TC3 Forum
#6241
Ring gears
Originally posted by Johnnytc3
Are there replacement ring gears for the irs solid axle? i chipped a few teeth on mine and found out the diff ring gears dont fit.
Thanks
Are there replacement ring gears for the irs solid axle? i chipped a few teeth on mine and found out the diff ring gears dont fit.
Thanks
Peace and happy racing! Lem
#6242
TC3 Steering Lock Problem
zgeist:
You got pm. Thanks for your efforts in replying
Those cuda guys sure get grumpy quick
All other TC3 Drivers:
I had been discusssing with zgeist about the steering on the TC3 and how it has more lock to the right than it does to the left. zgeist told me that on the Associated forum, it was claimed that ' the Assymetric steering lock was a 'designed feature' to prevent the servo from becoming locked'. Hmmmmm.
The other 'explanations' have included that 'the feature is to help with the torque steer issue on the TC3'. ?
Decreasing the lock to the left would surely mak it MORE likely to stall/lock a servo - especially on budget radios where there is no no ATV/Rate adjustability.
Torque Steer is Torque Steer - messing with the lock aint going to change it!!
Racing a TC3 with Assymetric steering is a no-no on tight indoor circuits where you need lots of lock BOTH WAYS just to get round the track - let alone be quick. This especailly true when racing indoors on control tyres that aren't especially good - don't ask me how I know ;-)
I'm beginning to think that this is actually a production error and that Associated can't be assed to fix it! I'm hoping you guys will correct me on this though - that's why I'm here
I hope some one can solve this mystery..............
BTW, none of the Cuda guys could explain why their motors are on the wrong side........
You got pm. Thanks for your efforts in replying
Those cuda guys sure get grumpy quick
All other TC3 Drivers:
I had been discusssing with zgeist about the steering on the TC3 and how it has more lock to the right than it does to the left. zgeist told me that on the Associated forum, it was claimed that ' the Assymetric steering lock was a 'designed feature' to prevent the servo from becoming locked'. Hmmmmm.
The other 'explanations' have included that 'the feature is to help with the torque steer issue on the TC3'. ?
Decreasing the lock to the left would surely mak it MORE likely to stall/lock a servo - especially on budget radios where there is no no ATV/Rate adjustability.
Torque Steer is Torque Steer - messing with the lock aint going to change it!!
Racing a TC3 with Assymetric steering is a no-no on tight indoor circuits where you need lots of lock BOTH WAYS just to get round the track - let alone be quick. This especailly true when racing indoors on control tyres that aren't especially good - don't ask me how I know ;-)
I'm beginning to think that this is actually a production error and that Associated can't be assed to fix it! I'm hoping you guys will correct me on this though - that's why I'm here
I hope some one can solve this mystery..............
BTW, none of the Cuda guys could explain why their motors are on the wrong side........
#6243
BTW
On my TC3's, I applied the dremmel to the offending left c hub carrier to allow the same lock as to the right. It vastly improves the steering.
If you are thinking of doing the same GO EASY because if you remove too much material and increase the lock too much, you could cause increased wear to the drive-shafts due to the excessive lock!!!!!
On my TC3's, I applied the dremmel to the offending left c hub carrier to allow the same lock as to the right. It vastly improves the steering.
If you are thinking of doing the same GO EASY because if you remove too much material and increase the lock too much, you could cause increased wear to the drive-shafts due to the excessive lock!!!!!
#6244
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
BRAD: The Losi steering knuckles are a direct fit for the TC3 as mentioned before, and give you added steering throw. The Losi parts also change ackerman, the arm on the knuckle is shorter than the one on the standard TC3 steering hub. The REALLY good thing is that they dont rip out as easily as the standard TC3 parts. But i want to point out... any part will break if you hit the wall hard enough. Megatech makes a NICE set of aluminum steering hubs for the TC3, but ballstuds will break off into the aluminum if you arent careful. Good luck!
Horatio: If you are using full steering lock on your TC3, you are going too slow. Im not saying this as an insult, but fast cars utilize very little steering throw. Its just a fact. Time spent grinding your hubs for "perfect" left and right balance should be spent on the track practicing! Cliff Lett addressed this discussion years ago on the RC10.com site in the TC3 forum... his explanation was a little more in depth... so to spare you the technical jargon, i will just say, the car is designed right. As far as torque steer goes, a properly tweaked TC3 will drive straight and smooth with a freakin 6 turn in it... it all comes down to practice and a well prepped car. Just ask Josh Cyrul... he'll tell ya!
