NovaMax
#76
Originally posted by InitialD
It really depends... Is the piston sleeve still tight? Do you have problems cranking the engine to start? The flywheel gets stuck? Then the engine still needs to break in.
Check the inner sleeve and see if the chrome part of the sleeve where the piston moves is polished. If it is, then the engine is broken in.
It really depends... Is the piston sleeve still tight? Do you have problems cranking the engine to start? The flywheel gets stuck? Then the engine still needs to break in.
Check the inner sleeve and see if the chrome part of the sleeve where the piston moves is polished. If it is, then the engine is broken in.
#77
Originally posted by jfc_tech
wow, do i have to open it...hmmm, this gives me worry. i usually open my engine only after fully "used"...like not performing anymore
wow, do i have to open it...hmmm, this gives me worry. i usually open my engine only after fully "used"...like not performing anymore
If you want to check the sleeve to see if the engine is broken in, you need to take off the head and look at the polished band at TDC. When the polished band is compleatly polished around the top of the sleeve then you can start to lean the engine. This is how you can tell if the motor is already broken in.
After that, check the glow plug from time to time to see if there are any distortions on the plug. A wire distortion would mean excessive compression or worse, it could be due to some foreign object in the combustion chamber like brass or aluminum debris from the conrod bushing !
#78
Originally posted by InitialD
Yes, from time to time, you need to dismantle the engine and take it off to check the condition and free play of the conrod bushing and other engine internals.
If you want to check the sleeve to see if the engine is broken in, you need to take off the head and look at the polished band at TDC. When the polished band is compleatly polished around the top of the sleeve then you can start to lean the engine. This is how you can tell if the motor is already broken in.
After that, check the glow plug from time to time to see if there are any distortions on the plug. A wire distortion would mean excessive compression or worse, it could be due to some foreign object in the combustion chamber like brass or aluminum debris from the conrod bushing !
Yes, from time to time, you need to dismantle the engine and take it off to check the condition and free play of the conrod bushing and other engine internals.
If you want to check the sleeve to see if the engine is broken in, you need to take off the head and look at the polished band at TDC. When the polished band is compleatly polished around the top of the sleeve then you can start to lean the engine. This is how you can tell if the motor is already broken in.
After that, check the glow plug from time to time to see if there are any distortions on the plug. A wire distortion would mean excessive compression or worse, it could be due to some foreign object in the combustion chamber like brass or aluminum debris from the conrod bushing !
#79
Originally posted by Ravi Nair
InitailD, my piston (top) and exhaust (out-put) in brownish in colour.I believed ts is because of the rich setting during running-in. Will it go away after we lean the engine..........or must we rebuild the engine.
InitailD, my piston (top) and exhaust (out-put) in brownish in colour.I believed ts is because of the rich setting during running-in. Will it go away after we lean the engine..........or must we rebuild the engine.
While it is not advisable to wipe the sides of the piston or polish it, you can clean the brownish stain on the piston top surface or the exhaust port of the crankcase with some alcohol or any nitro blast / cleaner.
Talking about the Max, I think one of the unique features of the engine is the smooth exhaust port on the crankcase outlet that is ported.
#80
Originally posted by InitialD
Well, I don't use the Tx. I switch off the Rx and Tx and manually open the carb with the throttle servo by hand !
Yes, we run it very rich. Each time, we increase the load by letting the wheel spin and let the Centax clutch engage. A tank of fuel will finish in 1.5 to 2 minutes. Be careful not to let the tank run out of fuel. During refueling, it is best to put the glow ignitor on the glowplug before closing the throttle and refueling.
Well, I don't use the Tx. I switch off the Rx and Tx and manually open the carb with the throttle servo by hand !
Yes, we run it very rich. Each time, we increase the load by letting the wheel spin and let the Centax clutch engage. A tank of fuel will finish in 1.5 to 2 minutes. Be careful not to let the tank run out of fuel. During refueling, it is best to put the glow ignitor on the glowplug before closing the throttle and refueling.
#81
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Originally posted by crashed_1
For those with 3PK guns...here's a neat thing to do with your third dial and switch on the Tx. Assign the IDLE UP thingy to the third dial and switch. To turn on IDLE UP just press the 3rd switch and dial up your throttle to about 30% and leave your car running. You can just turn the dial higher if your engine starts to bog during your RICH break in. Then leave the car alone and go sibuk sibuk...
For those with 3PK guns...here's a neat thing to do with your third dial and switch on the Tx. Assign the IDLE UP thingy to the third dial and switch. To turn on IDLE UP just press the 3rd switch and dial up your throttle to about 30% and leave your car running. You can just turn the dial higher if your engine starts to bog during your RICH break in. Then leave the car alone and go sibuk sibuk...
