V-spec problems with top end.
05-18-2009, 03:45 PM
#16
LOL, Most definitely bud! two wheel drive is not the same as 4 wheel drive..your front and center diff were spooling up and the rear diff was probably slipping..looks like you have some wrenching to do..How awesome that you solved the problem yourself! and now you know why you need to disassemble and check/clean the car after every race day...Keep on top of those bearings also, they will seriously rob your speed if they get dirty or rusty
05-18-2009, 03:48 PM
#17
LOL, Most definitely bud! two wheel drive is not the same as 4 wheel drive..your front and center diff were spooling up and the rear diff was probably slipping..looks like you have some wrenching to do..How awesome that you solved the problem yourself! and now you know why you need to disassemble and check/clean the car after every race day...Keep on top of those bearings also, they will seriously rob your speed if they get dirty or rusty
05-18-2009, 04:45 PM
#18
i thought i had my carb seeled well to. I clean my internals one day. when i put it on i pressed harder then normal (pretty hard) and heard it snap in place. I was pushing it in while i was tightening it, and it snaped down yet again. I was expieriencing what you are talking about. After that it went away.
05-19-2009, 08:33 AM
#19
Thanks JAZ! The thing that sucks is that just before racing we had completely taken the rear diff apart and replaced the ring gear because it looked worn. Didn't realize the case was going bad too, so now I'm going to replace the COMPLETE rear diff, case and all and start from scratch. I think I'm also going to put ceramic bearings in the Vspec just for grins, it couldn't hurt. Thanks guys for all the help...you ROCK!!
05-19-2009, 08:53 AM
#21
Did you check the rod and crankpin? Did you look to see if your piston and sleeve were still good?
Let us know what you find, when you take it apart, before you put new stuff in it..also after you replace what you have, you may want to seal things up with some Lucky 7 sealent
05-19-2009, 08:55 AM
#22
Thanks JAZ! The thing that sucks is that just before racing we had completely taken the rear diff apart and replaced the ring gear because it looked worn. Didn't realize the case was going bad too, so now I'm going to replace the COMPLETE rear diff, case and all and start from scratch. I think I'm also going to put ceramic bearings in the Vspec just for grins, it couldn't hurt. Thanks guys for all the help...you ROCK!!
Good luck..Happy to help...keep us posted
05-21-2009, 11:07 PM
#23
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
Alright guys... just a quick update:
I think I'm on to something, so here goes. I replaced the carb boot and the carb neck o-ring. I made sure to seat the carb correctly and tighten it down. I then hooked up some fuel tubing to the fuel inlet and used my compressor to pump 10 psi's into the engine. I brushed some soapy water on the engine and tested for air leaks. I noticed the carb boot blows up a bit, but I think this is normal since the slide is not air tight itself (no o-rings). I also noticed some air bubbles coming from the front bearing where the crank goes through the bearing. Again, this seems normal since there is no way the crank and bearing mating surfaces can be air tight. So my conclusion is, no real air leaks.
So I take my buggy to the Rose Bowl to run it up and down and see if it's fixed. No dice. I start it and it can't even idle without stalling. I tried opening the idle gap, leaning and/or richening both needles. Still nothing. I can slowly idle up and get the engine running, but as soon as I let off the throttle, the engine dies. So after about 10 times of trying this, I noticed that there was a small amount of fuel in my pressure line flowing toward the pipe. I didn't have any extra fuel tuning with me, so I just put a loop on my pressure line (which is very short). Bam! The engine idles, it lets me turn the needles all back to stock settings and I can run it up and down the parking lot. So I ended up leaning the needles a bit from the factory settings and the buggy was screaming again. Finally. And, it didn't die on me after this until it ran out of fuel.
So my question is; is it possible for the pressure line to be too short? I never had engine trouble like this until I cut my fuel lines down in size, so it would make sense. It would also make sense that my flameouts would happen when the tank was topped off, but run a little better as the fuel ran down. Anyone care to share any input?
Now I just need to head out to the track and see if the engine responds the same during a practice session.
Thanks guys!
- JV
I think I'm on to something, so here goes. I replaced the carb boot and the carb neck o-ring. I made sure to seat the carb correctly and tighten it down. I then hooked up some fuel tubing to the fuel inlet and used my compressor to pump 10 psi's into the engine. I brushed some soapy water on the engine and tested for air leaks. I noticed the carb boot blows up a bit, but I think this is normal since the slide is not air tight itself (no o-rings). I also noticed some air bubbles coming from the front bearing where the crank goes through the bearing. Again, this seems normal since there is no way the crank and bearing mating surfaces can be air tight. So my conclusion is, no real air leaks.
So I take my buggy to the Rose Bowl to run it up and down and see if it's fixed. No dice. I start it and it can't even idle without stalling. I tried opening the idle gap, leaning and/or richening both needles. Still nothing. I can slowly idle up and get the engine running, but as soon as I let off the throttle, the engine dies. So after about 10 times of trying this, I noticed that there was a small amount of fuel in my pressure line flowing toward the pipe. I didn't have any extra fuel tuning with me, so I just put a loop on my pressure line (which is very short). Bam! The engine idles, it lets me turn the needles all back to stock settings and I can run it up and down the parking lot. So I ended up leaning the needles a bit from the factory settings and the buggy was screaming again. Finally. And, it didn't die on me after this until it ran out of fuel.
So my question is; is it possible for the pressure line to be too short? I never had engine trouble like this until I cut my fuel lines down in size, so it would make sense. It would also make sense that my flameouts would happen when the tank was topped off, but run a little better as the fuel ran down. Anyone care to share any input?
Now I just need to head out to the track and see if the engine responds the same during a practice session.
Thanks guys!
- JV
05-22-2009, 06:10 AM
#24
I had a grp do the cut out thing where it would run for 2 mine and then it was like someone turned the switch off. I tuned and checked and had another racer help me tune and it still cut out. I swapped the Engine for a new grp and it did the same thing next I swappednout the URL line and tank even though they had maybe a quart through them and problem solved. I could not see anything wrong with the tank or line but that sure solved the problem. It doesn't take much these little wngjes are very touchy.
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