A_Stratus

I was just wondering if anyone has tried taking off the seals on their bearings? I know you wouldn't want to take the diff ones off but what about the ones in the steering hubs? I know when you take the seals off the bearings, they require alot more maintance. I take my TC3 apart nearly after every race day and clean out my bearings anyways... I was just curious if this would make a difference...

rpmmaxxed

Nice looking car. Ill get some of mine up tomorrow.

LancerEvoV

Hey guys, im kinda new to the scene, ive got a TC3 up and almost ready to run, I only have one problem, i dont know anything about gearing. The engine i have is a trinity monster stock and i run fusion 3300's. It would be amazingly great if you could reccomend me a pinion/spur setup for a good balance between speed and acceleration.

BTW: J240z that car is damn good looking, whered you get those rims?

Thanks much,
an rc newcomer.

PIIHB!

iTrader: (14)

I bought a used TC3 off a fellow racer. What would be a good starting setup for a tight indoor asphalt track w/ foam tires? The track has alot of bite. Thanks!

lem2

iTrader: (6)

Hi, depnds on how big the track your are running on, tight? flowing?
Assuming that you have a kit standard of 72t spur gear, try to have a final drive ratio of around 7.5(24t pinion) to 6.7(27t pinion). Some go lower and higher, it willl really depend on the track you are runing on.
Here is a final drive ratio if you are using 48pitch spurs

69 SPUR GEAR

23 = 7.50
24 = 7.18
25 = 6.90
26 = 6.63
27 = 6.38
28 = 6.16
29 = 5.95


72 SPUR GEAR

23 = 7.82
24 = 7.50
25 = 7.20
26 = 6.92
27 = 6.66
28 = 6.43
29 = 6.21


75 SPUR GEAR

23 = 8.15
24 = 7.81
25 = 7.50
26 = 7.21
27 = 6.94
28 = 6.69
29 = 6.46

Peace and Happy Racing!

Shalala

Dear all,

Anyone using IRS main shaft?
How is the weight compare with original aluminium shaft?
Also , harder than original?

Thx

j240z

Thanks for the compliments. The rims are Take Offs. They are the premounted wheels/tires with CS-32 slicks. My LHS carries them in black and white. I think they looks sweet too!

roddude65

well lazyeh .. it all depends on if your running indoors on carpet or outdoors on any surface ..

for indoor running on carpet I pull off the inner shield of all the wheel hub bearings .. both shields on all the front diff case bearings ... the rear shield on the front spur gear support bearing .. and then both shields on all the rear diff case bearings ..

I havent had any issues with bearings seizing up running them this way indoors .. and the drivetrain is soo free with them like that .. feels like the $35 stock bearing kit is a $100 boca set ...

for outdoors .. I have all the shields that face to the outside of the car inplace .. so the hubs are the same .. but at the diff cases the large bearings have one shield facing out .. and the front case has the second bearing with a shield .. the inner bearing is still shieldless because thats inclosed .. and then at the rear diff case all the bearings have a shield facing out ..

just my thoughts on the bearing shield thing ..

also .. on the grub screw problem that j240z posted about .. if you can .. just get all losi knuckles .. My car handles sooo much better with the losi knuckles at all four corners .. the losi rears have better settings for roll center and camber gain due to chassis roll .. and the fronts give just a tad bit more steering throw .. I still use assc C- hubs .. except for the insane tracks where I fit the losi 6* hub carriers for mod .. just a thought to pass along .. I have never had either hub assc or losi lose a hinge pin like that .. but if you want to change thats what you will gain .. again .. just my thoughts ..

have fun racing everyone

E

billtc3

i was allways wondering if it is worth milling the tc3 chassis to bring the battery closer to center. i have never seen an ae team driver car with a milled chassis. why don't they do it?

A_Stratus

Thanks roddude! I am going to take them off and give it a whirl. I am only running indoor on ozite so I should be fine. I already have it pretty free, but it you know, you can always get it to be more free

Thanks again,
Aaron

BadSign

iTrader: (15)

John and Dave, and anyone else as well:

I'm curious how much larger you've increased the motor slot to increase airflow. I thought about stopping at the bulkheads around that area and was curious.

BTW, I'm a new TC3 owner, and I'm up to page 32 on this forum 10% down...

Brian

tornado

Hey John !

I'm looking for the Corally Assassin's cvds...any webby trade international ? Corally stuff not available in this part of the world.

Thanks
Bryan

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

BILLTC3: Two team drivers that have had their chassis "milled" where the battery is closer to the centerline is Mike Blackstock and Barry Baker. There may be more but, these two i mentioned because i have actually seen them with my own two eyes in person, not in a picture. Barry has had his like that for well over a year now. The end result is well worth doing it, or even getting someone else to do it for you.

BADSIGN: Welcome to the TC3 forum! Looks like JOHNBULL milled his out under the motor quite a bit. I actually removed material from the bracing that is in front of the endbell, to allow all of the air to hit the endbell from my fan. I opted not to remove any plastic from under the motor for weight reasons. Im sure though the most important thing is to make sure any corners are well rounded, and not sharp 90 degree corners. Rounded corners tend to be stronger through chassis flexing than any corner that comes to a 90 degree box. I would say you could remove all of the area under the motor except 1mm that would allow support to the motor "bay" bracing/sidewalls. With all the chit chat about that area warping from heat from motors, it seemed to me that removing the material could make for a larger problem. I personally have never had a chassis warp there, but i never "cook" my motors either. Either way, the fan induces the cooling i need, im sure JOHNBULL has even more with that area removed from his chassis. As with all things of this type, you just have to try it to see! Good luck!

- DaveW

roddude65

BADSIGN :

I personally have never removed material from under the motor .. so I cant say what you should do there .. I would watch how much you take out tho since it will be weakening one of the highest stress areas under acceleration .. I would if your running a fan carve out the front brace of the motor "bay" area just to get more airflow .. as for the underside .. if you run your body right .. not much air is down there anyways to help with motor cooling .. but thats up to you ..

BILLTC3 :

I have had My chassis milled for the past year with no adverse side effects .. i do think the chassis gets a bit on the flexy side when milled .. but I havent had any big negitives from that .. I am trying something with this new chassis and I will let everyone in on it when I find out if it works or not .. I hope to be hitting the rug here in another two or three weeks for some testing with the chassis I am modding now ..

have fun racing everyone

E

kh15

i may mill my battery closer to the center, because i have shop class at high school so i can cut it on a cnc machine for extra credit, but does anyone have a site with a review of this mod
?