Hyro

Thank you all for your interest and support!

Tallyrc, dont forget this is a mid pro , the price it is only 150Euro and 260Euro the carbon edition, it does not have all the adjustments but the options chossen for the caster and camber offers the higher contact bethween tire and track surface without compromising straight line stability ( CPu simulation).
I do have a solution for the upper arm, so that you can adjust camber more fine but I see it too complicate.
As for the caster I strongly believe it is the perfect compromise bethween straight line stability and tire contact. Anybody believes something else can order some other camber angle for 10 euros (price of two upper arms).

Now I am asking you how many times you change caster? You do have so many and varied racing tracks near you? As far as I know, 90% of drivers only participate on local area contests.

tallyrc

iTrader: (12)

i hadn't even thought about that.. kinda like the nitro tc3 you had links in the rear.. they took a beating till someone marketed "the nuts" for it... seperate links like a 12th front end would be a nightmare to maintain under that load..

Hyro

Here it is the carbon edition

snoopyrc

iTrader: (2)

Cleans up good in the black.
Will the production arms be molded or Carbon?

Hyro

The production model will be as in the picture. Carbon is no good for arms. Arms must absorb force, bend a lot and come back to initial form. The weight of all 8 arms is 40grams , made from carbon fiber will be 30grams, so not that much earn knowing that carbon fiber costs 4 times more than fiberglass.

SpraydbySprague

iTrader: (64)

Really neat vehicle. Nice to see a touring car get back to a simple, yet effective design. Low parts count means lower cost as well. Are the suspension arms the same for left and right?
I thought of an idea for caster change. Instead of inserting the ball directly into the upper arm, insert the ball into replaceable eccentric inserts to achieve caster change. Ball goes into insert, then the insert bolts to the arm. Depending on which way the insert is in the arm, or which insert you use, will change the caster. You can have multiple inserts available with incremental offsets.
Another question. What kind of screws are on this car? Looks like the shocks are bolted on with slotted screws, and the shock towers look like there are phillips head screws holding them on.

Hyro

The scrwes will be all the same, philips, we are working on this issue.
There will be also hop up option for titanium screws and aluminium shims.

In the pivor area there are preaty high forces and I dont think another piece will stay togheter with the rest. later I will show you our ideea for 3 different caster options and lot of camber options.

And yes, you can use left upper arm for left and right

Hyro

Hyro was at Grand Prix of Bulgaria kept on a great track in Vratsa. Hyro took 4th place in final B and 14 place from 25 contenders on 1/10 electric touring class. A very good result taken into consideration the high rate of the competition and the fact it was alone betwheen Xray Serpent and Tamiya.

Best time was 15 Laps in 5:07min , Best lap 18.247sec
We have a link to movies but I am not alowed yet to post links.

ChattyMatty

Sorry if the on-line translator sucks, but I tried , Welcome friend! I am a Tamiya fanboy at heart so I am used to expensive kits, and I realize you are not responsible for monetary exchange rates, but right now 260E is about $360US, plus shipping. The design looks pretty tough, but I have to ask which business model are you following? Some companies make you pay more to get in the door, then charge you pennies for replacement parts. Tamiya makes superior quality kits that are medium priced, but you have to spend bucket loads on upgrades to get a race ready car. Given the higher price of entry compared to a TB03, albeit yours seems a more race ready car, what's your opinion on what replacement parts will cost? Since it seems that the biggest R/C markets are many hundreds if not thousands of kilometers away from Romania, do you feel the possible lower production costs of parts made in Romania will balance out the higher shipping costs? The guys in southeast Asia have a million competitors thus it keeps prices low...how many vendors in Romania or elsewhere will be competing to keep prices low? Do you have a U.S. vendor lined up yet? (Please try Ampdraw, they're only a few miles from me, lol!)

Please don't take this the wrong way- looking at your design I see a million possibilities- 210/225/239mm mini chassis, 1/12th, F1, and so on with the same basic central drive train and a simple exchange of a few CNC parts, which would be much faster and cheaper for you to alter in a computer program than in actual plastic molds, but right now, Tower (not the cheapest guy in town) has Tamiya TB03's for $220, that leaves $140+ for upgrades and no worries about parts availability or long shipping times. Myself, I'd run something like this just to freak out the guys at the local track by having something totally unique (who else do you know building a full boat FF02, lol), and would easily pay the extra $100 just to say "It's Romanian, yeah your cookie cutter HPI is real nice, just like the guy standing next to you, and the guy next to him..." but $400 for a car I'll run once, break something, and then never be able to get parts for isn't all that great a deal.

Sincerely, I wish you all the best, I love to see underdogs fighting their way into the establishment and making a name for themselves, and if nothing else, at least you put into production something that a thousand guys around here wish they had the skills to design, myself included.

Best of luck,
-M

Hyro

Dear Matty,

A lot of people scared about the rate exchange rates Euro/dollar. The price is for Euro market only, once we decide to go inercontinental we will figure out a sollution that the carbon kit will cost 260USD in US and will be made from Carbon fiber , not plastic like TB03.
TB03 or E10, or TT01 must be compared with RTR Fiberglass version , wich will be available for 180Euro, 250USD right now.

The replacement parts will costs very low, all car is supose to be a cheaper solution to what is on the market now.

So far US market is far from Romania, but I hope it will get closely

mikky32

It's a good looking car and for that price.
Also i will believe that it's a good car for people that don't now how to setup a car.
Were can you buy one?

joe of loath

iTrader: (1)

To be honest I don't think the E10 compares to the fiberglass version of this car. It sucks! This car is probably better than a TB03 too.

I like cars that small companies/home builders make. I made my own RWD TC a few months ago, and as far as I know, have used techniques never used before in a touring car. The front suspension was provided by chassis flex, so in effect the loaded wheel gets more camber AND toe. If your car has reactive toe, as someone suggested, it will handle incredibly well.

niznai

Hyro,

Congratulations on your very good results in the Bulgarian race. Hope to see you downunder some time soon.

You can email me the links to the videoclips and I'll post them here.

About the caster change, the problem is not that people change it very often but they do adjust it to the track they run on, so more options would attract people racing on various surfaces where different caster angles would be required. There is however a simple solution I see without any need for new parts. Just provide a number of holes in the top plate for the inboard balljoints and you're set. This would be even better since I know a lot of top guys race on different tracks so they wouldn't feel restricted.

Chatty Matty, the web based translation is actually surprisingly accurate. I only wish my german translations would work as well as that.

Hyro

I already posted a movie on Hyro's web site

Niznai, the caster holes should be too close one of eachater if I want 2,4,6 degrees. Thank you for apreciations!

niznai

I know. This may not be a problem though if you only overlap them partially like the shock upper holes on Xray cars. Another option would be to offset them such that say the front hole is further outboard and the rear hole is further inboard such that the distance to the hub carrier balljoint is kept but moved further back.