- Dave
Horatio: If you are using full steering lock on your TC3, you are going too slow. Im not saying this as an insult, but fast cars utilize very little steering throw. Its just a fact. Time spent grinding your hubs for "perfect" left and right balance should be spent on the track practicing! Cliff Lett addressed this discussion years ago on the RC10.com site in the TC3 forum... his explanation was a little more in depth... so to spare you the technical jargon, i will just say, the car is designed right. As far as torque steer goes, a properly tweaked TC3 will drive straight and smooth with a freakin 6 turn in it... it all comes down to practice and a well prepped car. Just ask Josh Cyrul... he'll tell ya!
- Dave
#6245
The steering throw issue has been discussed many many times. DaveW - I am fairly quick and I use full lock on hairpins or certain other places. I know that I use it all the time on my Nitro.
I did grind the one hub with the fatter end back, down to the same as the other. It takes VERY little time and improves things quite a bit.
The knuckles and ball-studs are just poorly designed. There really isn't enough meat in there to hold the ball stud without it backing off after a while. I don't hit walls or boards and they back out fairly regularly. I count them as regular maintenance replacement and replace them about every month or so. Luckily they aren't too expensive.
I don't like aluminum since a: it bends and b: is expensive. If you bend/break an aluminum piece, it's gone. I realize that I could purchase one aluminum one for the price of three carbon pieces, but I'm comfortable with the carbon ones. . .call me crazy.
As far as the Assoc site goes - never trust a manufacturer's site to tell you anything but positive things about a car. According to Tamiya, their mini's are the best things out there! According to HPI, their Pro3 is a great car and has nothing wrong with it. According to Assoc, the original NTC3 tank had nothing wrong with it.
In any case - the car was originally designed for older electronics and, even then, the pros (TonyP, Barry, etc.) were putting weight on the right side (usually a quarter or two on the servo) to a: make weight and b: to balance things out. Now that they are using LRP Quantums (in many cases) and tiny receivers, they are moving the battery packs farther inside to help balance the car and to improve turn response. Things do change and the car hasn't had an update for years. I'm awaiting the next big mod! (btw, the battery pack mod WORKS. . .)
anyway - just some input.
I did grind the one hub with the fatter end back, down to the same as the other. It takes VERY little time and improves things quite a bit.
The knuckles and ball-studs are just poorly designed. There really isn't enough meat in there to hold the ball stud without it backing off after a while. I don't hit walls or boards and they back out fairly regularly. I count them as regular maintenance replacement and replace them about every month or so. Luckily they aren't too expensive.
I don't like aluminum since a: it bends and b: is expensive. If you bend/break an aluminum piece, it's gone. I realize that I could purchase one aluminum one for the price of three carbon pieces, but I'm comfortable with the carbon ones. . .call me crazy.
As far as the Assoc site goes - never trust a manufacturer's site to tell you anything but positive things about a car. According to Tamiya, their mini's are the best things out there! According to HPI, their Pro3 is a great car and has nothing wrong with it. According to Assoc, the original NTC3 tank had nothing wrong with it.
In any case - the car was originally designed for older electronics and, even then, the pros (TonyP, Barry, etc.) were putting weight on the right side (usually a quarter or two on the servo) to a: make weight and b: to balance things out. Now that they are using LRP Quantums (in many cases) and tiny receivers, they are moving the battery packs farther inside to help balance the car and to improve turn response. Things do change and the car hasn't had an update for years. I'm awaiting the next big mod! (btw, the battery pack mod WORKS. . .)
anyway - just some input.
Last edited by Boomer; 09-29-2003 at 03:53 PM.
#6247
Last edited by bubbles; 09-29-2003 at 08:40 PM.
#6248
Tech Regular
Originally posted by bubbles
and one would want a demon chassis...
WHY?
(keep in mind that this is the TC3 thread, and not a place for warps--t)
and davew, well put!
and one would want a demon chassis...
WHY?
(keep in mind that this is the TC3 thread, and not a place for warps--t)
and davew, well put!
Actually, the Warpspeed is a TC3 unless you're referring to the chassis conversion for the Mission. I am sure that slipped right by you. Out of curiosity, what is a "warps--t"? The TC3 thread is one to encompass all things TC3, the thread for the Demon is specifically for the Demon conversions and mods. If you look back a bit there was a discussion here about Victors diff cases. Also curious why you find it necessary to attempt to slam Victors designs?
