lem2

iTrader: (6)

diff gears will work, use your reamer to widen the middle hole, do it slowly until it fits the IRS solid axle
Peace and happy racing! Lem

Horatio

zgeist:

You got pm. Thanks for your efforts in replying
Those cuda guys sure get grumpy quick

All other TC3 Drivers:

I had been discusssing with zgeist about the steering on the TC3 and how it has more lock to the right than it does to the left. zgeist told me that on the Associated forum, it was claimed that ' the Assymetric steering lock was a 'designed feature' to prevent the servo from becoming locked'. Hmmmmm.


The other 'explanations' have included that 'the feature is to help with the torque steer issue on the TC3'. ?

Decreasing the lock to the left would surely mak it MORE likely to stall/lock a servo - especially on budget radios where there is no no ATV/Rate adjustability.

Torque Steer is Torque Steer - messing with the lock aint going to change it!!

Racing a TC3 with Assymetric steering is a no-no on tight indoor circuits where you need lots of lock BOTH WAYS just to get round the track - let alone be quick. This especailly true when racing indoors on control tyres that aren't especially good - don't ask me how I know ;-)

I'm beginning to think that this is actually a production error and that Associated can't be assed to fix it! I'm hoping you guys will correct me on this though - that's why I'm here

I hope some one can solve this mystery..............

BTW, none of the Cuda guys could explain why their motors are on the wrong side........

Horatio

BTW

On my TC3's, I applied the dremmel to the offending left c hub carrier to allow the same lock as to the right. It vastly improves the steering.

If you are thinking of doing the same GO EASY because if you remove too much material and increase the lock too much, you could cause increased wear to the drive-shafts due to the excessive lock!!!!!

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

BRAD: The Losi steering knuckles are a direct fit for the TC3 as mentioned before, and give you added steering throw. The Losi parts also change ackerman, the arm on the knuckle is shorter than the one on the standard TC3 steering hub. The REALLY good thing is that they dont rip out as easily as the standard TC3 parts. But i want to point out... any part will break if you hit the wall hard enough. Megatech makes a NICE set of aluminum steering hubs for the TC3, but ballstuds will break off into the aluminum if you arent careful. Good luck!

Horatio: If you are using full steering lock on your TC3, you are going too slow. Im not saying this as an insult, but fast cars utilize very little steering throw. Its just a fact. Time spent grinding your hubs for "perfect" left and right balance should be spent on the track practicing! Cliff Lett addressed this discussion years ago on the RC10.com site in the TC3 forum... his explanation was a little more in depth... so to spare you the technical jargon, i will just say, the car is designed right. As far as torque steer goes, a properly tweaked TC3 will drive straight and smooth with a freakin 6 turn in it... it all comes down to practice and a well prepped car. Just ask Josh Cyrul... he'll tell ya!
- Dave

Boomer

The steering throw issue has been discussed many many times. DaveW - I am fairly quick and I use full lock on hairpins or certain other places. I know that I use it all the time on my Nitro.

I did grind the one hub with the fatter end back, down to the same as the other. It takes VERY little time and improves things quite a bit.

The knuckles and ball-studs are just poorly designed. There really isn't enough meat in there to hold the ball stud without it backing off after a while. I don't hit walls or boards and they back out fairly regularly. I count them as regular maintenance replacement and replace them about every month or so. Luckily they aren't too expensive.

I don't like aluminum since a: it bends and b: is expensive. If you bend/break an aluminum piece, it's gone. I realize that I could purchase one aluminum one for the price of three carbon pieces, but I'm comfortable with the carbon ones. . .call me crazy.

As far as the Assoc site goes - never trust a manufacturer's site to tell you anything but positive things about a car. According to Tamiya, their mini's are the best things out there! According to HPI, their Pro3 is a great car and has nothing wrong with it. According to Assoc, the original NTC3 tank had nothing wrong with it.

In any case - the car was originally designed for older electronics and, even then, the pros (TonyP, Barry, etc.) were putting weight on the right side (usually a quarter or two on the servo) to a: make weight and b: to balance things out. Now that they are using LRP Quantums (in many cases) and tiny receivers, they are moving the battery packs farther inside to help balance the car and to improve turn response. Things do change and the car hasn't had an update for years. I'm awaiting the next big mod! (btw, the battery pack mod WORKS. . .)

anyway - just some input.

Brian McGreevy

iTrader: (10)

Heh, now if you have a Warpspeed Demon or did the mod to the steering area like Josh did, you can run a NTC3 steering rack. Improves the steering quite a bit...

bubbles

Fasttrak

Actually, the Warpspeed is a TC3 unless you're referring to the chassis conversion for the Mission. I am sure that slipped right by you. Out of curiosity, what is a "warps--t"? The TC3 thread is one to encompass all things TC3, the thread for the Demon is specifically for the Demon conversions and mods. If you look back a bit there was a discussion here about Victors diff cases. Also curious why you find it necessary to attempt to slam Victors designs?

Brian McGreevy

iTrader: (10)

Bubbles, will you cut the crap and stop bashing warpspeed products. You have no idea how stupid and childish you sound.

Bubblestc3

I am very sorry about that axiom5b

at school aparentley i left my computer loged in to rctech and someone dicided to find out my password(dont know how) and they decided to bash warpspeed(dont know why)

i have already made this appology in the warpspeed forum, but i thought i should appologise here as well



sorry for the "bashing"

Intermision

No offense but I have heard that excuse a lot.

Bubblestc3

but I havent been on sience....

i think last night when i posted the novak thing

OleC

Hello everybody!

I have been looking around for the answer to a problem but haven't found anything conclusive...

Question:

I use the rear shock tower in the front. This limits the shock travel so I cut the shock ends (plastic eyelet-thing...).

This causes the piston to move further into the shock so now I have another problem:
I use Yokomo shock caps with bladders and these protrude (sp?) down into the shock a tiny bit. I am afraid that the piston will hit and puncture the bladders.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Should I raise the shock tower? (This would alter the camber link positions, not good). Should I just get the plastic shock caps with bleeder screws? (Please no! I like the Yok caps)

Any advice?

RBLove

iTrader: (90)

Try using the tie rod ends and cups off of the AE truck. Cut a little off of the cup and you will have the shock travel needed.

Horatio

Dave

That's a poor response dude - who says that I don't practice as much as my pal Craig Drescher?

Another thing - it still hasn't answered my question as to why the steering problem exists in the first place? Is it really designed into the car or do Associated just want you to think that it is?

Have you ever raced on a really tight, low grip circuit on control tyres? It doesn't sound like it! You could pop in your 6 turn motor, with all your many hours of practice - if you didn't have a decent steering lock on our track MOST of our juniors would whip you with an MVP or even a P2K;-) I don't mean that as an insult, it's just a fact!

In formula 1 for example (you don't get much faster than these) I'm sure you'll find that the drivers use virtually all their lock around Monacco. I can just imagine Ferrari technicians explaining to Michael Schumacher 'don't worry about the lack of lock to the left, you don't need it - the modification is prevent locking of your arms - just driver faster and you won't need more lock'

Cmon guys, you'll have to do better than that!! I'm still not convinced that Associated didn't make a minor tooling error.......