8ight 1.0 Stability Issues
06-07-2009, 01:05 PM
#1
8ight 1.0 Stability Issues
I'm having problems getting my buggy to be stable. it just doesn't 'feel' right on the track, then I see other people with 8ight's and they have plenty of traction, amazing steering, and their buggies just flow around the track. I am looking for it to be easier to drive, point and shoot to a point. From reading, it seems like the only thing to do is add weight but I'm not sure if I want to do that. So is there anything I can do to make it feel more flat footed/easier to drive fast? I have tried everything-from driving smooth to blipping it around the whole track and powersliding and can't find something that makes me feel comfortable. Diff setup right now is 5-5-1 with OS V-Spec. Tires are balanced but it still doesn't feel right. 
06-07-2009, 03:52 PM
#2
Put this setup in and run it. Car is awesome with this setup.
http://losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/8IGHT...-challenge.pdf
You could also try running a steel flywheel.
http://losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/8IGHT...-challenge.pdf
You could also try running a steel flywheel.
06-07-2009, 04:48 PM
#3
Put this setup in and run it. Car is awesome with this setup.
http://losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/8IGHT...-challenge.pdf
You could also try running a steel flywheel.
http://losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/8IGHT...-challenge.pdf
You could also try running a steel flywheel.
I was running 553 then switched to 551. To tell you the truth, I think i am a little faster with 551 and havent noticeda ny stability loss. Then when I talked to adam drake he said he never runs less than 2 in the rear diff. So can someone clearly explain the different from going from 1-2 or 3? I read in setup books but I never fully understodd. What is more stable and what has more steering and traction?
My buggy had the drake setup from the neo buggy race setup so some of the camber links (like shock tower holes and hub holes for different camber position so would that cause the it to have more steering/less stability? Someone just doesnt feel right.........
06-07-2009, 04:54 PM
#4
Try going back up to 7k oil in the center diff. My cars (including the 8ight) have always felt "floaty" to me with lighter oil in the center. 2 and 3k in the rear should make for more of a posi-traction effect on throttle. If you go higher in the rear diff the car will be a little less locked in on high speed sweepers/high speed turns. 5k/7k/2k is perfect in an 8ight and 56 pistons with 25 or 27.5 oil in the rear shocks also helped stability a lot when I ran that car.
06-07-2009, 05:50 PM
#5
I was have the same problem I could not keep the rear of the car underneath it. I when to 3F 5C 3R and the car feel so much better.
06-07-2009, 06:25 PM
#6
Try going back up to 7k oil in the center diff. My cars (including the 8ight) have always felt "floaty" to me with lighter oil in the center. 2 and 3k in the rear should make for more of a posi-traction effect on throttle. If you go higher in the rear diff the car will be a little less locked in on high speed sweepers/high speed turns. 5k/7k/2k is perfect in an 8ight and 56 pistons with 25 or 27.5 oil in the rear shocks also helped stability a lot when I ran that car.
I was thinking of just putting some more weight on my car. Any reason not to?
06-07-2009, 06:50 PM
#7
Don't go 55/25wt, that will be WAY too soft. You need the 56 piston to use oil that light. 54/40wt up front is good. Don't add weight either, it won't do anything for you. Best thing to do is use the setup Jason posted. The 7k in the center diff will help, it makes the car settle down on power.
06-07-2009, 07:07 PM
#8
Don't go 55/25wt, that will be WAY too soft. You need the 56 piston to use oil that light. 54/40wt up front is good. Don't add weight either, it won't do anything for you. Best thing to do is use the setup Jason posted. The 7k in the center diff will help, it makes the car settle down on power.
http://s190.photobucket.com/albums/z...erAlley059.flv
06-07-2009, 07:42 PM
#9
Nah, I think for what you're looking for the 7k will be better. It will accelerate harder but straighter. If it's not to your liking it's pretty easy to change at the track. Good servos are nice aren't they?
