TC3 Forum
#5311
Tech Fanatic
The new material IS BETTER.....
We tested ALOT of different ones and it is better then the original...end of story....LOL
BTW whats up Fred?
Cya at the races,
Barry
We tested ALOT of different ones and it is better then the original...end of story....LOL
BTW whats up Fred?
Cya at the races,
Barry
#5312
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
There it is boys and girls, no need to ask anymore. If anyone would know it would be Barry. Although I think it may be too late, for the sake of saying it anyway, listen very closely all, I am not saying or implying that the new material is not better than the old. I KNOW AE would not go through the trouble to test then sell a new product if they did not feel that it was the best product for the racer. Anyone who races with me a Socal knows why (not because of AE). I NEVER said the gears strip easily, nor do I appreciate my words being taken out of context. Anyone who knows me and races with/around me knows I am Pro AE. Please don't misinterpet my posts. What up Barry, see ya this weekend!!!
Last edited by Fred Hubbard; 06-11-2003 at 07:26 PM.
#5315
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
Originally posted by Axiom5B
Barry, do you have to shim the new gears different? If so in what way?
Barry, do you have to shim the new gears different? If so in what way?
Last edited by Fred Hubbard; 06-12-2003 at 08:57 AM.
#5317
Tech Regular
MabMan.......change the bearings in the diff and the thrust bearing. Try the bearings first.
#5320
Tech Fanatic
Ack! Need more on power steering!
Hey guys, I've finally realized that my car needs more on power steering after a few days of racing, I was just paying attention to my line and I figured my car was set-up well, it's set up good, but I think it can be better. I race on carpet with cs-27's on all 4 corners. I have way to much on power push so when I enter the corner I'm fine because I'm usually off power and than when I get on power my car gets way off the pipes so my line is like a foot and a half off the right line. Here's my set up:
Caster - 4º
Kick up - 0º
Front toe - .5º out
Rear toe - 2º in
anti squat - 2º
Camber (front/rear) - -2.5º/-2º
Ride height (front/rear) - 5mm/5mm
wheel base is adjusted to shortest position
springs (front/rear) - Red/gold
Internal shock limiters (front/rear) - 4/2 (standard set up from manuel)
Front shock on outer most hole
Rear shock mounted on middle hole
all the bottoms of the shocks are mounted in the standard position
Associated 40 weight shock oil all the way around
#2 pistons all the way around
take off tires all the way around
TQ Blue traction compound, 75% on front tires and 100% on rear tires.
differentials used in front and back
tie rod positions (front) - ball stud is mounted on lower/inner hole
tie rod positions (rear) - inner ball stud is mounted on upper/inner hole. the outer ball stud is mounted on the outer hole.
Any ideas that people have to get rid of this on power push would be very helpful. Do you think that moving up one tooth on the pinion gear would help get rid of the push by reducing the acceleration speed? I know that wouldn't be able to get rid of all the push, but does anyone think it might help? Thanks for any help.
Caster - 4º
Kick up - 0º
Front toe - .5º out
Rear toe - 2º in
anti squat - 2º
Camber (front/rear) - -2.5º/-2º
Ride height (front/rear) - 5mm/5mm
wheel base is adjusted to shortest position
springs (front/rear) - Red/gold
Internal shock limiters (front/rear) - 4/2 (standard set up from manuel)
Front shock on outer most hole
Rear shock mounted on middle hole
all the bottoms of the shocks are mounted in the standard position
Associated 40 weight shock oil all the way around
#2 pistons all the way around
take off tires all the way around
TQ Blue traction compound, 75% on front tires and 100% on rear tires.
differentials used in front and back
tie rod positions (front) - ball stud is mounted on lower/inner hole
tie rod positions (rear) - inner ball stud is mounted on upper/inner hole. the outer ball stud is mounted on the outer hole.
Any ideas that people have to get rid of this on power push would be very helpful. Do you think that moving up one tooth on the pinion gear would help get rid of the push by reducing the acceleration speed? I know that wouldn't be able to get rid of all the push, but does anyone think it might help? Thanks for any help.
#5322
Tech Fanatic
What do you mean by that?
#5324
Re: Ack! Need more on power steering!
Originally posted by racerdx6
Hey guys, I've finally realized that my car needs more on power steering after a few days of racing, I was just paying attention to my line and I figured my car was set-up well, it's set up good, but I think it can be better. I race on carpet with cs-27's on all 4 corners. I have way to much on power push so when I enter the corner I'm fine because I'm usually off power and than when I get on power my car gets way off the pipes so my line is like a foot and a half off the right line. Here's my set up:
Caster - 4º
Kick up - 0º
Front toe - .5º out
Rear toe - 2º in
anti squat - 2º
Camber (front/rear) - -2.5º/-2º
Ride height (front/rear) - 5mm/5mm
wheel base is adjusted to shortest position
springs (front/rear) - Red/gold
Internal shock limiters (front/rear) - 4/2 (standard set up from manuel)
Front shock on outer most hole
Rear shock mounted on middle hole
all the bottoms of the shocks are mounted in the standard position
Associated 40 weight shock oil all the way around
#2 pistons all the way around
take off tires all the way around
TQ Blue traction compound, 75% on front tires and 100% on rear tires.
differentials used in front and back
tie rod positions (front) - ball stud is mounted on lower/inner hole
tie rod positions (rear) - inner ball stud is mounted on upper/inner hole. the outer ball stud is mounted on the outer hole.
Any ideas that people have to get rid of this on power push would be very helpful. Do you think that moving up one tooth on the pinion gear would help get rid of the push by reducing the acceleration speed? I know that wouldn't be able to get rid of all the push, but does anyone think it might help? Thanks for any help.
Hey guys, I've finally realized that my car needs more on power steering after a few days of racing, I was just paying attention to my line and I figured my car was set-up well, it's set up good, but I think it can be better. I race on carpet with cs-27's on all 4 corners. I have way to much on power push so when I enter the corner I'm fine because I'm usually off power and than when I get on power my car gets way off the pipes so my line is like a foot and a half off the right line. Here's my set up:
Caster - 4º
Kick up - 0º
Front toe - .5º out
Rear toe - 2º in
anti squat - 2º
Camber (front/rear) - -2.5º/-2º
Ride height (front/rear) - 5mm/5mm
wheel base is adjusted to shortest position
springs (front/rear) - Red/gold
Internal shock limiters (front/rear) - 4/2 (standard set up from manuel)
Front shock on outer most hole
Rear shock mounted on middle hole
all the bottoms of the shocks are mounted in the standard position
Associated 40 weight shock oil all the way around
#2 pistons all the way around
take off tires all the way around
TQ Blue traction compound, 75% on front tires and 100% on rear tires.
differentials used in front and back
tie rod positions (front) - ball stud is mounted on lower/inner hole
tie rod positions (rear) - inner ball stud is mounted on upper/inner hole. the outer ball stud is mounted on the outer hole.
Any ideas that people have to get rid of this on power push would be very helpful. Do you think that moving up one tooth on the pinion gear would help get rid of the push by reducing the acceleration speed? I know that wouldn't be able to get rid of all the push, but does anyone think it might help? Thanks for any help.
#5325
i have never run rubbers on carpet, but you can decrease front droop-add internal limiters to front shocks. for carpet i have always run my front diffs pretty locked down with the rear diff medium tightness range. with this set up the front end will pull harder out of the corner.