BIG PROBLEM!
04-19-2009, 05:45 PM
#31
Working in a hobby shop, I have only seen this same scenario about 1000 times.
Reading the manual and asking lots of questions really helps to prevent the frustration. The fact you even asked about 2 needles means you didnt even look at the manual.
As long as the conrod isnt sticking out of the side of engine case, chances are your engine will still be good enough to run another day. Should be good enough to get used to tuning. Do as the others have suggested and return the main needle to the recomended factory settings. Also, did you pull the engine apart and seal all potential air leaks? Base of the carb and back plate should be pulled off and add a very thin coat of High temp silicone to both. Even if your neddle was where it is supposed to be an air leak can cause an engine to run lean, but it would be a major air leak to make it run as described.
If the engine ever runs like that again, quickly flip the car over and using the toe of a decent pair of shoes or better yet work boots to jam into the flywheel and stop that motor. Never use your fingers when its reving like that or you will loose a finger.
Reading the manual and asking lots of questions really helps to prevent the frustration. The fact you even asked about 2 needles means you didnt even look at the manual.
As long as the conrod isnt sticking out of the side of engine case, chances are your engine will still be good enough to run another day. Should be good enough to get used to tuning. Do as the others have suggested and return the main needle to the recomended factory settings. Also, did you pull the engine apart and seal all potential air leaks? Base of the carb and back plate should be pulled off and add a very thin coat of High temp silicone to both. Even if your neddle was where it is supposed to be an air leak can cause an engine to run lean, but it would be a major air leak to make it run as described.
If the engine ever runs like that again, quickly flip the car over and using the toe of a decent pair of shoes or better yet work boots to jam into the flywheel and stop that motor. Never use your fingers when its reving like that or you will loose a finger.
04-19-2009, 05:47 PM
#32
Tech Apprentice
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04-19-2009, 05:51 PM
#33
04-19-2009, 05:51 PM
#34
Tech Master
04-19-2009, 05:53 PM
#35
If you just almost blew an engine I would not get a ninja. If you are looking to get a new engine do as told and get the n 21bf. It will be good quality and u can get 2 of those for theprice of 1 ninja. Learn how to tune before you do nYTHING.
04-19-2009, 05:56 PM
#36
what kind of engine do you recomend??? It's a good engine??? and i know this will sound silly, but is it fast???
faster then my .26 ofna??? it's one of the older modles
faster then my .26 ofna??? it's one of the older modles
04-19-2009, 05:57 PM
#37
Tech Apprentice
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let me know if you decide to sell your setup....lol.... like he said dont get a ninja until you learn to tune... ive heard from several people that ninja engines are very hard to tune... Still good luck to you!
04-19-2009, 06:00 PM
#38
Tech Master
Novarossi N21bf all the motor you need in a MBX6. Unless you run at revelation raceway.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/31073
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/31073
04-19-2009, 06:09 PM
#40
Don't sell it and don't buy anything. If it still has compression it is still ok. You can take it to LHS or find someone to help you maybe at the local track. Start with your Idle gap and factory needle settings, make sure plug is good and go from there. There is plenty of help here and believe me everyone here nows how much money is spent on this hobby.
I run electric and nitro. I have yet to find anything that makes be feel better than a nitro engine screaming down the straight.
Hang in there!
I run electric and nitro. I have yet to find anything that makes be feel better than a nitro engine screaming down the straight.
Hang in there!
04-19-2009, 06:11 PM
#41
Tech Master
04-19-2009, 06:20 PM
#42
i appologize. It was not directed towards anyone here by any means. I was very very upset. I hope you understand. The engine has it's normal compression, but i cannot get it too start. You say it might still be ok? It was still on my starter box when this happened when the engine started smoking when it kept on at full speed i could not remember how to turn it off. After about 15 maybe 20 seconds of freaking out i took my shirt and covered up the hole on the mufler. I was about to rip the fuel line out!
04-19-2009, 06:22 PM
#43
by the way, there was no manual the motor was given to me by a friend. Say what you will about ofna engines but that sonofagun was turning some mean ass rpm's
nevermind the rpm were so high it fried it. Oh and it was lean.
nevermind the rpm were so high it fried it. Oh and it was lean.
04-19-2009, 06:25 PM
#44
my friend tried to steer me away from a kit. He wanted me to get a kyosho inferno rtr. But i have to build it. That is just as much fun as driving it to me.
04-19-2009, 06:26 PM
#45
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
Totally understood. I learned how to tune on a Go 3PT Race spec. I've beeeeen pissed off over an engine before.
Learn how to tune before you get a top of the line mill. It's nicer to ruin a cheap mill vs. a $300+ race engine. And you will ruin at least one engine during the learning process. All the theory in the world that you pick up from other people will not come close to trial and error.
Learn how to tune before you get a top of the line mill. It's nicer to ruin a cheap mill vs. a $300+ race engine. And you will ruin at least one engine during the learning process. All the theory in the world that you pick up from other people will not come close to trial and error.