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Old 03-25-2004, 10:20 PM
  #496  
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Default Re: Re: Re: JFC

Originally posted by dino.tw
Dear JFC,

During those two years have you ever change the crank and rod?
The play between crankpin and bushing should under 0.05mm. When the play is bigger than 0.1mm,that is very dangerous.

As for Tornado fuel,you may need to add 2% castor to get more lubricant.

Regards,
Dino
how do you measure the play between the crankpin and bushing?
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Old 03-25-2004, 10:47 PM
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: JFC

Originally posted by jscamry
how do you measure the play between the crankpin and bushing?
digital caliper !
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Old 03-25-2004, 10:52 PM
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Originally posted by jscamry
anyone know how byrons 20% is in comparrison to JAC's 20%? I run Byrons 20% but many here in FLa are running JAC's......

thanks Jason
run this one
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Old 03-25-2004, 11:07 PM
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thanks marcos and manicore

also I was wondering how exactly do you heat cycle and engine?

thanks Jason
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Old 03-26-2004, 01:47 AM
  #500  
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Default Re: Re: Re: JFC

Originally posted by dino.tw
Dear JFC,

During those two years have you ever change the crank and rod?
The play between crankpin and bushing should under 0.05mm. When the play is bigger than 0.1mm,that is very dangerous.

As for Tornado fuel,you may need to add 2% castor to get more lubricant.

Regards,
Dino
thanks for the reply dino.
the crank nope but the conrod, piston sleeve yes. without digital caliper...meaning im out of luck
as for the tornado 25%...add 2% castor? hows that...thats like need chemical knowledge, like in the school lab thing. can u just tell me, what brand of fuel is better...without i have to add anything? this also means ihave to change fuel. most of the fuel here does not have the ingredient details. like % of castor blah blah blah...it just said 15% nitro, 20 & 25% nitro. can u help me to decide which brand better. thanks.
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Old 03-26-2004, 07:54 AM
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jfc, that looks like my engine except iONLY GOT ABOUT 1 QUART OF FUEL OUT OF MINE
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Old 03-26-2004, 07:57 AM
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JFC, that looks like my engine except i only got ABOUT A QUART OF FUEL THROUGH MINE BEFORE IT SMOKED. live and learn i guess. one minute it was 212 degrees, the next it is smoked and worn out. that is why i asked about parts. i contacted projectzen, but they are too busy to respond i guess. does anyone in taiwan want to ship parts to me? it's usually cheaper that way anyway.
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Old 03-26-2004, 06:39 PM
  #503  
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Originally posted by tallyrc
JFC, that looks like my engine except i only got ABOUT A QUART OF FUEL THROUGH MINE BEFORE IT SMOKED. ..
If ONLY that much fuel, i will be really pissed off...BUT it is not.
I came into reality. my sts is already old. i got to except it. my fault, seldom open to check behing the backplate. just for record, this is the engine that made me into the A-main...so i got no complain. Salute to STS.
Now, if only the black heatsink prototype engine reach our Sabah Malaysia shore...i will probably be the 1st to use it
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Old 03-26-2004, 06:59 PM
  #504  
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Angry i have damn engine not starting

I have the rs5 5port. I got the engine used with 9thanks with break in, yesterday i start it and it idle for a while and dead. I have card setting at 4turns out on high speed, and 4turn on the low speed. I don't know about the middle needle (idle needle). And today it bump the flywheel so many times, it's not starting! i hate this, when i lay the car down with pipe needle down, like 12drops of fuel droping out of the pipe. I'm using nova cold plugs and sts stock plug.

HELP!
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Old 03-26-2004, 07:02 PM
  #505  
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Default Flooded?

First off you should be useing a HOT plug! Unless you have very high temps or a very long straight!
Check to see if the engine is flooded if not readjust your bottom end needle to 2.5 turns 4 out seems like too much to me.
Good luck ....Paul
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Old 03-26-2004, 07:04 PM
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Default Re: i have damn engine not starting

Originally posted by aznxlionhrt
I have the rs5 5port. I got the engine used with 9thanks with break in, yesterday i start it and it idle for a while and dead. I have card setting at 4turns out on high speed, and 4turn on the low speed. I don't know about the middle needle (idle needle). And today it bump the flywheel so many times, it's not starting! i hate this, when i lay the car down with pipe needle down, like 12drops of fuel droping out of the pipe. I'm using nova cold plugs and sts stock plug.

HELP!
wow...thats some bad news. u could open the backplate to check...maybe something is out place there. the rest...is all on dino.tw
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Old 03-27-2004, 05:31 AM
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Thanks for being so helpful.
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Old 03-27-2004, 07:14 AM
  #508  
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why dont you try a hotter plug
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Old 03-27-2004, 11:30 PM
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All right, I need to also report a broken crank shaft of my STS RS3. The reason it was broken was due to a crash with full throttle. I thought I could pass a car, but I was hit and brought me to the dang board.

That RS3 already had more than 8 gallons before it was ruined. I had changed one conrod and one wrist pin right after I have done the broken in. I ran strong till the day it died suddently.

I talked to ProjectZen about this situation, Geoff suspected that maybe it was the flywheel got locked suddently when my car crashed with full throttle and that caused the broken crank pin.

Anyway, the 2nd RS3 just broght me a 7th in qualify. I'm happy with the result cause it already had more than 5 gallons now... I put the Dragon heat sink on my RS3, the temp dropped 20F...

By the way, for all D3 and D5 owners, the first time you install a turbo glow plug, make sure you take the glow plug out and clean both the plug and turbo bottom head. Some metal coming off from the turbo bottom head were found on my glow plug and inside the engine. That happened to both my D3 & D5. I just cleaned them out, then, start the breaking-in process. So far, I had no problem. Hope this tip helps.

Last edited by wangcc61; 03-27-2004 at 11:38 PM.
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Old 03-27-2004, 11:43 PM
  #510  
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Originally posted by wangcc61
...
By the way, for all D3 and D5 owners, the first time you install a turbo glow plug, make sure you take the glow plug out and clean both the plug and turbo bottom head. Some metal coming off from the turbo bottom head were found on my glow plug and inside the engine. That happened to both my D3 & D5. I just cleaned them out, then, start the breaking-in process. So far, I had no problem. Hope this tip helps.
i once experience the metal from the bottom of the turbo plug...i changed new plug and same thing happened...went back home, open backplate, seems ok..until i disassemble the piston sleeve. the piston crack a little...that explain the debris in my plug. it can still run but y risk....right. after new p/s change, the engine ran well until the crankshaft broken...2-3 gallons afterward. so i guess, the engine done nothing wrong.
Now waiting for RS5r...black heatsink....if there's any for sell
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