Jonathan Bell

iTrader: (15)

I have a noob question i guess. I have 2 tc3's and one of them I let my son drive today and the thing would turn left awesome but it will not turn right but just a tinch. I have checked the epa's and the thing is lock to lock. It don't look like the saver is engaging and the wheels stays turned just it don't want to rotate that way for some reason. I checked the bearings in the rear hubs and they seem to be fine. The diffs are adjusted according to manual.(till it stops then back off half turn) This one has me scratching my head any help would be great. thx

SammyXp

It seems like you've double checked all the basics, but what about suspension settings? Everything reset to OEM specs for caster/camber/toe, etc?
The TC3, in factory form, tends to turn left somewhat better because of the battery offset. Then there's the inherent torque steer of a shaft drive touring car. Takes a little getting used to.

cherokee

iTrader: (1)

I still like my TC3. I run stock brushed class and don't think that the torque steer problems are that big a deal unless you run a hotter motor. I am not sure if a belt car is that much bigger deal in the class I run, I know the big factor is my driving. As soon as I can keep it off the boards for a race I know I will be ready to move up.

Having problems keep the back end planted, anyone reccomend on a shock oil and spring setup for carpet to try.

I like the car take the motor out and it rolls so free, it seems much more free then a belt car, much less drag...I would think that has to be better.

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

If you are having steering problems on the TC3 or TC4, check to make sure the steering rack servo saver spring is tightened properly. There is a hole in the bottom of the chassis that will line up with the servo saver bolt if the rack is centered. If the spring doesn't have enough tension, you will get inconsistent performance. Sometimes the server saver spring can get weak or is a bit too short. You can add a thin washer to help add some tension to the spring. It should take a bit of force to move the servo saver at the rack.

The other thing to check on the TC3 steering rack is built up debris in the rack itself. Because of the design, gunk can build up on the rack itself causing steering issue. Also if you run outside small rocks can lodge themselves in the rack. You may need to take the steering rack out and clean it if necessary. This is also a good chance opportunity to check the servo saver.

Check the car for broken parts and binding suspension. Loose or missing screws in the steering knuckles can make the car handle eractically. Binding rear suspension can cause a rear arm to stick a lift a rear tire. Unhook the rear shocks from the a-arms and make sure they move freely. Make sure the shocks also move freely when mounted to the arms.

If you've check over the whole car, last thing you will want to check is tweak. There are plenty of articles on how to balance a touring car. If any touring car is out of balance, you will experience better turning to one direction.

A well balanced shaft car will have little or no torque steer if setup properly.

JeremyH

I have been running my modified TC3 for quite some time now and was wanting to step up to a 3S lipo but am unsure if my motor and stock gearing will be able to handle voltage. I am mostly concerned with overheating the motor. The ESC should not have any troubles with the 3S.

If anyone has any advice, that would be great.

Specs:
TC3 Stock gearing (spur and pinion)
2S 4800mAh Elite Lipo
19T Blue Axiom Brushed motor
Sidewinder ESC
Rear spool/Open front
Aluminum and carbon stuff

Thanks!

Scooter79rs

iTrader: (9)

Hi, yesterday day I broke my FT TC4 and in the process I lost a drive cup for my front one way diff. I was wondering if the front one way diffs are interchangable between the tc4 and tc3. I want the part number(s) for the drive cup or a whole diff with drive cups.

Syber Serulean

iTrader: (28)

rear spool? you drifting?

JeremyH

Nope, this is just used for general on road (concrete) racing with some of the guys I work with....nothing fancy. I like the way a locked rear handles.

JeremyH

Tower hobbies lists the part as being for the TC3/4:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRLN7&P=7

However, take that information with a grain of salt...they are sometimes wrong with their descriptions.

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

They are the same pieces for both cars. They used to just sell the outdrives for them but I couldn't find the part number in their database. So you might be stuck getting the entire item.

JeremyH

Anyone have any input on this??

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

You didn't mention if you are trying to run the TC3 for ultimate speed or drifting.

I have run my TC3 on a large Velodrome for a 4 minute heat at an average of 60mph. At that speed, I would recommend to bullet-proof the drive train.

- Make sure you are running the white bevel gears in the transmission. When the Nitro TC3 came out, they switched to white gears and they seem to be more durable.

- Run steel outdrives if possible. The aluminum outdrives are soft and will wear out. The plastic outdrives have a tendency to melt to the bevel gears if not adjusted properly in high power situations.

- Upgrade the drive shaft to titanium. The aluminum and stock drive shafts have a tendency to vibrate at extreme RPM. Niftech makes titanium drive shafts that are very light and durable.

- 48 pitch gears are more durable. As brushless has become more popular, it has become easier to find very small 48 pitch spur gears - some as low as 60 tooth. Check Robinson Racing, Kimbrough, or PRS for gears. 64 pitch will work, but you will want to triple check your gear mesh.

JeremyH

This car is just being used for general racing (mostly oval style concrete track)...no (intentional) drifting.

Thanks for the tips. I will check out Niftech.

I went ahead and stuck with another 2S battery just to be safe.

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

I should add that unless you are running at extreme speed/RPM, the Niftech drive-shaft isn't necessary as it is expensive. I'm using a blue aluminum drive-shaft in my VTA TC3 without any issues. The only time I ever had issues with the stock or aluminum shaft was 6-cell/10 turn geared for 60mph+. The shaft would vibrate and rub the servo mount. I had stock shaft fail at full speed and it broke the receiver's antenna. Cool if you are a spectator watching a touring car launch over the wall at a Velo, but not if you are the owner. Luckily it didn't break too many parts.

The nice think about Niftech is that they also sell a shaft with swivel pins that prevent some of the backlash that you can get with shaft drive cars. Here is a link to their TC3 products - http://www.niftech.com/catalog.php?mode=tc3

JeremyH

Yeah, I wasnt sure if I was planning on upgrading to their shaft as I am only running at about 35mph and the aluminum one has had no issues so far. I have, however, killed a ring and pinion gear in the rear.