MarchTC3

try a front swaybar and softer rear. If not enough go stiffer on the front

Bubblestc3

Don't you think that the ratio's are a little high(especially for a D5)? Those ratios are 7.2/6.9...

I don't know about you, but my Monster Stock feels good at 7.2ish. With mod, many have found that the motors like to be geared around 10ish. Mod, with a 7.2 just sounded a little off.

johnbull

BIRTHDAY CELEBRATIONS BEGIN.

The TC3 is like a good bottle of wine. It improves with age.

Five years on and TC3s are still winning more than anything else, all over the World.

In Malta yesterday, Sunday, the TC3 celebrated it's 5th birthday in fine style when firstly Adrian Farrugia clinched the Super Stock title with his TC3, and later in the afternoon Joshua Anastasi became National Champ for the 6th time when he totally dominated the modified class with his TC3. Joshua has won 20 of the 23 rounds held to date. With 6 rounds left, these 2 TC3 drivers have been so dominant all season that they can just sit back and watch as the others keep trying to beat them.

Both Joshua's modified class TC3, and Adrian's Super Stock TC3 are prepared by JOHN BULL RACING . They have run all season exclusively with Corally motors and cells, Novak speed controls, KO Propo servos and transmitters and Protoform body shells.

Check out the pic of these great guys and their TC3s. Adrian on the left. Josh in the middle.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.

johnbull

Sorry about the pic.

Try again.

Bubblestc3

It is amazing that after the TC3 is still so competitive. I have always been amazed with how easy to drive the car is, and even with a half azz setup the car will work. The car MUST have been ahead of it's time when released in 1999, to STILL be winning races almost everywhere. Although there has been a few adjustments to the car, like the arms, and chassis, about 80-90% of the original design is still there, and competitive!!!

Great job Cliff, and all of the Associated team!

zgeist

I have a setup question for you guys... I have a BMI TC3 with pretty close to a stock setup, but I'm having this odd problem - the back end of the car bumps as it goes around corners. And on one particularly nasty hairpin turn at our track, if I'm not very careful, the car will barrel roll.

The associated setup guide says that if your car "chatters" in the corners then your need to use lighter shock oil. But I'm not sure if this would count as "chattering" - and none of the other setup guides I have read seem to describe this particular problem.

The problem was helped quite a bit when I rebuilt my shocks - but it came back over the course of the evening. The shocks are almost brand new.

Is it too much traction in the rear, or too little?? Or is it some sort of roll center problem? Is oil leaking out of my shocks? Would installing rubber shock bladders help? I really hate rebuilding shocks.. it's so messy.

Anyway, any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

Speedo

Try using the inner-lower position for the rear camber links.

Josh

mistercrash

iTrader: (5)

I have noticed that this thread falls down to the second page quite often lately. Could it be that everything has been said and done about the TC3????

acyrier

iTrader: (8)

IMO, shock bladders will make the shocks more consistant and a LOT less messy to build.

Speedie

Ill second that. I recently switched to using Tamiya TRF shocks with the bladders. Ill never use a bladderless shock again, after using these the others are a waste of time, I know Yokomo makes good ones as well. Are there any others that use bladders?

acyrier

iTrader: (8)

I use General Silicones bladder rebuild kits for 10th scale cars. They come with (5) bladders and at LEAST 10-12 little O-Rings (and I think 4 orings for cap). All that for less then $4.00.

I have them on my associated tc3 and T4 threaded shock bodies. I have NO leakes and I only rebuild about every 1.5 months of weekly racing. (about every 7-8 weeks racing (3) races a night and once a week).

Some "tips" I have:
Make sure all the "burs" are off the plastic parts at the bottom of the shock
Use associated "Green slime" on the small orings. I believe this helps lubricate where the shaft goes through them. Espeically when building it. When I didn't use the slime, I "think" the threads of the shock shaft would sometimes tear the Oring and I'd be pulling it apart and starting over.

zgeist

I'm interested in trying the bladders, but I've never had shocks that use them before. I think Speedtech sells Yokomo ones that may work in the Assoc. shocks. Do you have a url for General Silicones?

Can you describe how to install the shock bladders?

What is the theory behind them, ie, why are the bladders better?

Thanks very much for your help!

acyrier

iTrader: (8)

I don't know about theory, but here's the difference...

When building the associated shocks, your supposed to fill the bodies AND the caps then putting the two together. Those of us who do this, KNOW it's a messy pain the a$$. I think it's very difficult to get it right and w/little to no air in the assembly. The "bladders" eliminates the need to put oil in the cap. It kinda looks like a shower cap (maybe..can't think of better way to describe. You fill the "body" all almost to the rim, (about 1/16" shy) The cap then goes in ontop of the body (crown down)then screw on the cap on.

Below...crude...real crude drawing.
_0_
/ \ shock cap


\__/ bladder cap

| |
| |
| | Shock body
| |
\__/
|
| shaft

Links: (the gs site seems very slow this morning)
http://www.gsracing.com.tw
http://www.gsracing.com.tw/getdata.php?id=GS-340027RD
http://www.gsracing.com.tw/getdata.php?id=GS-SH-10PR
http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/prod...prod=GSCSH10FO
Note, these things come in colors...how wierd, they go on the INSIDE of hte bodies and can't even be seen

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

IMHO-I think the bladders serve two purposes and vary on noticeable performance on rubber tires on asphalt and indoors on carpet.

1. Eliminates mess and builds an easy to do and consistent shock.

2. Help in rebound.
a. On asphalt-with lighter springs, you can use thicker bladders or foam inserts on top of the baldder with very soft springs (gold, green, etc.) and this may help the car recover out of a corner and stand back-up.

b. On Carpet-high bite-you wont feel the bladders unless your Josh Cyrul. But-even with that-you should run the thinnest-softest bladders anyways.


Ray

OB42TC3

The brokomo bladders work great (not the whole retrofit kit, bladders only). I used the high traction ones and it increased the damping force so I had to step down in shock oil weight 10-20. So a little adjustment but well worth the lack of hassle for perfect shocks.