#6250
Tech Fanatic
I am very sorry about that axiom5b
at school aparentley i left my computer loged in to rctech and someone dicided to find out my password(dont know how) and they decided to bash warpspeed(dont know why)
i have already made this appology in the warpspeed forum, but i thought i should appologise here as well
sorry for the "bashing"
at school aparentley i left my computer loged in to rctech and someone dicided to find out my password(dont know how) and they decided to bash warpspeed(dont know why)
i have already made this appology in the warpspeed forum, but i thought i should appologise here as well
sorry for the "bashing"
#6251
No offense but I have heard that excuse a lot.
#6252
Tech Fanatic
but I havent been on sience....
i think last night when i posted the novak thing
i think last night when i posted the novak thing
#6253
Shock tower vs. shock travel.
Hello everybody!
I have been looking around for the answer to a problem but haven't found anything conclusive...
Question:
I use the rear shock tower in the front. This limits the shock travel so I cut the shock ends (plastic eyelet-thing...).
This causes the piston to move further into the shock so now I have another problem:
I use Yokomo shock caps with bladders and these protrude (sp?) down into the shock a tiny bit. I am afraid that the piston will hit and puncture the bladders.
Does anyone have any suggestions? Should I raise the shock tower? (This would alter the camber link positions, not good). Should I just get the plastic shock caps with bleeder screws? (Please no! I like the Yok caps)
Any advice?
I have been looking around for the answer to a problem but haven't found anything conclusive...
Question:
I use the rear shock tower in the front. This limits the shock travel so I cut the shock ends (plastic eyelet-thing...).
This causes the piston to move further into the shock so now I have another problem:
I use Yokomo shock caps with bladders and these protrude (sp?) down into the shock a tiny bit. I am afraid that the piston will hit and puncture the bladders.
Does anyone have any suggestions? Should I raise the shock tower? (This would alter the camber link positions, not good). Should I just get the plastic shock caps with bleeder screws? (Please no! I like the Yok caps)
Any advice?
#6254
Try using the tie rod ends and cups off of the AE truck. Cut a little off of the cup and you will have the shock travel needed.
#6255
Originally posted by DaveW
Horatio: If you are using full steering lock on your TC3, you are going too slow. Im not saying this as an insult, but fast cars utilize very little steering throw. Its just a fact. Time spent grinding your hubs for "perfect" left and right balance should be spent on the track practicing! Cliff Lett addressed this discussion years ago on the RC10.com site in the TC3 forum... his explanation was a little more in depth... so to spare you the technical jargon, i will just say, the car is designed right. As far as torque steer goes, a properly tweaked TC3 will drive straight and smooth with a freakin 6 turn in it... it all comes down to practice and a well prepped car. Just ask Josh Cyrul... he'll tell ya!
- Dave
Horatio: If you are using full steering lock on your TC3, you are going too slow. Im not saying this as an insult, but fast cars utilize very little steering throw. Its just a fact. Time spent grinding your hubs for "perfect" left and right balance should be spent on the track practicing! Cliff Lett addressed this discussion years ago on the RC10.com site in the TC3 forum... his explanation was a little more in depth... so to spare you the technical jargon, i will just say, the car is designed right. As far as torque steer goes, a properly tweaked TC3 will drive straight and smooth with a freakin 6 turn in it... it all comes down to practice and a well prepped car. Just ask Josh Cyrul... he'll tell ya!
- Dave
That's a poor response dude - who says that I don't practice as much as my pal Craig Drescher?
Another thing - it still hasn't answered my question as to why the steering problem exists in the first place? Is it really designed into the car or do Associated just want you to think that it is?
Have you ever raced on a really tight, low grip circuit on control tyres? It doesn't sound like it! You could pop in your 6 turn motor, with all your many hours of practice - if you didn't have a decent steering lock on our track MOST of our juniors would whip you with an MVP or even a P2K;-) I don't mean that as an insult, it's just a fact!
In formula 1 for example (you don't get much faster than these) I'm sure you'll find that the drivers use virtually all their lock around Monacco. I can just imagine Ferrari technicians explaining to Michael Schumacher 'don't worry about the lack of lock to the left, you don't need it - the modification is prevent locking of your arms - just driver faster and you won't need more lock'
Cmon guys, you'll have to do better than that!! I'm still not convinced that Associated didn't make a minor tooling error.......