different, the ratio is the same, and I didn't need to change the front belt. I did it this way because I have some spares of the 41 and 21 pulleys - might as well keep using them.
I also tried fitting an xray 189tooth rear belt with the standard pulleys but it was slightly too short.
Also, if you do somehow run the rear diff forward with the large pulley forward, and run a sway bar forward of the diff, to get around the swaybar hitting the pulley you can also double up the swaybar mounts and then it clears - but only by a mm. I found the 36pulley was a better solution.
Cheers
Mick - arg noooo I mean Mike
You really want to move the rear diff to the forward position so the driveshafts are straight. And the shocks line up really nicely on the front face of the arm, so there's are no need for ridiculous spacers. And also the Assassin short ball stud straighten out the upper arms. But when you have the shocks on the front of the arm, the sway bar needs to run across the front of the diff (like with the swept arms) instead of the back-on the small carbon piece. But... the sway bar clashes with the diff, so I have now fitted a 36tooth diff pulley and all is well. Of course to flip the rear diff you need a shorter belt (183tooth) (I used an Xray 183tooth, yes sinful I know - I'll replace it with a dependable Corally next order). I've left the front diff/spool with the 42/21 pulleys, and the rear with the 36/18 pulleys, so even though they are all different, the ratio is the same, and I didn't need to change the front belt. I did it this way because I have some spares of the 41 and 21 pulleys - might as well keep using them.
I also tried fitting an xray 189tooth rear belt with the standard pulleys but it was slightly too short.
Also, if you do somehow run the rear diff forward with the large pulley forward, and run a sway bar forward of the diff, to get around the swaybar hitting the pulley you can also double up the swaybar mounts and then it clears - but only by a mm. I found the 36pulley was a better solution.
Cheers
Mick - arg noooo I mean Mike
Thanks for the info will save me a lot of time going through the same thing.
That explains why some of the latest setup sheets I have seen have been running the 36 pulleys.
Regards
Michael
05-06-2010, 01:02 PM
#530
just saw this on the corally site - NEW! RDX PHI '09 CHASSIS 'SUPER NARROW'
http://www.corally.com/anubizz/coral...FSName=Corally
Anyone has anymore info about this or pics of it on the car?
http://www.corally.com/anubizz/coral...FSName=Corally
Anyone has anymore info about this or pics of it on the car?
05-06-2010, 01:02 PM
#531
Tech Apprentice
I have a corally RDX Phi 09 for sale for 180 euros and 20 euros shipped to worldwide. If someone is interested please contact me on my email [email protected]
05-06-2010, 11:34 PM
#532
Tech Rookie
Obviously gone are the battery posts, any bolt in weights, and it looks like because of the thinner chassis, there are no machined slots for the wishbone mounts. - **And it only fits the straight arms.**
I'd be quite keen because I think the 2.4mm chassis is too still stiff for low grip situations.
Michael vdH
05-07-2010, 12:21 PM
#533
Tech Initiate
Have been testing the new lipo chassi for about a month, a bit more. The prototype one.
Have tested on both High-grip carpet and low grip asphalt. Compared to the old wide std chassi the biggest difference is that in narrow corners and 180s the car is easier to take around the corner. Its rotate WAY much better. And the left-right balance on the track is pretty awesome. The biggest improvement is steering, alot more steering was added to the car with new chassis, mostly due to the cutouts in front. I will say for rubber tires this is the way to go guys!
Few pics for your interest. If you have questions, feel free to ask!
/Daniel Carlsson
Have tested on both High-grip carpet and low grip asphalt. Compared to the old wide std chassi the biggest difference is that in narrow corners and 180s the car is easier to take around the corner. Its rotate WAY much better. And the left-right balance on the track is pretty awesome. The biggest improvement is steering, alot more steering was added to the car with new chassis, mostly due to the cutouts in front. I will say for rubber tires this is the way to go guys!
Few pics for your interest. If you have questions, feel free to ask!
/Daniel Carlsson
05-07-2010, 07:36 PM
#535
Have been testing the new lipo chassi for about a month, a bit more. The prototype one.
Have tested on both High-grip carpet and low grip asphalt. Compared to the old wide std chassi the biggest difference is that in narrow corners and 180s the car is easier to take around the corner. Its rotate WAY much better. And the left-right balance on the track is pretty awesome. The biggest improvement is steering, alot more steering was added to the car with new chassis, mostly due to the cutouts in front. I will say for rubber tires this is the way to go guys!
Few pics for your interest. If you have questions, feel free to ask!
/Daniel Carlsson
Have tested on both High-grip carpet and low grip asphalt. Compared to the old wide std chassi the biggest difference is that in narrow corners and 180s the car is easier to take around the corner. Its rotate WAY much better. And the left-right balance on the track is pretty awesome. The biggest improvement is steering, alot more steering was added to the car with new chassis, mostly due to the cutouts in front. I will say for rubber tires this is the way to go guys!
Few pics for your interest. If you have questions, feel free to ask!
/Daniel Carlsson
Would suggest that you shoe gu the steering servo down to it. Has saved me a lot of repair work with the regular chassis. Tosolini suggested it a couple years back.
Bill
05-07-2010, 07:41 PM
#536
05-07-2010, 11:43 PM
#537
Tech Rookie
Cheers for those pics RDX - Excellent!!
05-08-2010, 04:27 AM
#538
Tech Initiate
I have not glued the servo down to the chassi if you mean that bill.. I always use the std corally servo posts. As it has always worked for me, no problem with broken chassi or servo. And yes the wheelbase is 1-2mm longer for easier fine tuning in length of wheelbase.
05-08-2010, 05:42 AM
#539
Tech Regular
New chassis looks very interesting, will have to take a closer look when the UK importer gets a few in.
05-09-2010, 06:49 AM
#540
Not so much about breaking parts. But, I have had the posts shift and servo move after moderate shunts.
Bill