STS engines
#1021
Re: nitro content?
Originally posted by noobatron
Hey guys,
i'm currently running 16% nitro on my D5 atm. Would it rev faster if i put the copper shim back and run 30% nitro?
Hey guys,
i'm currently running 16% nitro on my D5 atm. Would it rev faster if i put the copper shim back and run 30% nitro?
#1022
Tech Adept
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: australia... where koalas live on your roof
Posts: 126
STS carb
Hi dino,
I was using a RB carb before and have decided to swap back to the STS carb. I havn't used the carb ever and noticed that the mid speed needle is not flush to the carb, it looks like half a turn out(.05mm) from the carb. Is this right? Should i adjust it to be flush with the carb or is this the factory setting?
Thanx
I was using a RB carb before and have decided to swap back to the STS carb. I havn't used the carb ever and noticed that the mid speed needle is not flush to the carb, it looks like half a turn out(.05mm) from the carb. Is this right? Should i adjust it to be flush with the carb or is this the factory setting?
Thanx
#1023
Re: STS carb
Originally posted by noobatron
Hi dino,
I was using a RB carb before and have decided to swap back to the STS carb. I havn't used the carb ever and noticed that the mid speed needle is not flush to the carb, it looks like half a turn out(.05mm) from the carb. Is this right? Should i adjust it to be flush with the carb or is this the factory setting?
Thanx
Hi dino,
I was using a RB carb before and have decided to swap back to the STS carb. I havn't used the carb ever and noticed that the mid speed needle is not flush to the carb, it looks like half a turn out(.05mm) from the carb. Is this right? Should i adjust it to be flush with the carb or is this the factory setting?
Thanx
#1024
Tech Lord
iTrader: (103)
Re: STS carb
Originally posted by noobatron
Hi dino,
I was using a RB carb before and have decided to swap back to the STS carb. I havn't used the carb ever and noticed that the mid speed needle is not flush to the carb, it looks like half a turn out(.05mm) from the carb. Is this right? Should i adjust it to be flush with the carb or is this the factory setting?
Thanx
Hi dino,
I was using a RB carb before and have decided to swap back to the STS carb. I havn't used the carb ever and noticed that the mid speed needle is not flush to the carb, it looks like half a turn out(.05mm) from the carb. Is this right? Should i adjust it to be flush with the carb or is this the factory setting?
Thanx
#1025
Tech Adept
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: australia... where koalas live on your roof
Posts: 126
Re: Re: STS carb
Originally posted by dino.tw
Yes,adjust it to be flash with the carb.
Yes,adjust it to be flash with the carb.
#1026
Tech Adept
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: australia... where koalas live on your roof
Posts: 126
Re: Re: STS carb
Originally posted by 20 SMOKE
Why did you change it did you like the rb carb beter ??
Why did you change it did you like the rb carb beter ??
any tips?
#1027
Tech Master
STS D21B
#1029
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
Parts IN!!!!!
hey all i just recieved my D3R p/s set and installed them in the D3 case, just need to break-in the engine; once i find the time. Hey does anyone remeber the stock settings for the D3(D3R)? is it 4-HSN and LSN-flush with carb body and the mid-needle flush?
But yeah I am stoked!!!!
~Jason
But yeah I am stoked!!!!
~Jason
#1030
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
Hope you have better luck with yours than I have with mine.
I can't get the engine to run properly without seeing temps in the 230(idle) - 270F(after running) range. If I go to a cooler setting it is way to rich to rev out and usually stalls after idling for 3 secs when the throttle is opened.
I've tried the factory settings (LSN 4 turns out, Mid fulsh and HSN 4 turns out) but these are too rich for the motor to rev and it idles at 230F. I have tried all manner of needle settings but it's not happening for me. I pulled the carb to pieces, replaced one damaged o ring, sealed every part of the carb I could and still it seems like it has an air leak at idle.
I didn't have this trouble with either my Force 15 or the Picco Omega XT I was running before, although these were both rotary carbs.
I bought a couple of second hand motors and these are going to have to do since this STS motor is very unfriendly. I want to race, not spend frustrating days dicking around with the settings that I can never get right.
I wouldn't even want to sell this motor to someone else as I couldn't handle selling someone a dud.