#82
Originally posted by crashed_1
For those with 3PK guns...here's a neat thing to do with your third dial and switch on the Tx. Assign the IDLE UP thingy to the third dial and switch. To turn on IDLE UP just press the 3rd switch and dial up your throttle to about 30% and leave your car running. You can just turn the dial higher if your engine starts to bog during your RICH break in. Then leave the car alone and go sibuk sibuk...
For those with 3PK guns...here's a neat thing to do with your third dial and switch on the Tx. Assign the IDLE UP thingy to the third dial and switch. To turn on IDLE UP just press the 3rd switch and dial up your throttle to about 30% and leave your car running. You can just turn the dial higher if your engine starts to bog during your RICH break in. Then leave the car alone and go sibuk sibuk...
Besides, I think you need more than 30% throttle open in order that the described method of breaking in to be successful. If you open 30% of the throttle, chances that the engine breaks in lean can happen. When you open 100%, you will surely know that the engine breaks in rich because you know that at this throttle position, the HSN (that is already set rich) is fully in control of the fuel delivery.
#83
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Originally posted by InitialD
While the idea is cool, I don't like having to strain the servo in the same position for a long time.
Besides, I think you need more than 30% throttle open in order that the described method of breaking in to be successful. If you open 30% of the throttle, chances that the engine breaks in lean can happen. When you open 100%, you will surely know that the engine breaks in rich because you know that at this throttle position, the HSN (that is already set rich) is fully in control of the fuel delivery.
While the idea is cool, I don't like having to strain the servo in the same position for a long time.
Besides, I think you need more than 30% throttle open in order that the described method of breaking in to be successful. If you open 30% of the throttle, chances that the engine breaks in lean can happen. When you open 100%, you will surely know that the engine breaks in rich because you know that at this throttle position, the HSN (that is already set rich) is fully in control of the fuel delivery.
#84
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Pls clarify this engine tuners out here...
The Max reached a 135-138deg Celcius, using 16% Nitro with Nova #5 plug. Is that ok, or not...the performance is great. Needle setting was HSN=7T out, LSN=3T. The carb only reached 70-80 max temperature.
everyone says here,at least, thats too hot. but at 7Turn out??? the standard out of box setting is at 4T... help me here.
The Max reached a 135-138deg Celcius, using 16% Nitro with Nova #5 plug. Is that ok, or not...the performance is great. Needle setting was HSN=7T out, LSN=3T. The carb only reached 70-80 max temperature.
everyone says here,at least, thats too hot. but at 7Turn out??? the standard out of box setting is at 4T... help me here.
#85
Tech Master
Originally posted by jfc_tech
Pls clarify this engine tuners out here...
The Max reached a 135-138deg Celcius, using 16% Nitro with Nova #5 plug. Is that ok, or not...the performance is great. Needle setting was HSN=7T out, LSN=3T. The carb only reached 70-80 max temperature.
everyone says here,at least, thats too hot. but at 7Turn out??? the standard out of box setting is at 4T... help me here.
Pls clarify this engine tuners out here...
The Max reached a 135-138deg Celcius, using 16% Nitro with Nova #5 plug. Is that ok, or not...the performance is great. Needle setting was HSN=7T out, LSN=3T. The carb only reached 70-80 max temperature.
everyone says here,at least, thats too hot. but at 7Turn out??? the standard out of box setting is at 4T... help me here.
#86
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Originally posted by Ah10
Definitely too hot! check your exhaust gasket, it might have damaged and you are loosing back pressure and lossing back pressure will cost engine to run extremely hot! also check your pipe and coupling make sure no leak in that area too!
Definitely too hot! check your exhaust gasket, it might have damaged and you are loosing back pressure and lossing back pressure will cost engine to run extremely hot! also check your pipe and coupling make sure no leak in that area too!
at 7Turn out should be very rich and the temp should be lower...but not mine. i have not checked the car yet or the pipe gasket. i hope thats all. thanks mate.
#87
Tech Fanatic
saw the novamax 5p and the new nova pipe combo ran yesterday. wow this little engine with the new pipe is very very fast!!!!
#88
Tech Master
Originally posted by fuse01
saw the novamax 5p and the new nova pipe combo ran yesterday. wow this little engine with the new pipe is very very fast!!!!
saw the novamax 5p and the new nova pipe combo ran yesterday. wow this little engine with the new pipe is very very fast!!!!
#89
I'm running ts engine with a 2pc Shark pipe. Can anyone tell me what is the best length for ts pipe and from where to where to measure, I think my engine is a bit on the hot side.
#90
Tech Master
Originally posted by Ravi Nair
I'm running ts engine with a 2pc Shark pipe. Can anyone tell me what is the best length for ts pipe and from where to where to measure, I think my engine is a bit on the hot side.
I'm running ts engine with a 2pc Shark pipe. Can anyone tell me what is the best length for ts pipe and from where to where to measure, I think my engine is a bit on the hot side.