06-07-2009, 08:03 PM
#10
7 k in back will give it looser feel on throttle as more power will go to the back. also thicker diff. fluid in back means more traction said your car is 1.0 correct if so run rear hubs all the way back upper link at inner hole at hub and inner upper at tower front get 2.0 carriers and run the inside hole on tower and carrier. diffs. if to loose in back run 5-5-2 or 5-3-2 also run +2mm rear hexes and try running blue shoes with green springs and composite shoes with black springs the hubs will help alot same with clutch springs should be planted with this setup if not try running the 2.0 extended chassis the longer wheel base of the 2.0 chasis will help alot. as for shocks on 1.0 found that 55 on 32.5 in rear was the best for me in loose conditions
06-07-2009, 08:31 PM
#11
I will try 7 then. But what I'm wondering is if I make every single change possible on the buggy, I won't know what part of the setup that is hurting me. Is the stable and easy to drive setup good for beginner drivers?7 k in back will give it looser feel on throttle as more power will go to the back. also thicker diff. fluid in back means more traction said your car is 1.0 correct if so run rear hubs all the way back upper link at inner hole at hub and inner upper at tower front get 2.0 carriers and run the inside hole on tower and carrier. diffs. if to loose in back run 5-5-2 or 5-3-2 also run +2mm rear hexes and try running blue shoes with green springs and composite shoes with black springs the hubs will help alot same with clutch springs should be planted with this setup if not try running the 2.0 extended chassis the longer wheel base of the 2.0 chasis will help alot. as for shocks on 1.0 found that 55 on 32.5 in rear was the best for me in loose conditions
06-07-2009, 09:00 PM
#12
oops suppose to say 7 k in center will make it looser not back sorry for the typo thicker in center will send more power to back end making it looser so try running thinner 5-5-2 if still to loose try 5-3-2 one of these should be what you are looking for also rear block should be 3 toe and 3 squat dont for get to soften clutch springs greens and blacks will help a bunch
06-07-2009, 09:06 PM
#13
oops suppose to say 7 k in center will make it looser not back sorry for the typo thicker in center will send more power to back end making it looser so try running thinner 5-5-2 if still to loose try 5-3-2 one of these should be what you are looking for also rear block should be 3 toe and 3 squat dont for get to soften clutch springs greens and blacks will help a bunch
06-07-2009, 09:46 PM
#14
here is what i liked the best 4 set up
front
upper link inner on tower -2 camber 54 pistons on 40 wt shocks 5 in diff.
center 5k
rear
upper link inner upper hole on tower and inner hole on hub -2 camber 2k in diff. shocks 55 on 32.5 oil
stock down force wing
+2 hexes in rear
clutch green springs and black spring combo no gold springs to stiff allow motor to spool up to much with the long wear style shoes u are running clutch springs is probably causing all the loose rear problems long wear shoes need soft springs cause they dont grab as much cause are harder material need to go with soft springs will let the hard springs grab sooner which will not let the motor rev. so high before grabbing
front
upper link inner on tower -2 camber 54 pistons on 40 wt shocks 5 in diff.
center 5k
rear
upper link inner upper hole on tower and inner hole on hub -2 camber 2k in diff. shocks 55 on 32.5 oil
stock down force wing
+2 hexes in rear
clutch green springs and black spring combo no gold springs to stiff allow motor to spool up to much with the long wear style shoes u are running clutch springs is probably causing all the loose rear problems long wear shoes need soft springs cause they dont grab as much cause are harder material need to go with soft springs will let the hard springs grab sooner which will not let the motor rev. so high before grabbing
06-07-2009, 09:49 PM
#15
here is what i liked the best 4 set up
front
upper link inner on tower -2 camber 54 pistons on 40 wt shocks 5 in diff.
center 5k
rear
upper link inner upper hole on tower and inner hole on hub -2 camber 2k in diff. shocks 55 on 32.5 oil
stock down force wing
+2 hexes in rear
clutch green springs and black spring combo no gold springs to stiff allow motor to spool up to much with the long wear style shoes u are running clutch springs is probably causing all the loose rear problems long wear shoes need soft springs cause they dont grab as much cause are harder material need to go with soft springs will let the hard springs grab sooner which will not let the motor rev. so high before grabbing
front
upper link inner on tower -2 camber 54 pistons on 40 wt shocks 5 in diff.
center 5k
rear
upper link inner upper hole on tower and inner hole on hub -2 camber 2k in diff. shocks 55 on 32.5 oil
stock down force wing
+2 hexes in rear
clutch green springs and black spring combo no gold springs to stiff allow motor to spool up to much with the long wear style shoes u are running clutch springs is probably causing all the loose rear problems long wear shoes need soft springs cause they dont grab as much cause are harder material need to go with soft springs will let the hard springs grab sooner which will not let the motor rev. so high before grabbing
