Miniracer23

I have a stupid question. I'll be breaking in a new mill soon and this is gonna be the first time using this break in method. You said that factory setting may be too rich to keep temps high enough, so my question is: Do I lean out the top, bottom, or both, if it's too rich. I've always been paranoid about breaking in engines, so I might just be over analyzing it.

sluggoman

How do we get a copy of these articles, especially Super Engine Tuning?

SteveP

I think I have all the issues of the Nitro Magazine. I'll see if I can copy it somehow.

Pete Martinez

iTrader: (17)

I DID THE BREAK IN THE WAY IT WAYS POSTED AND WOW WHAT A DIFFERENCE IN POWER AND I GET 10 MINS ON ONE TANK. THANKS

Khar00f

Good day fellas,
2 days ago i bought my first RC vehicle, I was debating Between

Tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=58440 (RC Mitsubishi Lancer Evo X - DF03RA)
or
kyoshoamerica.com/cars/index.php?part_num=31043 (Nitro DRX Citroen C4 WRC from Kyosho) (finally decided on this one, hopefully a good choice) and the Futaba 2PL 2.4Ghz

and I'm about to go for my first run this week-end, and so I sumbled upon this thread while search for tips.

a lot of terms used that I'm having a hard time keeping up, Lean, Rich, BDC

Lean and Rich i presume is how much "open" the lines are to feed fuel? lean= more tightly and rich = more open

BDC is where I'm having problems, i read the thread and someone explained it, but I can't figure it out.

Right now I'm at work, so i don't have my car in front of me, I'll be re-reading the post with my car in front so i can see what he's talking about when he said to look under the vehicle.

if someone wants to clarify a bit, and i hear about pinching the fuel line and then something about too lean or rich because of pinching or maybe i misread, so if someone can take the time to clarify things a bit it'd be greatly apreciated.

A little OT: does any1 know if there's any body's that would be compatible with that car froma diff manufacturer or some third party body makers? on the Kyosho website there's only two models of this vehicle and my cousin got the 2nd model (Subaru Impreza, we each got one) and i would like a diff body. I think they might be coming out with the Mitsubishi model cause on

kyosho.com/eng/products/rc/lineup.html?series_index_id=100195&series_group_id =100077&s1=&s2=&s3=&s4=&s5=&s6=&s7=&s8=

their website under Maker, there's mitsubishi listed (crosses fingers cause I love Mitsubishi.

teamshaw

iTrader: (2)

BDC = Bottom dead centre. It's when the piston is at the very bottom. When you finish running your engine you should make sure that it's at BDC because the sleeve that the piston runs in is tapered at the top and may pinch the piston. To set it at BDC move the flywheel with your finger until you feel pressure, then the other way until you feel pressure, than move it back to the middle of the 2 points.

Pinching the fuel line is a method to check the tune on your low-end needle. Once the engine is broken in and warms up, if you pinch the fuel line and it rises a lot in RPM before stalling you are running too rich (too much fuel, not enough air). If it cuts off straight away you are running to lean (too much air, not enough fuel). You should aim for it to rise a little in rpm and cut out in about 6-8 seconds. You should also read the tuning bible thread.

Good luck!

Ben

czarc

iTrader: (1)

20% or 30% for break in??

jet flyer

iTrader: (6)

Use what ever fuel you are planning to run after break in. Just make sure if you plan on 30% that the head is shimmed for it.

themiz69

iTrader: (1)

i just purchased a traxxas jato 3.3 and i need to break it in but i have now device to measure temps. is the some way around it???

bvoltz

iTrader: (44)

And to add to another post... 20% is more available... The very little to no power gain with 30% vs the price difference is really not worth it. You will get better mileage with 20%, that only matters if you are racing...

bvoltz

iTrader: (44)

High end.

The other thing you can do to build heat is to wrap the head in aluminum foil, or remove the head, (not button) and make sure the screw do not bottom out, for the first couple of tanks. The key to all this heat cycles, you want to get the motor up in temp. I ALWAYS heat my motors with a heat gun to 200 before firing them during the break in period. That means do not just head the top of the motor, but I apply heat to the case also....

jay5280

iTrader: (13)

I live in CO and its been a cold winter. I've been wanting to break in a couple of motors but everyone around here says not to do it if its under 50. I'm not sure where the 50 number comes from but would like to understand the side effects of breaking in and running a motor in cold weather. Would someone please explain this? Is it ok to break a motor in while its cold out and are there any steps that will help this process?

Thank you in advance.

houston

iTrader: (96)

Break in of engines in the sub 50 degree keeps the engine cooled down by the cold air . Use an external heat source to keep engine around 200

jay5280

iTrader: (13)

Will there be any differences in engine life or if heated up properly things should be fine in the long run?

Thanks...

houston

iTrader: (96)

IMO , I would say you will be ok

I don't recommend breaking engines in under 45-50 degrees ambient temp but ya gotta do whatcha gotta do . On another note , cold air creates more rust causing moisture when involving metals so use After Run Oil such as rbmods .the results will be worth it