newera152

iTrader: (4)

racing is about to start up again and I'm going to change all the bearings in the car, does anyone no which is best Rubber sealed or Teflon sealed ones or should I just buy one of those bearing washers uses where talking about. lets talk. Ive had my TC3 for the bast 2 yrs.

anthony390

what kind of bearings do you have right now in your tc3

RED-LINE M03

iTrader: (127)

Anybody have any good TC-3 web sites that they could share. (part,performance, and set ups)



Thanks,
E

BMI TC-3

Aries326

iTrader: (19)

The M03 is alot lighter than the TC3, that's probably why it was going alot faster with a mabuchi compaed to the TC3 with a 27T. For better speeds, get a modified motor.

BatJam1

Teflon sealed are better but more expensive.if your budget minded try this web sight www.avidrc.com .This ones more expensive
http://acerracing.com/index.html

newera152

iTrader: (4)

batjam1 have you ever used the Dual Super Polyamide Sealed bearing the look nice also the are the same pirce of the teflon oones i was going for ,but dont know how good the are.
Thanks,N/E152

deeman

I've been running TC3's for about 3 years now (FT and FT IRS). As for bearings, I don't buy the exotics because they cost too much for the type of performance they give. What I recommend is pick up a bunch of the duratrax bearings (especially the size to fit the hubs). Remove the shields and clean them out with nitro/engine cleaner. I put mine in one of those vibrating cleaners. Now here's the fun part. After they are all clean, your going to pick the best to put on the car (the reason for buying extras). Snug them on the tip of a pencil and blast them (at an angle) with compressed air (canned air will do). They should spin freely for well over 20 to 30 seconds. Set aside the ones that spin the longest. These will be the ones you put back on the car. Ater you've pulled out the best, give them just a small drop of very light bearing oil. Don't bother putting the shields back on, they actually slow down the bearing in some cases. Reassemble the car with the selected bearings.

Now, without tires on the car, spin one of the axles or the center shaft. The car's drivetrain should spin freely for atleast 30 - 40 seconds. If not, check the drivetrain for binding and free up as neccessary.

Once everything is free, you should have a smooth rolling TC#, that when pushed with tires (without a motor) should free roll ataleast 15 feet (really). This will ultimately make your car more efficient in the corners as you get off the gas, it won't slow down as much.

Just my 2 cents :-).

d...

Mr.Pink

iTrader: (2)

i don't think a MO3 is light than a TC3 . I am going to run some new batt packs tomorow and see if it was just the batts .
and maybe i will check and see if i have any binding in the drive train aswell . should be smooth though i just install a front one diff and clean everything good .

anthony390

umm... does oiling your Metal shield bearings in the hubs and the input shafts bad with 80wt shock oil

the half rubber half exposed shielded bearings in the diff case that goes on the outdrives, i put petroleum jelly in them

does any body think that this method is bad but when i role the bearings it seems to be just fine and i feel no grit or problems with it

oh ya the balls in the bearing move very well with the bearing

BatJam1

heres a link you might be interested in
http://www.avidrc.com/?action=support#clean


Also NewEra Honestly i havent tried them. but i'm sure they cant be all that bad.

deeman

Just keep in mind the info about lubing on the site above is talking about beerings in a nitro vehicle. Thick oil is ok in that situations (clutch and hubs) since they are under more stress. An electric car only needs a very light oil and only a little bit. Vaseline and 30wt shock oil is just waaaaaay tooooo thick. I have beerings that when sprayed with compressed air for a moment will spin for over 35 seconds.

The goal is to get the car as free rolling as possible.

Free rolling w/o motor = more efficiency with it.

anthony390

thanks everybody so my method is a bit to much if you sum it up

anthony390

what i ment to say is my lubbing or oiling is to thick

Hawk6

iTrader: (52)

Last weekend I did some indoor carpet racing with my Tamiya TB-02 and my TC3. Both were set up according to the instructions.

My TC3 seemed twitchy and wandered some on the straight away. The TB-02 just seemed smooth as silk by comparison.

To be fair, I bought the TC-3 off E-Bay (used), and built the TB-02 myself new. Also, the TC3 has a beat up Stratus body - would cracked and bent up body mess up handling that much?

I'm not an expert, somewhere between "sportsman" and stock rubber.

Is the Tamiya TB-02 known to be easier to drive? For where my skill level is at right now, I just can't wait to drive it again. Or, should the TC3 be as good or better and I just have the set-up wrong, or - being used - it just has slop in it or something?

I'm not trying to pump up the TB-02 or rip the TC3, just trying to learn. Please share your thoughts.

Thanks.

dodo

given the condition of the TC3, it could be those 'hidden' problems. I never compared the two head to head though. but in my opinion the second hand TC3 might not be in near 100% condition, could be a bent hinge pins, bent suspension mount, or any other problem could have related to handling issue. My suggestion is that you rebuild the TC3 and check for any broken or bent parts.

my 2 cents