I can't get the engine to run properly without seeing temps in the 230(idle) - 270F(after running) range. If I go to a cooler setting it is way to rich to rev out and usually stalls after idling for 3 secs when the throttle is opened.
I've tried the factory settings (LSN 4 turns out, Mid fulsh and HSN 4 turns out) but these are too rich for the motor to rev and it idles at 230F. I have tried all manner of needle settings but it's not happening for me. I pulled the carb to pieces, replaced one damaged o ring, sealed every part of the carb I could and still it seems like it has an air leak at idle.
I didn't have this trouble with either my Force 15 or the Picco Omega XT I was running before, although these were both rotary carbs.
I bought a couple of second hand motors and these are going to have to do since this STS motor is very unfriendly. I want to race, not spend frustrating days dicking around with the settings that I can never get right.
I wouldn't even want to sell this motor to someone else as I couldn't handle selling someone a dud.
#1031
Tech Master
*opens arms wide wide open*
I wouldn't mine giving it a go, with the option you take it back if you want it... ?! <grin> (Yeah im in OZ)
I wouldn't mine giving it a go, with the option you take it back if you want it... ?! <grin> (Yeah im in OZ)
#1032
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
Originally posted by Z00M
Hope you have better luck with yours than I have with mine.
I can't get the engine to run properly without seeing temps in the 230(idle) - 270F(after running) range. If I go to a cooler setting it is way to rich to rev out and usually stalls after idling for 3 secs when the throttle is opened.
I've tried the factory settings (LSN 4 turns out, Mid fulsh and HSN 4 turns out) but these are too rich for the motor to rev and it idles at 230F. I have tried all manner of needle settings but it's not happening for me. I pulled the carb to pieces, replaced one damaged o ring, sealed every part of the carb I could and still it seems like it has an air leak at idle.
I didn't have this trouble with either my Force 15 or the Picco Omega XT I was running before, although these were both rotary carbs.
I bought a couple of second hand motors and these are going to have to do since this STS motor is very unfriendly. I want to race, not spend frustrating days dicking around with the settings that I can never get right.
I wouldn't even want to sell this motor to someone else as I couldn't handle selling someone a dud.
Hope you have better luck with yours than I have with mine.
I can't get the engine to run properly without seeing temps in the 230(idle) - 270F(after running) range. If I go to a cooler setting it is way to rich to rev out and usually stalls after idling for 3 secs when the throttle is opened.
I've tried the factory settings (LSN 4 turns out, Mid fulsh and HSN 4 turns out) but these are too rich for the motor to rev and it idles at 230F. I have tried all manner of needle settings but it's not happening for me. I pulled the carb to pieces, replaced one damaged o ring, sealed every part of the carb I could and still it seems like it has an air leak at idle.
I didn't have this trouble with either my Force 15 or the Picco Omega XT I was running before, although these were both rotary carbs.
I bought a couple of second hand motors and these are going to have to do since this STS motor is very unfriendly. I want to race, not spend frustrating days dicking around with the settings that I can never get right.
I wouldn't even want to sell this motor to someone else as I couldn't handle selling someone a dud.
Zoom
Try add extra head shims and run #7 plug for start, you should see the different.
#1033
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
Originally posted by tl2111
Zoom
Try add extra head shims and run #7 plug for start, you should see the different.
Zoom
Try add extra head shims and run #7 plug for start, you should see the different.
I'll throw the shims back in it and see what the deal is. I've got an RB #7 plug there so I'll see what happens.
#1034
Originally posted by Z00M
Thanks Tommy, I'll try that, but I would have thought that increasing the combustion chamber size would have made it even richer, but it's the only thing I haven't tried. I spoke with Dino yesterday and he said using only the aluminium shim (copper shims removed) with 16% nitro and a Novarossi #5 plug should have been fine.
I'll throw the shims back in it and see what the deal is. I've got an RB #7 plug there so I'll see what happens.
Thanks Tommy, I'll try that, but I would have thought that increasing the combustion chamber size would have made it even richer, but it's the only thing I haven't tried. I spoke with Dino yesterday and he said using only the aluminium shim (copper shims removed) with 16% nitro and a Novarossi #5 plug should have been fine.
I'll throw the shims back in it and see what the deal is. I've got an RB #7 plug there so I'll see what happens.
You still use the smaller cooler head? 9 fins one?